Not going to be driving for 4 to 6 weeks. Have to have a total knee replacement, was in process of working that out and landed in ER this morning. Left is no longer weight bearing. So I'm on crutches, have a knee immobilizer (no driving) and strong pain meds. (also no driving). Surgeon can't see me till Monday, so for now, I know the car won't be used till then. Will know more once I see him, but I expect that this is it till 4 to 6 weeks post surgery. I seem to recall that when not using the car for long periods, I'm supposed to disconnect something, so it will start when I can resume use. I have no idea what I need to disconnect. Thanks.
You disconnect the 12v battery negative terminal, but that will cause all your doors to not open electronically.....including the hatch, the location of the battery when you need to reconnect. You would need to crawl through the hatch area via the rear seats to open the hatch manually (there's a lever inside). This may be difficult after some sort of surgery Maybe you can buy a trickle charger and just keep it plugged in once every week while you're not using it?
There is a switch (assuming your Prius is a gen2) under the dash near the steering column that disconnects the SKS system, which cuts down battery use during non-operation. That is probably what someone told you to do...but I like the idea of a trickle charger if you can hook one up, much better solution.
If your Prius is equipped with a SmartKey system, it is recommended that you deactivate the SmartKey system (button under the dash - see p. 41, destruction manual (Gen II))
Is the car in a secure garage? If so I'd disconnect the battery neg cable and stuff it into a heavy glove. Lay the glove's pair across the hatch latch mechanism and lower the hatch on it. Or just hook up a smart charger, the type that can be left on indefinitely. If parked on the street: take the battery right out of the car. You can still lock the car, with the physical key. You'll need some help, someone to crawl thru the car and pop the hatch. No matter the scenario, a smart charger is good to have. A digital multimeter too.
feel for you on the knee! my wife had hers done last summer. there's a fair bit of recovery and physical therapy. everyone is different, as is every surgeon. you should be driving within 6 weeks if it's the left knee. the hardest part is bending it enough to get it into the car. and of course, you want to be off the pain meds. praying for you, all the best!
Good luck with your surgery and recovery. If you are concerned about needing to have the car locked up while it is not being used, then an alternative to disconnecting the 12V battery at the hatch, is to disconnect the cable connected to the dedicated positive jumpstart terminal in the main relay/fuse box. To do this you would remove the box lid by pressing hard on the latch at the front. Find the dedicated jumpstart terminal and pivot up the red plastic cover. Use a 10 mm deep socket to remove the nut at that dedicated terminal, use a pair of long nose pliers to pull up the cable off the stud, then replace the nut and lower the red plastic cover. Place the loose cable over the cover, reinstall the relay/fuse lid, then you can close the hood. Lock the doors manually. Use the mechanical key embedded in the fob to open the driver's door lock, when you are ready to reconnect the battery to resume operation. This is much easier than crawling through the hatch and trying to find the mechanical release for the hatch lock.
It is much better to cause a spark at the main relay/fuse box where there is nothing particularly combustible around, vs. causing a spark in the vicinity of the 12V battery where hydrogen gas may or may not be present depending upon what type of battery is installed, whether required vent hoses are in place, whether the battery had been severely overcharged prior to the spark being produced, etc.