Wanted to share a data point with this forum. First owner of Japanese made car has been reliable and low cost to operate. The mileage has dropped somewhat to about 40 MPG and the gas engine seems to come on more often then before however car seems to be running quite well still. Lifetime repairs: -accessory battery--once (don't use the accessory power; always leave car on) -tires (no replacement to pressure sensor yet), wipers, cabin air filter -HID light (once--did myself for price of bulb on amazon) -oil and air filter change (once per year only) -Engine does consume last few years some oil so when engine light comes on, I add a quart of oil or just oil change - What surprised me is the *absence* of services normally required: 1. breaks (all breaks never needed servicing) 2. traction battery (I am half expecting a cell to fail in the middle of the pack where it runs 15 degC hotter which I'll try replacing the cell myself--for fun) 3. Tire wear is actually really slow and even and steering true and tight. 4. No rattles and gadget failures over 10 years which is amazing to me. 5. Leather seats somewhat worn as well as the center arm rest however still respectable looking. If someone wants I can post some photos of this amazing engineered car. 6. Not a single accident--not sure if this is somehow safer and police just don't want to be caught stopping a silver prius. 7. No major maintenance work done at all. e.g. tighten chassis bolts, transmissions fluides, spark plugs, belts etc. Maybe the mild bay area weather is a factor. -Luis
congrats and welcome! nice write up, thank you. however, i must say, if you are waiting for the low oil pressure light, you are doing your engine a disservice, and might explain some of your lost mpg's. my daughter has my old '08 at 100k, and it is like showroom operating condition.
The oil is too low if you wait for the light to come on. That light means the engine is seriously low on oil! If/when your battery dies, you may want to consider using @2k1Toaster 's kit of new cells for $1600 instead of "kicking the can down the road" by replacing a single module. See my signature for his website link.
This is not true. If you mean the pads last for a long time and so far have not been changed, then yeah. But, brakes should be cleaned and lubricated at least every two years, to ensure that the pads continue to last a long time. They should be inspected at least annually.
Thank you for the referal? What is the capacity for the gen 2? (kWh). Original battery encased on metal for safety--how is that addressed in this cylinder design?
Agree. As an experiment, didn't clean lubricate and inspect at all for 138K miles and so far no pulsating, not even a break squeak! Saved me 10 trips to the garage--Time is money.
Would recommend a transmission drain and fill, many here use the recommended Toyota WS fluid. Easy job, and never too late.
The modules within the metal case are replaced with the cylindrical units. Actually, one unit replaced 2 modules, IIRC. @2k1Toaster works with rechargeable batteries in his daily work so he was able to source some quality Chinese cells. A couple of our experts here have tested them in addition to the satisfied customers. This is really the first reasonable alternative to a new Toyota battery. Toyota lowered their prices slightly at the beginning of this year though. There is a rather lengthy thread here. Prius Battery Replacement (GenII) Like you've never seen - NEW Cylindrical Cells | PriusChat
Thank you. What would be the initial symptom and failure modes expected? I've always been very diligent about maintenance and wondered what happens when that is not followed and if there is some what to minimize maintenance and still get a reasonable lifespan out of the vehicle.
Post symptom might be felt as a dramatic lightening on your wallet (only $4k+ for a new transmission at the dealer), and one of the failure modes would be the vehicle having impaired movement.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! Nevertheless, in the interest of science let me update you when there is some new information.
What does that engine light mean? Is it temperature above threshold or is it taking some other measurement like pressure--like a person with stroke?
Pull off the brake calipers in the front, remove the caliper pins (hopefully you can), clean and relube. Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant is suitable for this. Clean off the pad/shims, check their remaining thickness, applying thin coat of molybdenum anti-seize compound (Permatex is good) on contact surfaces. Remove the rear drums (again, hopefully you can), remove the retaining clips on the shoes, clean the backing plate with compressed air, apply small dabs of high-temperature grease at the 3 points of contact between shoes and backing plate. Check remaining shoe thickness and drum Inside Diameter while you're in there. Maybe get dealership to change the brake fluid too. You're cavalier thriftiness could result in an brake failure, and you're not the only car on the road.
The 'oil can' warning light on the dash signifies no/low oil pressure. If that light is illuminated you have a serious issue, or will have one soon.
check your spare tire and 12v battery areas for water. gen 2 are notorious for developing leaks in various places, most commonly a hairline crack in the rain gutter where it starts to slope down.
