I'm recycling the orignal plastic thing to hold my new infinity 6x9s. I think I need to trim more plastic to get it to fit more flush. I put it in but I think the screws I'm hold my new 6x9 to it are also pushing it out from the door body a couple milimeters. I should have had them run into the plastic and when I went to put them back in the doors I could tell the screws were hitting barely. Now when I tried to put door panels on it wouldn't snap shut where the speaker was. Oh well no quick swap for me. I'll do it right tomorrow.
I had the same problem the screws touching the door/ with certain songs the whole door panel was vibrating/ the screws were touching this little enhancement things at the door panel, so I took an exacto knife & leveled everything there/ no more problems/
I'll use my soldering iron to make the speakers fit flush and see if that fixes it and then maybe melt a couple spots insidethe door panel. I guess I can put something to mark where it's hitting.
melting was too much of a risk for me, I didn't want to end up with a hole in the panel/ just cutting it off might take a little bit longer, but rather save than sorry/
I had a nice little wire cutter that had the cutting part like some finger nail clippers so I was able to trim easily. It fits nice and flush and then put some guide holes with the soldering iron for the screws and was able to get those fixed. Now my problem is how to hold the unit back on where the rivets used to be. I tried to use these self holding plastic inserts and then the screw is supposed to expand them but they just keep spinning in the hole. What did you use? I supposed if I didn't solder the wires for the speaker I can put the plastic frame in first but then I'd have to take it all apart again =/
I took a small piece of sandpaper and squeezed it in with them and that helped. Now I can do the right side since I know what I'm doing.
Do you know what is positive and negative on the connector that plugs into the front door speaker? I just kept the same wire orientation so hopefully right and left meant the same polarity on the stock speakers. I saw a red dot marked on the side with the release lever and that is + of the Infinities so maybe it's correct.
I did the same thing you did: just left it the way it was & hoping that the position of plus & minus connections is standardized/
To test speaker polarity put the unit into MONO mode, turn the Bass up, turn treble down and put your head centered between the speakers. Then reverse the speaker leads (on one side only). The connection that yields the loudest low frequency audio is the correct one. Of course there is the phasing of the rear speakers as well. JeffD
I have in my notes: Speakers Rear Left + Black Rear Left – Yellow Rear Right + Red Rear Right – White Front Left + Pink Front Left - Violet Front Right + Light Green Front Right - Blue
You buy something called a pop rivet gun, and the largest rivets it accepts. Don't buy the cheap Chinese no-name one; it will self destruct with the larger rivets. Buy the good one, made by Stanley. It only costs a little more. In addition to the largest-sized rivets, you should get thin, strong washers. Stainless would be good, because the river gun will put a lot of stress on them. But if you use a thick washer, the rivet won't be able to expand behind the door panel. Let me know if you're confused. If you're in the Silicon Valley, you can borrow mine.