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help installing nut on brake booster pump

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Seymour1, Apr 28, 2024.

  1. Seymour1

    Seymour1 Junior Member

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    I managed to remove my 2010 Prius master cylinder. Now I am removing the booster pump. The 10mm nut on the end of the pump is a problem for me. It is the nut closer to the firewall. I broke the nut loose and I can get only one finger on the nut to unscrew it, but not hold it. Maybe I have big hands. I was about to unscrew it and hold a magnet close by when it falls. Then I thought about installing the nut later. I removed the nut for the nearby wire harness bracket, but that did not help. Youtubes do not show how it is done.
    Any suggestions or ideas?
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Not sure luckily I haven't carried a gen 3 to this repair generally I would just undo the nut with the one finger and let it fall I have plenty of 10 mm nuts if we can even get something back up there to replace it I guess once you're got the unit off you can figure it out for the return with it sitting out and looking at the hole I guess but everything about this particular car is quite painstaking time-consuming seemingly ill thought out but oh well
     
  3. Seymour1

    Seymour1 Junior Member

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    Thanks. I did get it out and surprisingly, I did not drop the 2 nuts. I do not look forward to intalling it. Maybe I can push the pump to the left and that will give me maybe 1/4" more room. Youtube makes it sound easy. They do not show them doing it.
     
  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Luddite

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    Can you get the nut on a socket, or socket with extension, and get it started back on thus? If so, put a small strip or two of masking tape into the socket first, enough that you need to jam the nut to get it into the socket, and it's held securely.
     
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  5. Seymour1

    Seymour1 Junior Member

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    Thank you for your reply.
    The problem is getting my fingers onto the nut. I would have the same problem getting my fingers on a socket. There is no room for an extension or rachet. I removed the pump, finally. Youtube states to use a crowbar to shift the pump to the left to unhook from the mounting pins. There is a bracket blocking movement to the left. I had to use enough force to flex the bracket. I will bend it before installing the new pump so that it will be out of the way.
    I was surprised that others have not posted about this difficulty. I will post a comment on any tricks putting it back together.
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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  7. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Nice little offset wrench Jesus yeah I guess this is what it's coming to love it.
     
  8. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I have a handful of very strong magnets that I keep in the shop. They're about 3/4" square and strong as H. Strong enough that I can put them on a socket extension and the magnetism will travel to the socket and keep the nut stuck inside. For installing, I just pack some pieces of paper towel into the socket first so the nut stays at the opening.
     
  9. Australian Energy

    Australian Energy New Member

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  10. douglasjre

    douglasjre Senior Member

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    Magnetize a flat blade screwdriver, dangle nut w screwdriver, slide finger to rotate nut while tool dangles nut and pushes it in desired direction
     
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Luddite

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  12. Seymour1

    Seymour1 Junior Member

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    Old part number on new pump.
    Thanks. Useful advice. I will magnetize a screwdriver.
    I opened the boxes with the new brake parts. I found that the part number stamped into the pump casting is 47070-47050. This is the old part number. It was superseeded by 47070-47060. There is no part number on the label. My invoice lists the new number and the new number appears on the outside of the box. The Toyota dealer said that they sent me the new part but Toyota continues to stamp the old part number on the casting. This is surprising. The main visible difference is that the new label is white while the old one is yellow. Both labels are orientated sideways.
     
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You should be aware that a Toyota part will often have a number stamped on it somewhere in nnnnn-nnnnn form that looks just like a part number but is not the part number.

    When I had an old Ford, they did the same thing. I had many a trip to the parts counter with a part in my hand saying "I need this part number right here" and poor Randy would have to tell me "no you don't", and go look up the right number.
     
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  14. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Mendel I have an electricians version of that same finger magnet It's actually quite old but that would be a good thing to have working on some of these 2010s forward.
     
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  15. Seymour1

    Seymour1 Junior Member

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    I dropped a rubber mount. Then I took the rubber mount from the left hand end of my old pump. And dropped it, too. I spent 90 minutes trying to find either one. I bought a large hand mirror, jacked up the car on both sides, removed one wheel and used the flashlight and mirror to be sure that it was not in the grass. I dropped a wad of paper to see where it ended up, but it landed in the grass. Then, I used an air hose with a 12" long nozzle to blow air everywhere I could. I think it fell into a black hole. I finally found a rubber mount under the steering box. There is a bowl shape there where the contents cannot be seen. So, if you drop something, remove the driver's side tire and check in the bowl.
    Tip #2- When removing brake booster and pump, wrap an old towel around it. I did not. see image
    When inserting the pump into mounts, the pump wanted to push left. I don't know why. And when I pushed it back, a rubber mount fell out leading to the above problem. I finally blocked it from going to the left with a block of wood. I used wire to tie things out of the way. See images. I almost decided to remove the coolant hose under the EGR cooler, but did not.
    I was able to squeeze my hands around cables and use a finger from each hand to get the 10mm nut nearest the wirewall started. My arm is bruised, but I bruise easily. I got the other nut started by using a AWG12 wire bent so that I could place the tip of the wire (with nut) onto the end of the stud on the pump. I used a long screwdriver to rotate the nut. It took patience and luck. See images
    So, tomorrow, the booster installation.
    Thanks for your replys and advice.
     

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  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Luddite

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    What a saga! (y)
     
  17. Seymour1

    Seymour1 Junior Member

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    The master cylinder was easier to install. I made one mistake; there is a bracket that supports the red brake line next to the M/S. The bracket is bolted to the M/S. I removed the bolt holding the brake line to the bracket instead of removing the bolt holding the bracket onto the master cylinder. Installing the wrong bolt was difficult.
    Now, I will bleed the brakes. I am buying Windows XP 32 bit to downgrade my laptop.
     
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Luddite

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    A lot buy a second laptop, just a cheapie if possible, and ensure it has no internet access, just in case there's something spurious in the pirated Techstream.

    I wonder, would the car be safely drivable, say to a dealership to have them do the Techstream work? Not sure.
     
  19. douglasjre

    douglasjre Senior Member

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    How do you know that's a genuine Toyota part
     
  20. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I'm doubtful that 47070-47050 "is the old part number". I could be convinced if somebody shows an official part catalog entry for it, or for 47070-46060 where 47070-47050 is shown as a superseded old number.

    Until then, given Toyota's knack for stamping numbers on parts that are not the part numbers, I might just chalk it up to that, and say the actual part number they sent you is the one shown on the box and your invoice, as long as you got it from a legit Toyota dealer.
     
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