dash lights on with repeated hissing noise

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by 00-00, Oct 31, 2013.

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  1. Mr.Electric

    Mr.Electric Member

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    There is a good thread on accumulator replacement in the top threads right now.
     
    #21 Mr.Electric, Dec 11, 2013
  2. 00-00

    00-00 Member

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    Yesterday afternoon I got my car back from the dealership (dash lights still on).
    I tested for power at accumulator assy plug--it was present at the proper times, but the motor did not activate.
    In the mail, I received the latest used accumulator assy this afternoon, and did the swapping again.
    FWIW, I was able to "set aside" the inverter without draining any of the coolant.
    I put most everything back together, fired it up, and heard the motor pumping every time I depressed the brake pedal.
    I presume that the dash lights will stay on until the brakes are properly bled, and the codes cleared.
    Getting closer. More to follow...
     
    #22 00-00, Dec 13, 2013
  3. Mr.Electric

    Mr.Electric Member

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    Nice work !
     
    #23 Mr.Electric, Dec 14, 2013
  4. 00-00

    00-00 Member

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    Success!
    Technician said that everything went smoothly, and all is good.
    Thanks to all for for your inputs--much appreciated.
     
    #24 00-00, Dec 18, 2013
    nh7o likes this.
  5. Mr.Electric

    Mr.Electric Member

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    So you replaced the abs actuator ,got a bad actuator and installed a second actuator that solved the problem. Nice work. Defective replacement parts really make troubleshooting difficult.
     
    #25 Mr.Electric, Dec 19, 2013
  6. 00-00

    00-00 Member

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    Yep, after the initial replacement of a "guarenteed to work" used part, you (I) proceed under the belief that the used part in fact does work properly. It takes a while to admit to yourself that the used part is defective.
    On the flip side, I learned quite a bit about some of the Prius systems. It was interesting to remove the accumulator motor from the assy to see how it functions, as well as how to bench test the accumulator motor.
    All in all, I'm grateful that it's now working as it should.
     
    #26 00-00, Dec 19, 2013
  7. HBS

    HBS Member

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    #27 HBS, Oct 18, 2018
  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hi Brian,

    Does the ABS-1 fuse still blow? If yes, check the wiring to the brake actuator resistor and to the brake actuator for a short.

    Since the ABS MTR relay is clicking, did you try to replace that one? That relay is controlled by the skid control ECU.

    Make sure that every fuse related to this system is good: 10A ABS MAIN1, 10A ABS MAIN2, 15A ABS MAIN3, 25A ABS-1, 30A ABS-2, 7.5A IGN, 7.5A STOP, 7.5A ECU-IG. This means that you remove each fuse, one at a time, and use an ohmmeter to verify continuity. Do not depend upon visual inspection.

    Make sure that the connections to body ground around the brake actuator assembly and the skid control ECU are good.

    DTC C1252 and C1256 point to the brake actuator, while C1345 indicates the linear solenoid valve needs to be initialized and calibrated.

    Obtain the factory repair manual info at techinfo.toyota.com
     
    #28 Patrick Wong, Oct 19, 2018
  9. HBS

    HBS Member

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    . Is there a way to verify power to the brake hydro booster pump? Thank you!
     
    #29 HBS, Oct 19, 2018
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