Is it OK to do the transaxle ATF change just with front wheel ramps? Does the slight incline affect the amount drained much?
Refill may be a problem: proper level is determined by basically filling until it starts coming back out, and the car's supposed to be level for this. The usual DIY method is to raise the front end with a jack and settling it onto jack stands. Then repeat with the rear, checking for level. You could run the front end onto ramps, then jack and safety stand the rear only.
You are supposed to drain and add transaxle ATF fluid with the car level. However, if that is not possible and your car is on a "slight incline", I wouldn't worry about it. Make sure you add only 4 US quarts of Toyota ATF WS.
The angle is only a few degrees, just enough to wiggle underneath. It is such that the fill port will be rotated up. Since the actual amount is to add is known, I won't be overfilling. I can borrow jack stands from the neighbor, but that adds to the project quite a bit.
Luckily, I have a slanted driveway, so when I do drain and fills where the car has to be level, I drive the car up the ramps until it is and then block the wheels and adjust jack stands underneath.
Yes, that is a good compromise. I was just getting attached to doing this on a carpet in the garage next to the tools, rather than out in the mud and the rain, which is in good supply here lately. But doing it right is essential, so that's what I'll do. My thinking was that since I drive up and down much steeper inclines than my ramps without problems, the level aspect ought not be so critical if the right amount is put in after draining.
i made my ramps years ago from leftover wood from building my deck. my heavy duty front ramps are 6 boards thick, the lighter duty rear ramps are 5 boards thick (I think deck boards are 1 inch thick its been so long I can't remember). however for this project I was gonna reverse the ramps so that the rear of the car is one inch higher than the front. since Toyota wants us to fill the transaxle 5mm below the check level line which is virtually impossible on a level car, I figure if the rear of the car is one inch higher my results will be perfect. Now if I can only find a hardware store that will sell just a 10mm hex, not an entire set.
I did the same, and to be sure of my "craftsmanship" I drove something much heavier on them first. I really wonder how accurate this "5mm below" spec needs to be, since wiggling a pinky in the hole is what most will do for checking. In my terrain the car is usually not running on level ground, so the transaxle will spend little time at that reference orientation. A bit of latitude has to be OK. I got the whole metric hex set for less than $5, so can't complain. Cheap tools for rare uses have been OK for me. If I use something often, then I'll go for the best.
My sentiments exactly, but I didn't think you would have much choice in Hawaii, I figured there would be one or two hardware stores and you would have to pay whatever they decided to sell it at and you would have to pay an inflated "island price." the reason I think this is because I watch a lot of house hunters and they always show most homes in pacific and caribbean islands are sold furnished because the cost of shipping things to islands is outrageous. I figured the only things you would be able to pay less than us would be macadamias and pineapples . . . but I could easily be wrong.
You dont really even need to jack the car up at all, just get your head arm and shoulder under the drivers side front and you should be able to reach everything as I did last week.