2010 Gen 3 Prius Clock Spring Replacement

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by epete, Apr 30, 2017.

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  1. epete

    epete Member

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    20170507_132457[1].jpg 20170507_132516[1].jpg 20170507_133044[1].jpg 20170507_133642[1].jpg 20170507_133659[1].jpg 20170507_133654[1].jpg
     
    #21 epete, May 7, 2017
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  2. epete

    epete Member

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    Some more photos

    1. Shrouds removed.
    2. various cables/connectors attached to the clock spring and steering wheel sensor.
    3. Yellow (or green [sorry color blind]) connector is connected to steering wheel sensor. Need to push in the part at the botton in order to unlock the connector.
    4. My $20 clock spring did not come with the sensor so I had to remove the old one and re-use it on the new one. It is attached with 4 tabs.
    5. broken clock spring with whee sensor attached
    6. sensor removed
    7. another view of sensor removed
     
    #22 epete, May 7, 2017
  3. epete

    epete Member

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    The Prius is now reassembled. It took some patients to snap together the sensor to the clock spring, the yellow (Green?) connector, the shrouds, but I eventually got it.

    Airbag light is now unlit on my dash
    horn now works
    audio controls work
    mode button works
    temp buttons now work
    steering wheel no longer makes that scraping sound

    All above is fixed and working great

    A new issue has now come up due to my repair. The slip indicator light (car skidding icon on dash) is now constantly on. Could this be linked to the steering wheel sensor? Maybe it needs calibration now that I installed it on a new clock spring?
     
    #23 epete, May 7, 2017
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  4. epete

    epete Member

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    my steering wheel puller came with three sizes for the bolts. I used the ones that were easily installed by hand and then tightened with a socket wrench. I don't know if it was M8x1.25. Unfortunately the part that striped was the steering wheel and not the wheel puller bolt. The only thing I can think of is maybe the both asnt the same pitch or maybe I didnt have that one screwed in far enough, but I thought I had given it enough turns.
     
    #24 epete, May 7, 2017
  5. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Hmm ... maybe my new advice to future readers of the thread is: no matter what bolts come with your steering wheel puller, or whether they seem to go easily into the wheel, stop at the hardware store and pick up a pair that you know are M8 x 1.25. They're cheap.

    An M8 x 1.25 Helicoil could be installed in your stripped wheel to make sure it is pullable next time, in case there's a next time.

    -Chap
     
    #25 ChapmanF, May 7, 2017
  6. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    Only thing I can think of is that if you press the brake pedal all the way to the floor, the slip indicator will come on, but it should go off as soon as you drive forward.
     
    #26 Rebound, May 7, 2017
  7. epete

    epete Member

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    I think when this is on permanently, it means the anti slip system has been deactivated for some reason. I am not sure how that could have happened with the fix that I did. And yes, the other function of this light is for the anti roll back function, that you mentioned. Next time I am on a hill I should validate that that is still working.
     
    #27 epete, May 7, 2017
  8. epete

    epete Member

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    I will keep that in mind if I ever need to remove it again.
     
    #28 epete, May 7, 2017
  9. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    Pull the +12V battery and re-attach. Maybe the system just didn't boot properly.
     
    #29 Rebound, May 7, 2017
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You probably don't want to wait till then to helicoil it. Easier on the bench, and no metal chips where you don't want them.

    -Chap
     
    #30 ChapmanF, May 8, 2017
  11. epete

    epete Member

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    Hello again. I have been traveling on business and had to put this aside for a bit. Today I got some time to remove the negative lead to try and reboot the cars CPU and hopefully reset the Anti Slip Dash Light.

    Nothings easy. While trying to unscrew the negative terminal the wrench fell under the battery so I had to take the entire battery out. Finally got it back together and fired up the car. The Anti Slip light is still permanently on. This doesnt seem to be something that should be effected by the clock spring so I am a bit confused as to why it happened as soom as I replaced the clock spring. It was working fine with the broken clock spring.

    I have a Maxiscan MS300 OBD II Code Reader. It showed no error codes. I used the reset option anyway even though there was nothing to clear. That did not help.

    ...and last item. About a day after my last post (prior to this one the airbag light on the dash came back on and has not gone off since. This also did not register any error codes on the Maxiscan.

    Any ideas or is it time to take it to Toyota.

    They will probably charge me as much as they would have charged for the clock spring replacement to resolve these last two issues. Sigh.
     
    #31 epete, May 20, 2017
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The codes responsible for the slip indicator light should be retrievable by the Tc-to-CG, count-the-blinks method.

    For that matter, if my notes are right (I haven't done this though), the codes responsible for the airbag warning can also be retrieved by that method in Gen 3. Notes say it matters whether you add the jumper > 60 seconds after turning IG ON (shows you the present codes), or before turning IG ON (shows you past codes). There's a way to clear them with the jumper also (have to look in the manual, I wrote note that there is a way, but not the details).

    -Chap
     
    #32 ChapmanF, May 20, 2017
  13. epete

    epete Member

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    #33 epete, May 20, 2017
  14. epete

    epete Member

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    I am finally giving in and have scheduled an appointment with my Toyota dealer for service. I will report back what they find in case it helps anyone else.
     
    #34 epete, Jun 2, 2017
  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Sorry I didn't see that when you posted it. Yes, those are the right pins. Ts has moved around (between Gen 1 and Gen 2), but Tc hasn't.

    -Chap
     
    #35 ChapmanF, Jun 2, 2017
  16. epete

    epete Member

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    No need to be sorry. You have been very helpful and I don't expect a response just because you responded in the past.

    Anyway, my service bill says the following. Codes B1810 Short In Circuit & C1231 Steering Angle Circuit were visible with their scan tool. I was told that the sensor that was mounted on the original clock spring is not meant to be removed and used on a new clock spring. They replaced my $20 ebay clock spring + old sensor with a new $770.72 Clock Spring/Sensor Part 84307-47020. The total with Labor was $1006.72.

    So if I had known this I would have searched for a clock spring/sensor assembly and probably could have saved maybe $500.00.

    Anyway, the car is repaired and all is well.

    Thanks to all who provided input on this issue.
     
    #36 epete, Jun 7, 2017
  17. austingreen

    austingreen Senior Member

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    Thanks for all the information. My clock spring just went out sunday. The dealer wants $820 for the part. I am thinking of going to ebay. Would you do that if you were to do it again. I was thinking about ebay and going to a mechanic to install. How dificult was your install if I get the right part.
     
    #37 austingreen, Aug 21, 2018
  18. tacopyro

    tacopyro Member

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    Thanks for the all the inputs here. i'm just about to do this for my 2012 due to loss of cruise control. Funny its just the cruise control and i traced it to just one wire. also, I bought my toyota genuine clockspring 84307-47020 from the middle east and it costs 250 shipped.
     
    #38 tacopyro, Aug 5, 2023
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