ABS Connector Replacey=Robbery?

I'm not looking at them right now, but this is how I remember mine looking, with big holes in the wheel flange so you can reach with a socket extension to the bolts, going from the hub side, through the hub's clear holes, threaded into the mounting.

 

Yeah you're right; looked up my pics. I wasn't taking them off, just doing the a rear brake inspection, scouting it out:



And thinking about the threaded-rod method. Again, this might separate the bearing, and @ASRDogman's method (remove bolts, rotate bearing slightly, then :reinstall bolts from behind to gradually jack it free) would work, without danger of separating it. Still, it depends on being able to coerce the bearing through a few degrees of rotation. Threaded rod as shown is simplest, as long as bearing holds together. Hammer taps after each few turns of the nut would help here too:

 

That methode could seperate the hub. And you'd still need to get the other part off.
It might work, depending on how rusted the hub is to the flange.

If you rotate the hub with a hammer and punch, you can thread the bolts from the back side
against the hub. Putting pressure on it. When you hit it with the hammer, the shock from the hit
and the pressure from the bolts will pop the hub away from the flange. Then tighten the bolts, and hit it again.
After a few of those you can pull it out or it will fall out. Make sure you feet are out of the way!

I've seen people use a slide hammer, air hammer, heat it up, all crazy! You don't need to do that.
I've done a few dozen hubs all the way I described and haven't had any problems with getting them out.

Some tuffer than others though.

But whatever works, works!

 

I took a quick look at mine early on and wondered whether the bolt holes were accessible from the inboard side. I take it you're saying they are, or at least one or two of them.