Oil pressure warning despite the oil being full

This engine may literally grenade itself in the next 100 miles.

Yes, $6400 is outrageous; shop around. With nearly 300k miles, a complete engine and transaxle swap may make more sense/cents.

GOOD LUCK!

 

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Are there any stored OBD2 codes or warning lights on the dash?

Sounds expensive. Call some of the local toyota dealers, bet you can find one that will put a *NEW engine* in for that price.

Or just buy another gen2 for 6400, there must be a decent one available around that price point : chicago cars & trucks - craigslist

Check the Yelp reviews first, then contact these folks, maybe they can recommend someone to do a used engine swap, or take a look at the 20+ plus prii they have for sale, might even take yours as a trade in - http://www.autoguys.biz or Economical Prius Repair Specialists Including Hybrid Battery Issues - auto parts - by dealer - vehicle automotive car truck sale

If you do end up buying, before purchase check the VIN at http://toyota.com/owners, and also run your own carfax to be safe.

@MilkyWay has always been quite helpful, and could have a couple of options for you

 

I once experienced something similar to this on a farm motor. Engine stalled twice (after cooling) while idling as if bearings were getting hot and sticking, or other drag was increasing during warmup until it stopped the motor. I thought is was likely an oil problem. Dad insisted that was impossible because the oil was full, which it was. Shop later determined that the oil pump had failed.

If your engine still runs, I doubt that it has a full oil pump failure. But likely something else is causing oil problems.

 

Yes. But only one.
Rent a car until you can find a replacement.
You have a 14 year old car with near to 300K miles.
It has had a good life. Now it is time for a funeral.
SERIOUSLY.

None of the details make the tiniest little difference.
It is possible that the engine is about to lock up........and/or catch fire.
Likely even.
STOP DRIVING IT.

P.S. And living where you do, the body is probably wracked with "cancer" from road salt.
I do NOT think fixing it is a wise thing to do.

 

Oil pump may be the genesis of the problem, but I suspect that the shop is right and the engine has had it. I would not mess with fixing it. Too much $$$ for a car that old. It's had a good long life. Time to put it out to pasture. If not for the expense of towing and the possible inconvenience, it's always kind of fun when an engine sticks a connection rod out through the case.

 

Not if it also locks up solid.........and throws you into a spin.

 

I might be wrong, but I think that would only happen with a manual transmission. If I am wrong, then that's part of the "inconvenience" factor. Right along with getting trapped with no power way over in the fast lane.

 

I also very strongly doubt that a seized Prius engine will lock the wheels. The HSD between ICE and wheels should be sufficiently flexible to let it roll, maybe even with power still flowing to help reach safe parking.


When I broke a timing belt on a manual transmission, I had no control problems, but also hit the clutch the moment something was obviously wrong. I had two lanes (but not from fast lane) to move over to the shoulder in heavy evening commute traffic, but the cars behind detected distress and gave me plenty of room.

Years before, sis had the same event. But her's happened in the fast lane, also in significant traffic. She not only coasted over to and UP the next offramp, but perfectly parked in a safe parking lot as well. The best excuse I've seen for rolling through a stop sign.

 

I'm wondering if you should change the oil filter in case there has been a blockage by foreign material. You could cut it open
to check for debris and see if the oil pressure returns with a new filter.

 

Metal in oil means that there's something wrong with the engine. Practically it means that you need engine rebuild or a new (or good used) engine.

Yes a really bad oil filter could cause engine to go bad. But you can't then fix it by putting a good oil filter on.

 

Agree with @valde3. Any visible metal particles or shavings in the oil filter would indicate that the engine self destruct timer has been initiated. And it's on silent countdown.

 

There is a breakaway clutch between the engine and the planet carrier in the transaxle. I can't say for certain that it exists for this exact scenario; but I can't think of a better reason to put one there. Not unlike a shear pin in a snowthrower. Apart from that, only a rear-wheel-drive vehicle would be thrown into a spin. Granted, an uncontrolled front lockup would be a weird and violent experience but it wouldn't be a spin per se. I could see the torque steer generated by the unequal length driveshafts as being enough to whip the steering wheel hard enough to break a thumb.

Oil filters have bypass valves, so when the filter media clogs the oil will continue to flow. In many modern cars the filter is operating in bypass mode most of the time the engine is running. Changing filters won't help this engine.

Hate to say it but everything I've read in this thread says to me that your car is done. Stick a fork in it, not just resting; no longer pining for the fjords, this is an ex-Prius.

I would not repair it, but I might buy another like it and harvest the good bits off the old one.

 

Metal shavings in the oil is your 100% confirmation.

 

In a conventional vehicle, yes probably.
With a hybrid vehicle......?????

 

That in itself was your first warning of impending catastrophic engine failure.
The loss of oil pressure was your second.
The rest of this discussion is just a waste of time.

Three strikes and you are OUT.

 

I can't say for sure how the Prius would respond to a seized engine at speeds higher than MG1 can be spun. @Leadfoot J. McCoalroller mentioned a possible breakaway clutch. I haven't heard that the Prius has one and the descriptions by Professor John at Weber State don't mention one. It might just destroy the transaxle by spinning it too fast unless it's a Prime with the sprague clutch. Whatever happens, I think it might make for an "interesting" day.

 

I'm pretty sure I first learned about it in one of those Weber videos. I found a reference to it with photo here, just now. We know it isn't like a traditional clutch because there is no pressure plate or release mechanism; but I can't tell if it is supposed to provide a strain relief in the event of a lockup or if it is strictly a damper for NVH reduction.

The comment on that site: