lots of questions

It takes some effort and the right situation. I use a Level 2 charger at home and work, almost daily. My work commute is less than ten miles each way, enabling me to drive almost all EV, unless I deviate from my route. Speed can't exceed 62 mph. I drive my 2012 PIP to maximize mileage, rather than drive it like I would a regular car. My lifetime EV is currently 75% out of a total of 8600 miles. With a plug in, I'm taking advantage of the EV mode as much as possible, with no regard to bragging rights, percentages, etc. EV mode, use it or lose it, as in not take advantage.

 

Per EPA, 33.7 kWh of electricity is equivalent to a gallon of gas.

PiP displays the kWh usage and EV miles in one of the screen. Note that, it is only the kWh drawn from the battery.

To get the EPA MPGe, you need to include the loss during charging the battery. With the included standard 120v charger in NA, the loss is about 15%. Toyota L2 (240v) charger loss is about 10%.

If you drove 150 miles with 34 kWh displayed, you think you get about 150 MPGe. However, if you included charging loss, it is actually 126 - 134 MPGe depending on charger.

For gas, you also have HV miles divided by gallon consumed. If you have 150 HV miles and used 3 gallons, you got 50 MPG.

For composite fuel economy, it is total miles divided by both fuels. You have 300 miles total, 3 gallon gas and 1.12-1.19 egallon. Thats 72-73 MPGe composite of gas and electric.

 

ev% is simply a function of your driving routes, habits and ability to charge. there isn't too much you can do to effect it.

 

You can maximize EV ratio by planning your trips by combining or separating them.

 

Do we have definitive proof that the kWh displayed is the net draw from the battery or from the input to the charger? My observation tends to match the latter, which makes sense: it's basically telling you what you used off the grid, just like the number of gallons of gas used comes from the same number of gallons pumped in.

Of course, I could be wrong.

 

The net draw from the battery is always about 15% lower than the net draw from the wall. So, yes, we know for sure the kWh displayed in the car is what the car actually uses, not what comes from the wall.

 

Thanks. With the rounding error of having no decimal places on the consumption displayed, I've had to watch for the change of the whole number and work backwards. I seem to get about 4-4.5 miles/kWh, which seemed reasonable as wall-to-wheels. Thanks for the clarification.