Over the last few days the red triangle came on intermittently but I didn't notice any other warning lights and no check engine lights. The red triangle only appeared for a couple of seconds at start up and went out. Then, last night, I went to start the car and the triangle came on steady and the car would not go ready status. The car also would not power down until I turned off my headlights. It seems it doesn't like me keeping the headlights on all the time. I was told it has a new 12V battery but maybe I got a bad one?
It can be many different things without a proper diagnose. Could be a wiring problem, faulty Computer Module, faulty 12 volt AUX battery or one of the high voltage battery modules could be going bad. You should have your 12 volt battery load tested first. Just because the battery maybe new, doesn't mean its a fresh battery straight from the factory as many batteries can bee sitting for months just after you buy them. Same thing with tires as you should always check the manufacturing date. If the battery comes back fine, you would need a dealer level scanner like Techstream to run a complete diagnostic.
You need a cheap obd module to read the codes. I bought one for six dollars with torque pro included. You can read codes on your phone or tablet with Bluetooth.
Checked it out today. Oil is at the top fill line,one tire was low, but, the 12V battery seems to have a dead cell. Reading came up at 9.6V, turned on headlights and the triangle turned on and the voltage dropped to 9.0. Turned the headlights off and it went back to 9.6. Took the car for a half hour drive with headlights, radio, climate, well, everything I could think of turned off. After the drive got the same readings on the battery. Seems I was lied to by the P.O. about the battery being new and I get to chat with him about it.
Yuasa's don't have date code, at least not readily readable. There's a date code embedded in a number, but it's in some code. Yeah for bottom line on battery status, many automotive retailers nowadays will have a pro quality electronic load tester on hand. Big brother to something like Solar BA5. This will give you the voltage, and the tested Cold Cranking Amps. And a verdict of sorts, either good, good-but-charge, or fail.
Maybe. IIRC at least with Yuasa, you had to contact them, tell them your battery's serial number? I'm a little fuzzy on that, but it was tricky. The logic being so that customers didn't cherry pick the latest date batteries?
The verdict is in, bad cell in a new battery. This is only like the second time I've seen a bad cell in a relatively new battery, and I've tested thousands of batteries. New battery will arrive Wednesday morning so chillin at home til I can get it replaced.
A few days late but I was pretty busy. Turns out I was mislead. P/O/ told me it was a new battery, but he was referring to the traction battery, not the 12 volt one. He mixed up the job stack and put an old but tested good in my car, the new battery went in another Gen2. The good side is I now have better information and a new 12 volt with a date code of January of this year. It should have no problem lasting until I can afford a Yellow top. The information is that I have a 2 year warranty on the traction battery, a BIG plus for me!
Is the battery new from Toyota? If not and from a rebuilder, it might not be so good of news. Keep us posted .
It's a reconditioned and balanced. That's why the 2 year warranty. The P.O. has a shop here and he has Toyota connections in Chicago. That's where this battery came from.
What’s the reconditioning process he uses ( individual module, whole pack)? How long has he been rebuilding/reconditioning? If the pack fails, the cost might be covered, but is the transportation or inconvenience? Some questions to ponder.
The way it was told to me was the guy in Chicago replaces low and bad cells with new or higher voltage cells, balances them(though I am not sure of how they balance), assembles and retests the whole shebang somehow. If the battery has a problem, he will send a tech here to Mishawaka and test the pack, and install a replacement on the spot, no charge, for two years. Warranty is NOT owner specific so it carries over to me. After the two years the pack will be tested cell by cell and the cost prorated on a new pack for the remaining viable cells that will balance in a new pack. Does that sound right?