Steering Wheel Clocking Problem?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Susan4ET, Nov 4, 2010.

  1. Susan4ET

    Susan4ET Member

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    The steering wheel mysteriously clocked itself slightly to the right after changing out the standard tires to same sized studded tires for winter. This has never happened before and I was unaware of any alignment/wheel clocking problems up to driving into the shop to swap out the tires on the wheels.

    Air pressures were all good and even all around--but I don't know if they were even before the change-out. Also, the wheels were balanced and the drive afterwards revealed no pulling either way or vibrations. On top of that neither the tire store nor my Toyota dealer had any explanation(s).

    I'm only guessing at this point that prior to studded tires there might have been a clocking error so slight it was not perceptible in over 5K miles and with the studded tires now it is perceptible.

    Q: Is it possible under my circumstances for a different set of tires on the same wheels to make this sort of difference?

    Thanks.
     
  2. dick_larimore

    dick_larimore Member

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    When you describe a "clocking" problem, I assume that you mean the steering wheel is no longer "straigh ahead" when the car is going down a straight road. Instead it is a little off in the clockwise direction.

    Also, the tires previously on the vehicle were removed from the OEM rims and the snow tires installed on the same rims.

    If you have directional snow tires (tires that must be mounted to rotate in a specific direction), check to see that the tire shop put the tires on the correct side of the car. These types of tires clearly show the correct rotation with some kind of arrows on the side wall. Failure to rotate the tires in the correct direction could possibly cause a slight pull in one direction.

    Second, you will need to evaluate the change in steering wheel position of several different roads to make sure that there is a consistent steering wheel position change.
     
  3. Susan4ET

    Susan4ET Member

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    Clocking here is relative to the steering wheel position and a clock face. 12 o'clock means the steering wheel is centered. In this case when the car appears to be running straight the wheel is clocked at maybe 12:01.

    Yes, the studded tires were mounted to the same rims as the stock Toyota tires were. And the studded tire rotation marks are correct--right side shows cw rotation--left side shows ccw rotation.

    You used a term 'pull' that I purposefully did not use. There is no obvious pulling. When the car is tracking straight and the wheel is at around 12:01 and I take my hands off the wheel the car does not pull off in either direction. Of course something might have been almost 'imperceptible' at this point. I'm thinking that if there is no apparent pulling the chances of there being an out of tolerance alignment error is unlikely.

    I used several different roads and different lanes where the slight banking for water runnoff was to the left and to the right--no difference. Of note where it was perceptible that the road was turning slightly to the left in one case the wheel appeared clocked to 12 (no minute after).

    This was not on a whim after picking up the car but something I noticed immediately when I was on the first straight stretch of road. When I take the car in Tuesday I do hope there will be a good explanation but so far no one has any.

    My best bet at this point is that the alignment may prove to be just within tolerance and/or the wheel clocked to 12:001 to be imperceptible before where the studded tires now offer a slight enough different friction to the road that the wheel clocks enough to become perceptible?

    I'm having it checked at the Toyota dealer because if something is found out of tolerance or the wheel simply needs to be clocked to 12 it will be warranty...unless Toyota can clearly show/demonstrate some 'wear or tear' that caused the problem--even if initally impreceptible. They will also have an opportunity to chase down one or more front(?) passenger side vibrations/noises.

    I've driven this Prius over 6K miles at all low and high speed limits and that's why I'm now concerned about seeing this clocking error for the first time. I find it very hard to believe the error was there all along--yet there is no explanation from anyone why changing to studded tires would change the wheels clock.
     
  4. GrumpyCabbie

    GrumpyCabbie Senior Member

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    I think it's a Prius problem. Might has done it and the dealers say there is nothing to be done!

    The steering wheel sits about half an inch to the right when going straight.
     
  5. xs650

    xs650 Senior Member

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    The Toyota shop manual gives detailed instructions on measuring the clocking and gives the shop simians detailed instructions on how to adjust it.

    It is adjusted by adjusting the tie rod ends.


    1/2 inch is probably not worth chasing, but it can be corrected quite easily by a competent alignment shop.
     
  6. tumbleweed

    tumbleweed Senior Member

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    Agree with xs650, it can be adjusted by a slight change to the toe setting. However, if steering wheel position is changed much the steering position sensor (used for VSC) should be re-zeroed and that probably requires the use of tech stream software, at least it did when I had my Gen2 done.

