Photos are attached below. I'm not saying all this suspension damage was caused by high tire pressure, but if just one of these items could have been prevented from normal tire pressure, then it wipes away many many years of gas saving from high tire pressure. This is for my other "ghetto proof car" (a 2004 Chevy Impala 3.4 liter V6) I use when I have to park somewhere in a bad neighborhood and don't want my Prius 4 stolen. GM recommends 33 psi for all 4 tires. I usually have had the tire pressures anywhere from 38 front/33 rear to 44 front/39 rear. In the last year or so it's been 44 front/39 rear almost exclusively. I usually put in air during sunlight hours from 10 am to 7 PM after driving to a Wawa so these might not be true cold tire pressures. I've hit some huge potholes when it's unavoidable because of not so good low beams, being surrounded by cars and nowhere to go to avoid the pothole, etc. I had both front wheel hub bearing and both front sway bar links replaced in July 2019. Just this month they said that one sway bar link was completely missing. I had both front outer tierod ends and 1 front sway bar link replaced this month. This was on top of a tuneup, all brake rotors and pads, new front tires, inspection, emissions, and tax so it really added up. I was running the Impala at 33 psi all around after getting everything fixed but I got horrible fuel economy of 18.9 mpg. I usually average 21 mpg with 70% Suburban, 10% city, and 20% highway driving. The highest I've ever gotten was 32.5 mpg with 80% highway 20% suburban driving on 1 tank. I increased my tire pressure back to 40 front 35 rear because of bad fuel economy at 3 PM after driving about 8 miles to a Wawa so it's not a true cold.tire pressure. I'm running my Prius at 46 front 41 rear but I'm thinking of going down 5 or 6 psi now. What's your experience with suspension damage? I'm starting to wonder if I should just run factory tire pressures in all my cars including the Prius now.
I have learned from cycling and driving a car that high tire pressures do not necessarily result in better mileage or lower rolling resistance. Use the numbers recommended by the car manufacturer and enjoy the ride.
Not to detract from your story but if you “lost” a tie rod and it was recently replaced i Would tend to believe they didn’t install it correctly or it was a bad rod. I myself have hit potholes big enough to bottom an entire tire and never lost anything but I did bend a kingpin this way. I tend to be of the mindset that large impact road obstacles + speed equals one of two scenarios (choose one) 1. Blown tire or bent rim (low pressure) 2. Damage to suspension (high pressure) I do not view 40ish PSI as high pressure, my guess is regardless of your tire pressure you would not have avoided damage and personally I rather bend my suspension a little rather than blow a front tire on the highway but that’s just me.
I lost a sway bar link, not a tie rod end. It's the thing with the 4 blue bushings in the photos I posted. I do think it's their fault but there's no way they're going to pay for it. I think they probably forgot to put locktight on or didn't torque the nut enough.
Higher pressures have got to transmit more shock, accelerate wear-and-tear on the suspension. How much is endlessly debatable, but I'm in the "I don't want to find out the hard way" camp. I'm also a real nervous Nellie over those #@$&! speed bumps, take them at dead slow, thank you very much. And/or avoid parking lots with them, shop elsewhere when possible.
When I first bought my Gen 1 in 2008, it was seven years old with about 125,000 miles, and was silent as a church as I drove it home from Merrillville. Then I discovered PriusChat, and got the 44 psi bug for a few weeks, and eventually backed down to 38/36 or so to keep my fillings in, but all the interior squeaks and rattles that sprang up during those few weeks, I was never again without for the eight years I had the car.
I don't know which car you're asking for, but the Prius currently has 61,500 miles and the Impala has just over 130k miles and had about 129,400 miles when I got all the work done on it.
I'm an obnoxious proponent of just running the manufacturer recommended PSI. But having said that? Who know's what caused all that suspension damage? Certainly higher PSI being tougher on your suspension IS one of the reasons I would recommend just going with the manufacturers recommendation. BUT...I can't look at your pictures and offer the conclusion that it WAS the reason you manifested that damage. I think it was Colonel Mustard in the Conservatory with a portable air compressor!
Sounds like long term potholes did the damage. I run all 44s year long on flat no bump roads and tires are quiet. At any average psi, potholes sooner than later will crap any suspension related components up.
There's a couple of threads started up recently, regarding the travails of "Front No. 1 Lower Suspension Arm Sub-Assembly RH/LH" (aka "lower control arm") replacement, due to rubber bushing going bad. Someone ended up torching access holes in the "Front Cross Member Sub-Assembly" (a name that should and does strike fear) to get a purchase on a captured nut therin, to further the cause of extraction of aforementioned "Front No. 1 Lower Suspension Arm Sub-Assembly RH/LH". I'll take a few 10ths of a mpg drop over that grief any day. And once the deed is done, the tightening of the two main bolts of the Front No. 1 Lower Suspension Arm Sub-Assembly RH/LH must be done delicately... With the car lowered back to the ground, and the front end bounced a few times, to settle things. How you torque the bolts with the car down, who knows: on ramps, using an oil change pit?? And then there the aligment. And first step of that is Zero Point Calibration procedure (just that title makes me break into a sweat), and when you get into alignment, there's a possibility you'll be needing alternate bolts (with narrower shanks) for these: There's various sizes... Reality being, a lot of these procedures are so arduous/involved, I'd suspect they don't get done. The instructions are behind the paywall at toyota tech info, which doesn't help. So cowboy mechanics get new parts in there, the car feels funny, noisy, and the bushing on the parts have accelerated wear, and you're back where you started.
but the door sticker is a two pound difference. do you think there is an benefit to 5, or is it a ratio?