When I went to start the car, I got a big red warning triangle on the heads-up display. After a couple of tries, I got it started. Later in the day, after a very short trip, I didn't even get a display. I heard clicking from under the left front area of the windsheild, a relay of some sort. I turned the headlight selector switch to "off" and got the car to run. I hadn't driven the car in a week, and today was the coldest day this winter. It is a 2007 Prius, so the battery is more than 3 years old. I am 95% sure the 12-volt battery is the issue. Quick advice: should I just have it replaced? (I'm pretty sure the answer will be yes, but I'm looking for some advice from people who know). Also, we plan a long trip about 2 weeks from now, so I need to act quickly. thanks, Harry
There are many threads on how to test the battery to see if it is bad. 3 years is a bit young for the battery to be dying, but not unheard of, esp. if it was ever allowed to drain completely in the past. So, while it may be the 12v causing your issues I would test it first. If any suggestion that it is getting weak I'd replace it.
Thanks, efusco. 3 years seems a bit early, especially since I live in New York, a colder climate. I'm used to car and motorcycle batteries lasting 5 or 6 years. I'll have my Toyota dealer test it. I'll pick up some jumper cables in the meantime... Harry
Instead of jumper cables consider something more useful/versatile.. http://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B000EJV5N8?tag=priuschatcom-20 higher cost, but you don't need to depend upon someone else to jump you, and you have the inflator and safety light as well. I use the inflator all the time and have had to jump start my wife's car with it several times.
I got an intresting tidbit for you and think it might be of interest. 2006 Prius was sent down island to me for a diagnosis (shops up island were scared of the cost to fix this car) The car 12 volts battery would have to be boosted/charged to get the car too start and run. Then this car would stall and eventually endup on the side of the road. Replacing the part to fix this car was unholy expensive, diagnostic, and R/R of the part, wow he got a $6000 bill for the repair. Now, if I were you, be prepared for the worst because this type of car is not cheap to fix. Pray u have warrenty; the equity gained in fuel not consumed was immediately gobbled up in that one repair. Now, instead of asking me to telll you what the cause of the problem was. I have to remind you the owner paid the money for the diagnostic opinion and would not appreciate me telling the world what I found out about his car. It is running fine now, but this configuration of car will be a booon to the electronics /repair industry. Thanks for buying them guys. Same is said about the other manufactures. I came along at the right time...
carelectronicsguy, Thanks for the concern. I have an extended warranty on my car, good until 100,000 miles or 2012. (I have just under 30K miles on it now). No expensive repairs for me... It's probably just the 12v battery, but I'll let the Toyota dealer run some diagnostics, as well as check the 12v battery. Harry
Wow, talk about FUD. What was wrong with that 2006? How many miles did it has? Why wasn't it covered under the hybrid component warranty? Can you explain to us since you did the repair?
I'll bet this guy was a physician in a previous lifetime. This sounds like doctor - patient confidentiality.
I can see the value of a unit like that. If you park at an airport for 2 or 3 weeks, it would be nice to know you could start the car. My local Wal-Mart has the smaller version of that, the 300 amp model, fairly cheap. The battery is smaller, 9 amp-hours versus 19 for the bigger unit, but I don't think it would take much juice to boot up a Prius. Harry
If the owner had to pay for the repair the car had extremely high mileage, extremely high mileage & abuse, or was ripped off by a pro.
Harry the OP needs to install a new 12V battery. Sounds like the inverter failed, but was not covered under the hybrid system warranty. If my guess is correct, I'm not sure why it would cost so much to diagnose. DTCs exist that report low 12V bus levels, and it is quite easy to measure voltage on the 12VDC bus with a digital multimeter, when the Prius is READY. The good news is that if you can DIY the repair, you can buy a salvage inverter for around US$800 or so. MSRP for a new inverter is around US$3,600 so to be charged CDN$6K seems excessive.
That was my first guess too but want to know from him without giving out ideas. A cheap way to prevent it is replace the inverter coolant pump. I will be following that advice and change my pump soon. I am still tuning my coilovers to the feel I like and the getting an alignment done.
You can test the 12V battery yourself, either with a voltmeter or the built-in no-tools procedure here: http://priuschat.com/forums/newbie-forum/73400-weird-stuff-happening-mpgs-dropping-test-battery.html
