My 2007 Prius is having starting issues, I recently did a brake actuator job and before that it was starting. I checked the 12v and the voltage is 12.4 and all fuses are good. I don’t understand why it won’t start if someone could please help me.
Was that 12v measured at the jump point under the hood? Do you have any obd2 codes (DTCs) that you can share with us here? FYI : you're are being moderated until you've posted 5 times.
If the no start condition started immediately after the actuator replacement it is probably because something was not connected correctly or broken in the process. There should be some codes when you read the obd2 to help you start investigating. Try again the main hybrid battery orange plug and any connectors you disconnected removing the inverter to reach the actuator.
I can’t see any codes because the car doesn’t turn on and I have tried taking all the plugs and putting them back in but nothing is working
You do not need to start the engine to read codes. You just press the power button twice without touching the brake. Then you read the codes with techstream or another obd2 reader. I assume you used techstream to bleed the brake system after the actuator replacement. Do you get lights at the dash? Or it is completely dead?
Yes I understand how to diagnose the vehicle but if the dash isn’t powering on it isn’t possible correct? I haven’t been able to turn the car on at all to even think about doing a bleeding process, do you think it is due to the abs pump being bad because everytime I touch the brake it runs
Can you describe exactly what happens when you press the power button one time with no pressure on the brake pedal? Next, exactly what happens when you press the power button one more time, still with no pressure on the brake pedal? After the first press, are you able to use the radio? After the second press, are you able to use the turn signals? Wipers? Washers? Does anything appear on the dash? Does anything not appear on the dash that you normally expect?
Nothing happens the only thing that happens is it makes a weird sound like a squealing sound when i try to start and the actuator keeps cycling on
It is good to describe the things that happen as precisely as possible, and exactly which state you are trying. ACC state: one power button push, no brake. ON state: one more power button push after ACC, no brake. "try to start" = READY state: power button pressed with foot on brake. Are you able to try specifically and only ACC state, without trying to start, and report whether the radio can be used? Are you able to try specifically and only ON state, without trying to start, and report whether the turn signals or windshield washers can be used? Do you have a meter to check the voltage of the 12 volt battery?
Were you planning to perform a bleed procedure after changing the actuator? Why not connect a diagnostic tool and go to the ABS brake section's bleed menu and select the bleed function/actuator changed.
I got the 12v checked several times and also used a Toyota true start battery and different negative cable nothing works and as for the on, it doesn’t turn on at all
Is that even possible if the car doesn’t turn on or even go into diagnostic mode I was planning on taking it to a shop to do the bleed procedure as they quoted me 150.
Are you able to attach a voltmeter at the jump point under the hood and measure the voltage excursion as you try pressing the button twice to reach ON mode? Are you able to use the radio in ACC mode? You've given no answer to that yet.
Diagnostic Mode is not needed in order to attach an OBD scanner to the vehicle; as long as you can turn the ignition switch on it should be able to connect and read the ECU.
Make sure again 12v battery is good and has been load tested by a store like Advance Auto, pep boys etc. it’s free. Check the positive post under the hood fuse box and ground reads a 12.3-12.8v with the 12v battery connected. Check the am2 15 amp fuse is not blown. Check the fusible link if it is blown. Check the 5 amp and 120 amp fuses at the HV battery are not blown. Check that the inverter high voltage orange cables are connected in the correct order and all other connectors click. Check inverter for signs of arching, shorting, smoke etc. Remove the actuator connector and try. If dash lights up replace the shorted replacement actuator/abs pump.
I’m sorry but I’m trying to say nothing turns on like no lights no power on dash only windows work and headlights and stuff
I checked all of that and still nothing the brake actuator turns on every time I hit the brake so I’m thinking maybe I got a defected part