Hmm... I haven't cleared the codes myself. This current go-round, I did try to disconnect the 12V, but didn't have any tools with me & was under time crunch; I managed only to pull the small white connector from the top of the 12V, couldn't get the large white connector off. For what it's worth, that made no difference. I can't guarantee that the local shop cleared them & tried to run the car subsequently, but it seems likely that they would have. And in the past (the November, December, and February go-rounds), they were cleared -- but there was no significant code back then, except perhaps the P0A7A (only in December & presumably a week prior to dying, when they said "the same" list of codes was present). It did occur to me to disconnect the battery, because... well, the car drove just fine; then I parked it for 90 minutes; then it stopped working. Qualitatively (from that sequence and from previous sequences), it appears accurate to say that the computer is shutting down a car that functions OK mechanically. So, yeah... maybe forcing a computer reset would help, at least on a temporary basis. I just couldn't find the CTRL-ALT-DEL keys.
Hey, I wonder if that would at least allow me to avoid using a tow truck? If I could convince the computer to let the car move for even a little while... I could drive from the shop to a place where I could install a new/refurb battery myself. Well, maybe it will come in handy. I should hear tomorrow from the shop, re: their quote on replacing individual cells. (But from what I've read here, that is not likely to be a good solution.)
You could try calling them tomorrow. I have gotten parts from them in the past. If you explain your situation, they might be willing to work with you.
To the OP... You seem to be very intelligent. However your first mistake was buying a high mileaged Prius that just happens to have been deemed a complete loss to an insurance company hence the Salvage title. The only real way to diagnose your problem(s) is to tear the car apart and having it put it back together by a highly trained Toyota Tech. I've seen Salvage and rebuilt titles that were assembled by the lowest bidder. Don't think OEM or new parts were used. I really hope you resolve your issues but the best thing to do is dump the POS and get yourself something that isn't branded. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
I would not disagree. (Esp with the "intelligent" part.) My thinking at the time -- however flawed -- was that it had been rebuilt in 2005 and had driven some 120K miles in the following 9+ years since then, without apparent difficulties (not seen in CARFAX, anyhow). That was then. Now, I don't expect I'll ever buy a salvage title again.
You mean that if I were to buy a Toyota new battery -- from a dealer -- that it is not a simple matter of removing the old battery and putting the new one in its place? (And returning the old core.) You have to open it up and move parts from the old core to the new??? :-o
Correct. From the dealer you get only the module portion of the pack. Not the elections portion. It is not fully assembled. It is not plug and play. You must open the case up on the new pack and your damaged pack and then carefully bring over some of the old components to the new pack. Some parts will be reused. Other parts will be new. Some new fasteners are supplied, but other fasteners will be reused. Each nut and bolt must be properly torqued, especially on the electrical connections. Crossthreading a nut or shearing a bolt on a new pack is an expensive mistake. And since there are more connections, the risk increases. Also, most dealers have a pretty thorough protocol with how the core is presented back to them including using nonconductive mats inside the battery case before reassembling it for shipping.
OK, rats. That essentially takes away one option. But what I don't understand is what's going on HERE (see YouTube video at the following link). Do the aftermarket companies modify the battery assembly, to present a simplified version for customers??? Link: Thanks.
The USED/REBUILT ones I send out to customers or install at the shop are like the ones in tvideo: pre-assembled. No need to swap over your electronics. In fact, if you opened the module portion of the pack you would void the 3 year warranty. Unfortunately even then people don't seem to bother correctly torquing the nuts and bolts. !?! They skimp and just kinda decide randomly "by feel" which can easily result in quite a mess. (Ever try to extract a broken stud off a high voltage contactor?) Toyota NEW packs are only partially assembled. From Toyota you get a new battery assembly with new cells, bussbars, etc. It comes with temp sensors already attached. The main cables are new but not attached. Also the end section with the electronics is not supplied with a new battery. You need to use the electronics from your old pack.
Thanks for the explanation. That's crazy, though. Why does Toyota place all that work on the various & scattered dealership mechanics? Seems like a process fraught with error, which they could control at the factory, and turn into a relatively simple process out in the field.
I've seen times where people forgot to bring over things like the vent tube or missed installing the foam strips that seal the battery case. Feel free to call if you want any more details.
A hit list would be good, what's included in "core", what isn't. And differences between brand new Toyota battery swap, vs 3rd party rebuilder's battery.
First you may as well see if your local Toyota dealer is willing to train you on the return process and sell one to you. Some definitely won't. Sidenote... I own my own hybrid repair business and I've worked on hundreds of hybrids since 2003, yet my local Honda dealer still will not sell me a Honda hybrid battery. There parts department is missing out on quite of bit of sales from me. Oh well.
We (royal of course) keep seeing similar statements posted in different threads (the HV battery core needs special repackaging and crating else the dealer will refuse the core for refund). It would be very helpful for our DIY community if one of the "Hybrid Battery Gods" could put together a video (or step by step document) showing how to 'box up' the battery core for a smoother potential return process. Is there an official Toyota document that explains such with enough detail for the rest of us?
Toyota doesn't want Joe the anybody buying 1 of their batteries and putting it in their car. They want the dealer to do that.