Hybrid System Warning Lights - Need Clarification

more likely the hybrid battery at your age and miles. does the car become ready? you will have to have the trouble codes read to confirm.

 

What he said. You've got the lights on your dash that tell you something is wrong with your car. That's it. Out of the blue, so you don't have any other symptoms to hint at which of the couple hundred possibilities that might be, either. We'll be getting somewhere when you read the reported information from the computers that turned those lights on.

-Chap

 

I third that. That's at least 2 more lights than my bad 2005 hybrid battery generated. Also, I can still drive my bad battery car.

 

When you have the red triangle of death accompanied by the car icon on the mfd pretty much confirms its the hybrid battery.

You can have it towed to the dealer so they can confirm it dealer will charge $150 diag fee + your tow back and forth or you can buy an obd code reader off amazon a read it yourself that has the proprietary software and works with a laptop. Its called VXDIAG with techstream software for toyota. the tech stream is the toyota repair software thats needed to read all the hybrid codes including the inf codes. $99.

An obd with techstream is pretty much a necessity if you own a G2.

 

if it won't go ready, you need to test the 12v and connections.

 

C1310 is usually a bad inverter coolant pump. With car in READY open the inverter coolant reservoir and look inside it and look for current flow like its being pumped. If the coolant just sits there you have a dead inverter pump.

 

The pump may have shorted out and blown a fuse. Check all the fuses in the box under the hood and in the drivers side kick panel.

 

Your right on.

Also your 12 volt battery is toast too which sometimes muddys the diagnostic waters. It’s hard for the ecu’s to report correctly when there own power is sketchy.

 

i still think you should check the 12v health.

 

On a side note, to eliminate any confusion, the car does not need to be in ready to test the inverter coolant pump. With your foot OFF the brake, press the start button to put it in ACC mode. Press it again to put the car in IG-ON mode. The inverter water pump should run when in IG-ON.

And on another note, it sounds like you're on a path to give away a bunch of cash easter egging the problem. If you aren't confident your mechanic is familiar enough with a Prius, then find one who is. Just the first part about reading codes should have been enough to realize that shop has NO experience with a Prius. Unless of course, he works on your car for free.

 

Somewhat far off, because those three codes point to a problem with the position sensor (within the transaxle), or the wiring harness between the hybrid vehicle ECU and the transaxle, or the ECU itself. I suggest you subscribe to techinfo.toyota.com so that you can research those three codes and the troubleshooting tree which allows you to test the wiring harness and the position sensor. If both are good then the ECU would be replaced.

If the ECU is replaced, then it has to be registered with the transponder key ECU so the car will start. That process is also documented in techinfo.

 

For those moments when reasoning like that may sound persuasive to you, don't forget that the whole protocol where the ECU recognizes your scan tool on the CAN bus, recognizes code inquiries over the connection and sends the requested information back in correct error-free format, is a pretty sophisticated bunch of steps to be getting carried out with absolute correctness by this ECU that is supposedly doing all of that to give you codes it can't correctly report.

Also worth keeping in mind that one of those codes, a report from the skid ECU with "low battery positive voltage" in its fortune cookie, is a report from a voltage sensor built into the skid ECU and pertaining to the voltage it measures at a specific skid ECU terminal. That's at least as likely to have to do with wiring junctions, fuse connections, etc., on the wiring path to that ECU, as it is to be some comment on the battery itself.

Patrick beat me to pointing out that some of the codes were about the position resolvers in the transaxle. If nobody has been disassembling the transaxle recently, most likely those are going to turn out to involve the external wiring connections to the transaxle.

-Chap