    If it were me I would have the alignment checked/adjusted, steering no longer centered could possibly indicate that something has changed which might increase tire wear.
     
  7. Susan4ET

    Susan4ET Member

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    1/2"? Holy smoke...you need to find another dealer! My 2007 was off and the dealer clocked it properly under warranty. I expect the same now unless they can prove wear and tear caused an out of tolerance condition--in which case I will grumble and pay for it.
     
  8. Susan4ET

    Susan4ET Member

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    Status... Much to my surprise when the studded tires were installed the steering wheel clocking didn't change back to the neutral position. What is funny (ha-ha) is the 2007 Prius only need an initial re-clocking and then it was fine for three years of switching back and forth between normal and studded tires on the same rims. Now it looks like the initial clocking of the wheel was correct. Damn.

    BTW, there is a curb in Portland that is just the right height that I have hit twice now very gently where the front and now (second time) the right side plastic wheel cover edges have been chewed and damaged by the curb cement. My thought is that the tire is too low a profile to keep the wheel away from the curb enough.
     
  9. xs650

    xs650 Senior Member

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    You need to get a wheel alignment with particular attention paid to front toe and steering wheel position. Also need to stop hitting curbs unless you want to repeat the alignment.:D

    The steering wheel is centered by adjusting the same two tie rod adjusters that are used to set the front toe.
     
  10. Susan4ET

    Susan4ET Member

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    Unfortunately if touching a curb lightly enough to only damage the edge of the wheel cover only is enough to set off front toe alignment then the 2010 Prius has a serious alignment design problem. In both cases driving the car afterwards resulted in no detectable pulling in either direction. The car appears to track perfectly for long stretches. But, all the same, I'm coming up on the 15,000 mile check and will have the wheel clocked again. No doubt they will want to recheck the whole alignment before they clock the wheel. And for the record, I drive the car at high speeds sometime (70-75) and can detect no vibrations throughout the speed range and when I had the tires changed out to my studs there was no abnormal tire wear pattern. It strikes me as being overly sensitive and baffling as it has others regarding just what is going on.
     
  11. pjksr02

    pjksr02 Active Member

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    Has your 12-Volt battery ever been disconnected? It sounds to me like your "steering wheel neutral point" is not at 12:00...
     
  12. Susan4ET

    Susan4ET Member

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    Wow... Are you serious? I've never heard of this before. Are you saying that the steering wheel neutral point is an electrical adjustment and not strickly mechanical?

    As to whether the 12 volt battery has been disconnected ever--I can't say. If routine maintenance doesn't require its disconnection then it shouldn't have been disconnected.

    Does disconnection throw off the steering wheel centering if 'something' wasn't set properly to begin with?

    Interesting...
     
  13. pjksr02

    pjksr02 Active Member

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    Not exactly sure about this one. The power steering system is complex!

    First thing to rule out is differences in tire inflation and uneven tire wear.
     
  14. xs650

    xs650 Senior Member

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    Centering the steering wheel is a mechanical adjustment done at the tie rod ends. Once that is done, there is an electrical adjustment that should be made so the computer knows where the new center is.

    Disconnecting the battery doesn't change the electrical steering calibration.
     
  15. Susan4ET

    Susan4ET Member

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    So...if all mechanical alignment and wheel centering is done within tolerances would this 'electrical adjustment', if not properly done produce or cause the wheel to move off center slightly (or to any degree) when tracking straight down a road? If you maintain this straight track and come to a stop without touching the wheel would it actually center itself when the car stopped? What does the computer have to do with it at all if it is mechanical? We are not talking about steering by wire. Is this electrical centering just for the 'black box' record?

    I know that centering the wheel is done by adjusting the tie rods and properly done does not affect wheel alignment but only the wheel's centering. So why, when I originally changed out the tires to studded tires on the same wheel rims, did the centering go off causing me to get alignment done including the steering wheel centered? Then I changed back to regular tires and the clocking was off slightly in the opposite direction from before. I drove it this way and recently changed back to studded tires expecting the steering wheel to clock on center again but it didn't change this time! And through these tire switches and plenty of driving I never felt any pulling, braking, or balance issues with the wheels.
     
  16. pjksr02

    pjksr02 Active Member

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    Reading the repair manual available on this site, adjustment is mechanical. The zeroing gives the steering ECU a "starting point," from which to begin calculations for power assist, etc.

