After changing the ATF fluid today, I set the car back down on the ground and went to start it, but got a brief error message on the MFD that I didn't have time to read, though it said something about an abnormal trans lock. The message disappeared, and then the shift pattern display on the dashboard started flashing. I couldn't go into forward or reverse, and the red brake light on the dash board stayed on even though the parking brake had been released. Everything had been fine before changing the ATF fluid, and I've never seen this problem before, so I'm guessing that when the trans fluid is drained it triggers a "low fluid" sensor that prevents the car from starting so as to protect the transmission from being damaged. Adding the new fluid obviously doesn't appear to have cleared the sensor generated data, so my question is how does one do that? I read something that someone posted at another site regarding trans fluid changes, and he said that after changing the fluid you should go into the MFD and "reset the trans fluid counter." Does anyone know how to do that? How is that function accessed? Thanks in advance for any help you can offer that will clear this problem.
There’s no transaxle fluid level sensor. You didn’t drain the fluid with the Prius power on? Trans fluid counter in MFD (if your Prius would have one) is just a counter that reminds you to change trans fluid. So trans fluid counter has nothing to do with this. Did you do anything else while changing the transaxle fluid? Maybe you moved some connector? Read the fault codes they should tell you something. You do need Toyota hybrid capable scanner. Mini-VCI is cheap and best. If you can’t get the codes read you can just try to clear them by disconnecting the 12V battery.
I haven't heard anything about a CVT fluid counter on a Gen II; Toyota calls it a lifetime fluid (i.e., good until the car stops working). It does sound like a shifting issue; sorry I can't shed more light on the problem but hope you can get is solved quickly! Is the car going into "Ready" before you do anything else?
No, I didn't do anything other than changing the trans fluid, and everything had worked fine before doing that, so that's why I thought there could possibly be a sensor issue. Since you say there is no low fluid sensor, and I'm sure that I didn't disturb any connector, I'm now thinking along other lines. I notice that folks are saying that the "abnormal transmission P lock" error usually relates to a weak or dead 12 volt battery, and this is the original 2007 battery which is now 9 years old. Strange that it would choose this particular day to give up the ghost, but I'm going to assume that is what happened, as the battery had practically no charge left in it this morning - not even enough so I could open the back hatch door. So, I have removed the battery and will have a new replacement available tomorrow morning. I'll post an update after the installation. I don't have a scanner yet, but am interested in the "Mini-VCI." From what I have seen, though, it looks like they come from China, have installation issues, and won't work without obtaining the software license (which doesn't seem to come with the kits advertised on the Internet. Do you have a suggestion for obtaining a working Mini-VCI that comes with everything needed?
Try the KKmoon product on Amazon for $21 It should give you a software download. Read the comments and questions on Amazon One suggestion on their page is to go to the link below and then scroll down to the Techstream download. I just use the one I got somewhere else, which I can't remember, but seems to me it came with my mini vci -- but then I ordered a much more robust and fully featured one -- supposedly -- and it cost $45. I probably got ripped, but hey it works. Finally, cannot vouch for the download link here... http://www.obdinnovations.com/downloads/
Thanks for the suggestions, Steve. By the way, I obtained a replacement battery yesterday morning, and then had doubts that it would fit inside the battery well, as it measured 9 and 1/4 inches in length while the original battery, marked "S34B20R" and being Toyota part # 2880021180, is slightly less than 8 inches in length. Sure enough, even though the battery well is large enough to accommodate the longer battery, the position of the battery holding bracket, in the bottom of the well, prevents installation of the longer battery. The bracket itself cannot be adjusted or modified, so the only way this battery could have been used would have been to remove the bracket and let the battery lay loose in the battery well. The height, width, and terminal posts were correct, but what's the point of battery makers labeling this as a "direct replacement for the OEM battery" when it simply won't fit? After taking the battery back for a refund, I spent the remainder of the day calling all the other auto parts stores to see if they had a battery, and asking them to measure the case if they did have one. To my disappointment, every store that had one, or had a specification listing, touted the same 9 and 1/4 inch length as being the correct replacement battery. Crazy, huh? So it looks like I'll have to go to the Toyota dealer tomorrow in order to obtain what I need.
there are two gen 2 battery sizes, sks (large) and non sks. you must have non sks prius. smaller battery. your best bet is to buy the larger bracket, because the larger battery will last longer and is worth it.
What Bisco said. I don't advocate it, but lots of people replace the bracket, apparently -- from a post earlier this week by EXSTUDENT __________________ Read. 12V Battery Upgrade: non-Smart Key (35A h) to Smart Key (45A h) | PriusChat You can replace the bottom clamp assembly w/ the longer smart key one, to fit the bigger battery; $12 when I did the battery upgrade 2 years ago. OR, you can just cut the metal arm off (hacksaw, sawz-all/reciprociating saw, circular grinding cut off wheel), and insert a scrap piece of wood to fill the space, acting like the vertical arm that was cut off. If you buy the SKS bottom clamp assembly, your local Toyota dealer will likely match Camelback's online price. Just ask. EDIT: Camelback link 2007 Toyota Prius Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping #3 exstudent, Thursday at 7:47 AM Last edited: Thursday at 8:08 AM
You can also just get the 12V battery bracket from the Prius that has smart key system and then use the battery that everybody is trying to sell to you.
It doesn't help that Toyota uses a very inflexible battery hold-down system; battery height has to be exact. A more typical method is a bracket across the top, and a pair long rods with slightly more than 90 deg hooks at the bottom (to hook into holes in upstanding tangs at the bottom), and a generous threaded portion at the top with a nut with captured washer. The height of the battery can vary plus or minus ~5 mm and the system still works. Something like this:
Yes, it seems that the smart key system batteries are larger than mine without smart key, and that the only battery sold by auto parts stores is for smart key models. Actually, Toyota says its batteries are good for about 5 years, and mine lasted for 9, so I'm not so sure a larger battery would be of any real advantage. I wouldn't mind putting the larger battery in if it isn't more expensive, but would also have to consider the added cost for the oversize bracket. Guess I'll find out tomorrow morning when I go to the dealer.
The height of the larger battery was a good match, at 8 inches. The added 1 and 3/8 inch length was the only problem. You'd think that Toyota could have produced an adjustable battery bracket for the Prius that would have accommodated either size battery, but of course why do that when you'll make more money selling conversion brackets and suggesting battery swaps?
When I put an "exact fit" Optima in our 3rd gen, it was just a leetle different in height, so that the hold down bracket wouldn't sit right; I had to put a washer under one end of the bracket. This really shouldn't be, poor design.
Yes, I'm sure it won't be very reasonable, although the price that auto parts stores were charging wasn't exactly inexpensive either, ranging between $180 and $225 with the core swap. If the dealer tries to soak me for an exact replacement, and if I can save dollars by buying the larger battery bracket, I'll get the bracket and head back to the auto parts store.
Yes, how can they call that an "exact fit" when you have to MacGyver the installation by scrounging up and adding washers?