what are you reading with? you don't want a wild goose chase from incorrect codes. any symptoms? how many miles on her?
All three of those codes are related to the main relays in the HV battery. The HV battery has three connections to the car harness. The small one is the safety interlock, the medium is 12v power to the relays, the large one is the ecu. Without having dug into this, I would look at the medium sized connector at the HV battery to see if it's not connected. Just off the top of my head.
P0AE0=(subcode 228)=Hybrid battery negative contactor control circuit high P0ADC= (subcode 226)=Hybrid battery positive contactor control circuit high P0AE7= (subcode 224)=Hybrid battery precharge contactor control circuit high
Awesome help as always... Do you have a link or PDF that lists all the error codes that you got this from? Would love to have access to it in a way that makes it so I stop wasting so much time searching when I need to find out what error codes mean.
It has 205,000 miles. Screen says I’m averaging 44.5 mpg, and the car runs great. I took the main battery plug out and disconnected the 12v battery for about 10 mins. Hooked everything back up and all the dash lights were still on including the red triangle. I’m using the Carista Bluetooth obdii. After connecting the battery back I only had P0ae0 and p0adc. Then after pushing the start button a few times all the lights went away. I drove around for about 20 miles and the dr Prius said voltage problem in block 7 and the battery was getting hot. A few minutes later it said no voltage problem but battery was still to hot. The battery fan was on but it’s 93% here. Thanks everyone for the quick reply’s
Update: Cleaned battery fan...it was pretty bad. Temps that were running 138f are now down to 111f after a 20 min drive. Fuel economy seems good.
If you remove the trunk tray, you'll see the HV battery. The driverside of the battery case contains the electronics. To access those three plugs, you would need to remove the driverside cover of the battery, not the main cover. It has two nuts where the main cables enter, two bolts on top and one bolt at the bottom back, a couple inches from the safety disconnect.
Relays very rarely fail, especially all three at once. Every time someone I know changed a relay on a battery pack it turned out to not solve the problem... I'd start with making sure the 12v battery is healthy. Then clear the codes and see if they come back, then check to make sure the orange safety plug is click into place, then inspect connections. I'm thinking corrosion, if anything? Or perhaps the 12v power is no longer reaching the pack due to blown fuse or damaged wire.
Awesome...thanks for the info. I put a new 12v in from Toyota about a month ago. I’ll check these other things. Thanks
I had the same codes P0AE0, P0ADC, P0AE7, and P3004. After changing module 10 three times because # 10 would not charge, I figured it had to be in the wires. Checked the volt sensor wire (ok). Checking the wires coming from the interrupt plug I noticed at the module 10 terminal it looked corroded so I changed it with an extra one I had. This cleared the codes. I'm including a picture of what one of my batteries that had these wires soldered since it must have been shorted also.
Dorman solders those connectors at the crimp. The OEM crimps are pretty susceptible to corrosion at those cables. The solder makes a much better connection.
