Hi All, I have been reading extensively looking for guidance to my "recent lights" on issue and there have been a lot of helpful Posts which led me to believe I needed to replace my 12v aux battery. I did this today and before I drop another $40+ on having a mobile mechanic come and rerun codes (I don't have my own scanner and paid that yesterday to have someone come out and run theirs for me). The lights that went on were: Red Triangle, (!), VSC and the MID Car ! icon (I also have the engine one but that has been on forever due to and emission control issue i was told wasn't critical but expensive to fix) The codes I got yesterday (prior to replacing the 12v) are as follows: 1. P0446 2. P1116 3. P1121 4. P0446 5. P1121 1. C2300 2. C2318 1. C1241 2. C1310 1. P3000 2. P3000 1. P0A84 2. P0A84 As far as the lights, the VSC and (!) lights went out, the triangle and MFD car! icon are still on. I read in another thread I could reset the warnings by turning off the smart key, inserting the fob, and pressing the start button for 30 seconds while depressing the brake. The result from this was the VSC and (!) lights going back on (though both went back off eventually). I would like to reset the triangle and MFD icon so i can see if they turn back on. Also, I'm not very mechanically inclined and one of the above warnings may have nothing to do with the 12v or emissions and I would like a better clue before i start throwing money I don't have at the issue. Thanks so much in advance! ALdbeign p.s. before anyone asks, the car has 229k miles on it and the 12v I just replaced was 8 years old! (though not the original battery)
There's not universal agreement on how helpful those posts are, but ok. At eight years, the battery didn't owe you much. I know you mentioned you don't have equipment to read them, but of course the very most interesting question for right now is which codes you still do have, after the battery was helpfully replaced. If it costs you about $40 to have somebody come read them, you might want to look into one of the inexpensive options for reading them yourself (especially if you have an old beater laptop to throw in for the cause); might set you back about the same amount, but will keep paying for itself again and again as long as you have the car. -Chap
I'm open to suggestions, i do happen to have a beater laptop (running XP and I think). I saw some references to that but wasn't really focused on that. edit- why does it need to be a beater? and how old? I have a few laptops honestly, does this have to do with a specific port that is needed?
Anything with USB will work. The beater-ness follows from most of the extremely cheap dongle options being offshore items of dubious provenance, and people choosing to load them and their software onto laptops that aren't also being used on the net or with important or personal data. -Chap
we're not allowed to mention the brand, but a google search for tech stream diagnostic software could prove helpful.
I ordered a tool, but since it won't be here until tomorrow, i went to autozone and had them use their tool. It came up with the following codes: P0446 P1116 P1121 Looks better on the surface at least.
Easy check for the first one is to make sure your fuel cap is properly installed. P0446 2005 Toyota Prius EVAP System Vent Control Circuit The others are coolant related. P1116 Toyota Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit Stack for Coolant Heat Storage System P1121 Toyota Prius Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor Circuit Stuck
The first one is a known issue that we have had for years. I'm going to check my coolant levels, hopefully that will eliminate P1116, but how critical is the control valve (P1121)?
That valve routes engine coolant between the heater core and the coolant heat recovery system canister. If it fails you may find your cabin heater does not work particularly well, and/or the engine might take slightly longer to warm up. When checking engine coolant level, check the radiator itself, do not be satisfied just by looking at the overflow reservoir. If there is an air leak (for example, due to a failing engine coolant pump bearing) then air will enter the system and the radiator level will drop, while the overflow reservoir remains full.
Awesome! Thanks so much for the answers everyone. While I am going to look into checking/fixing the valve, I at least feel confident letting my wife drive to work in the car.
so...i ended up buying an autel AL319 and looking at how-to videos after the fact i saw a mention that break codes wont show up? I had codes run at auto zone last time anyway, but i am concerned i made a bad choice now... Thoughts?
Maybe, maybe not. Check with Altel to see if there are additional files to add to the scanner so that it can scan all the Prius ECUs. If not, all is not lost, they do have model that works well on the Prius, so you may need to buy another model and sell the old one on ebay/CL. The difference is the price of experience.
Return the Autel. JUNK. Why? Limited diagnostic capability. You should have purchased miniVCI from Amazon, since you have spare, obsolete 32bit OS Window laptops collecting dust. Doesn't matter who you buy from. Just be prepared to have to possibly repair the cable you receive or buy a another cable, as quality control does not exist. Why mini VCI w/ Techstream? Techstream is the official software Toyota uses to diagnose Toyota/Scio/Lexus vehicles! Use what the dealers use; doesn't get better than that.
Unless you are an Autel product expert, you cannot make blanket statements like that. You seem to be another who posts here with a closed mind and make black and white statements. There are Autel scanners that work quite fine on Prii and are comparable to the official Toyota Hand Held scanner the dealers use. For your information, the hand held are preferred by Toyota techs over the laptop techstream for some jobs as they are smaller, more portable and convenient to use. Would be nice if you could be a little less of a stern headmaster (principal) and a little more pastoral in your posts. Just saying.