Happy Saturday. If you already have a 240v dryer outlet, you can skip the middle part of this just published video. I'm not an electrician but the rest seems ok. In the end of the video he recommends a heat detector alarm in the garage instead of a smoke alarm. Why?
To prevent nuisance alarms caused by extreme temperatures or smoke from vehicles. See NFPA 72-2019, National Fire Alarm and Signaling Code, 29.11.3.4(2): “Smoke alarms and smoke detectors shall not be located within unfinished attics or garages or in other spaces where temperatures can fall below 40°F (4.4°C) or exceed 100°F (38°C).” The explanatory annex (A29.8.1) states, “The installation of smoke alarms in kitchens, attics (finished or unfinished), or garages is not normally recommended, because these locations occasionally experience conditions that can result in improper operation.”
I wanted to see how he did the subpanel installation DIY. That's the part I have to start if I want to install 240V in my garage. But the biggest hindrance is not even that. I have to run 8/3 or thicker Romex wire 30 feet of distance from the main panel to the detached garage under the paved driveway. Still, very informative video.
Here's an example complete with errors to watch out for on a similar project for irrigation. There are some other videos where people use galvanized pipe with a 90° water hose connection on one end to allow the water pressure to bore the hole.
Humm, I didn't watch the entire video, but did he just blasted the soil under the concrete driveway using water pressure? In my situation that would be very difficult to do. The space between the house where the main panel is located and the detached garage about 30 feet away is completely black topped. There is no soil to dig. The black top goes all the way to the foundation walls on both sides. Currently there is a buried wire under the blacktop that runs from the house main to the garage. I didn't do this, but former owner must have done it when they built the garage after house was already up, and blacktopped the area afterwords. The current wire is only good enough for 20A of circuit. Upgrading this to anything bigger, I still think I have to cut the asphalt, dig a trench and bury a new thicker wire. Not an easy DIY project, IMHO.
Blacktop is not concrete. If you water-jet a void under the blacktop, over time the blacktop above it may settle into the depression you created and you'll have a groove in your driveway, especially if the driveway wasn't poured over a thick subgrade of gravel. (Although since you are in New England, it probably was.) All in all, trenching is probably the better choice. Myself, I'd pay a pro to do it, but you could rent a gas cut-off saw and DIY if you really want.
Thanks for chiming in. Yeah, that was exactly my conclusion after consulting a few electricians for quotes. But at this time, the cost of doing this just for saving a few hours a night and a few penny per charge to upgrade to 240V L2 EVSE for PRIME is absolutely waste of money. So, I am sticking with OEM L1 charge on regular 120v wall plug running on 20A circuit in the garage which is shared with a large freezer, light fixtures, two garage door openers, and whatever happens to be plugged into the wall or outside wall receptacles at that time. I have not had any incident of breaker tripping while charging my PRIME at night, so the rest of appliances are not drawing much during that time frame.
That's where I ended up, too, even though my Prime is in the garage where the electrical box is, which would make it a much easier thing to do. When do I really need to halve the time it takes to charge, even if the SoC is zero? Pretty much never, I decided. If/when we add a BEV or a PHEV with a larger battery, that would be the time to invest in L2 charging.
Yap, that is my plan too. But before that, I need to install PV panels on our roofs first. I was going to do it last year, but couldn't get it started. This year for sure while the diminishing federal rebate is still high enough.