I returned from an 11 day trip with a neighbor having left my key in my car the night I picked it up. The key would not unlock the passenger doors or the hatch. After a 10 minute drive with the key in my pocket it worked. The temperature, according to the car, was 39 degrees F. Do low temperatures affect the battery in the key? Has anyone else experienced this problem?
All batteries are affected by temperature. When you say "The key would not unlock the passenger doors or the hatch", what exactly do you mean? In other words, how were you trying to use the key fob? Tom
Probably just the normal disabling of the proximity function when the car is not used for a while (a week?). The car transmits a "anybody out there?" message every second or so when the proximity function is enabled. This consumes a small amount of 12V battery power, which is ok over a few days, but could cause a dead battery if allowed to continue for weeks. So the system automatically shuts down after a week or so. Once you start the car, the system resumes the proximity function.
What was the reasoning for eliminating the manual switch for this function that the Gen II had? Owners not using it, or (more likely), cost saving?
I pressed the unlock symbol on the key twice as I normally do to unlock the passenger doors or rear hatch. I did this multiple times. Nothing happened. Passenger doors had to be unlocked from inside the car.
Check your user's manual, page 49 (or there abouts - I don't own a Prius, only have a PDF to review) about "Battery-saving function", in particular, "If the entry function has not been used for 9 days or more, the vehicle cannot be unlocked by a door other than the driver's door" - but this would apply to the "Entry Function". You state you tried pressing the button the remote instead. This sounds like some kind of "bug" left-over from this feature and the fob?
My guess would be that too many people complained that the system wasn't working, while in fact the switch had been turned off. Solution? Remove the switch. Betcha the function is still there but it's just not connected. Comparing the Gen2 vs Gen3 wiring diagrams will probably show an unused pin on the Gen3 that was used for the switch on the Gen2. The switch is called the "Key Cancel Switch", and is connected to the Certification ECU on pin S11-25. Gen2 documentation is part of the "Door Lock" description.
This disable is now automatic, so it is not necessary for saving the 12V battery. Likewise many people accidentally hit the switch and then thought their car was broken. This problem is not related to the SKS or the auto-shutoff of the SKS. It could be related to the state of the fob battery and the exposure to the cold. Tom
I think it may be related to the auto-shutoff which will specifically disable all doors except the driver's, and may in fact be a bug in the system. I wonder if anyone else had been able to duplicate this - do not interact with the car for >9 days and then attempt to unlock with a fob (left at home to remove the temperature issue).
Well I could leave my key outside tonight to duplicate the temperature issue and check it in the morning but after reading the "Replacement Key Pricey" thread I've decided to treat the thing like gold!
This is true with the SKS function, but I would be surprised if it disabled the fob buttons. At the worst, you should be able to pull on the door handle to reawaken the system, then use the fob. Tom
Thanks for those replies. Personally, I would always turn my system off manually on my old 2004, whenever I parked my car say in an airport lot or any other away from home location overnite or longer. Not having to wait for the system to shut itself off after nine days seems to be an advantage. Perhaps the best thing would be to have that automatic function and still have a manual switch. After all, that is basically the way the headlites work, right? Although the headlites shut themselves off much sooner for obvious reason.