    When you got new tires, did they do a "free" alignment or anything?
     
  17. Susan4ET

    Susan4ET Member

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    Changing out tires does not require alignment but only rebalancing the wheels. That gets done every time I change them. If Les Schwab did a 'free alignment' they didn't tell me, document it, or do a good job and that was before the Toyota shop did a warranty alignment and centering.
     
  18. kbeck

    kbeck Active Member

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    Susan,

    Look, it's like this. There's two tie rods, one on the left and one on the right. You've got rack-and-pinion steering, and the rack is what it sounds like: a bar with teeth in it that is perpendicular to the direction of travel of the car. The tie rods are connected to the ends of the rack. The other ends of the tie rods are connected to the steering knuckles of each wheel with some ball joints. As you saw the steering wheel back and forth, the rack moves left and right, the tie rods get pulled back and forth by the rack, and the steering knuckles swivel back and forth making the car go left and right.

    Each tie rod is adjustable in length: loosen a locknut, grab the body of the rod, and turn it. If you turn both rods in opposite directions, the front wheels either get cross-eyed (more toe-in) or wall-eyed (I think that's the term), with toe-out.

    Turn them both in the same direction and, to go straight, the steering wheel will have a left or right clocking, depending upon which they get turned.

    There's nothing else. That's the way it works. The power steering just provides more power to the rack than you do by hand, but it works anyway, even if the power steering is kaput. I don't know about sensors, so other people's post on that are interesting, but those sensors have nothing to do with the mechanics.

    Now, run the car into a curb and you can bend something. Such is life. One can compensate for that by realigning the wheels (camber, caster, toe-in) or by getting out a ten-pound sledge and giving the offending spot a clong in the opposite direction. Or adding shims/washers to the appropriate spots. Which is why we pay the alignment guys the big bucks since it's easy to screw up.

    You gotta figure that, when they build Priuses, somebody gets underneath and does the adjustment on each car as they're built so the steering wheel is at 12 o'clock when the tires are aligned straight. Making the adjustment is a no-brainer, manuals I've seen for other cars tell you how much of a turn in the same direction on the tie rods will change the clocking in degrees (half a turn = 3 degrees, etc.).

    Most cars with which I've been associated usually benefit from a realignment roughly 30,000 to 80,000 miles apart. The need for it is sometimes just regular wear (that's the 80,000 mile one) or running the car through at speed through one pothole too many (30,000 mile case).

    Now, the car calls for, what, 90 ft-lb of torque on the lug nuts. The guys in the back probably have a compressed air hammer lug wrench; once a lug nut's put on with one of these things it can take a lot more torque to get that lug nut off. Especially if they got the wrench set wrong. That is, you'll see me standing on top of the end of the lug wrench, one foot out, jumping, just to get the nut loose. Using an improperly set lug wrench, then, can bust or bend things - and there you are. Just how careful do you think these guys were? The other point is you gave them the car. If they banged the wheel into something, hard, or put the lift on the wrong jack points, then there you are again.

    Of course, lifting the car into the middle of the air tends to flex things. So maybe the whole business is some minor flex that didn't come back when the car came back down. As some other people have noted, if this is true, then your clocking could be considered a design flaw in that a car shouldn't be quite that sensitive to that kind of treatment.

    In any case, your car is likely out of alignment unless some mechanic is playing silly buggers with you by clocking your steering wheel over on purpose. You could take your car over there and bitch, but, given that it's only a couple of degrees, they'll probably do a "I can't see a thing" kind of excuse to avoid the labor. Especially if they're not getting paid. On the other hand, if they want continuing business from you, they'll fix it, especially since it's likely their fault. On the third hand, it doesn't appear major, so you could let it ride until the regular tires go back on. On the fourth hand, the Prius is sensitive to misalignment in that gas mileage gets worse if the wheels aren't lined up properly, so maybe you should complain louder.

    Good luck!

    KBeck.
     
  19. Susan4ET

    Susan4ET Member

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    Way too much general info on steering KBeck that I already know all about from past careers, and none of it sheds new light on problem--sorry. Let's just wait now and see what Toyota finds/does when I have the car serviced next week.
     
  20. kithmo

    kithmo Couch Potato

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    Isn't that just for the park assist function ?