2007 with check engine, vsc, abs, and (!) lit up on dashboard

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Does the engine actually run until warmed, then shut down after a minute or two?

Does it eat any oil?

Like a normal seasonal/winter MPG drop, or something else?

Here is the workup for DTC P0441 and P0446 : https://attachments.priuschat.com/attachment-files/2018/04/143457_cip0441.pdf

Have you had a chance to go step by step through the above workup already?

Do you need links for the other workups as well?

Go ahead and post the historical DTCs, it might offer some additional insight.

FYI : you're moderated until you've posted 5 times.

 

Well, of the codes that you have listed, the P3190 is the one that I might focus on. That code indicates that the Internal Combustion Engine produced less power than expected. If the ICE can't run properly, then it can't move the car AND charge the HV battery as well. When the HV battery is low, then performance and mpg drop.

Some possible causes are: weak fuel pump, air intake or exhaust restriction (clogged air filter or catalytic converter), MAF sensor dirty or bad, fuel injector problem, cam timing problem, low ICE compression, bad gas, ignition problem, etc.

Now some of those things SHOULD set other codes, but don't always do so. AND, unless the diagnostic report specifically stated that the hybrid control and HV battery ecu's were checked and didn't have any codes- then you could have other faults in other systems. So you should have all the systems scanned to find if other things are happening.

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You may need an OBD2 reader that can pull the INFs (subcodes) for the above posted DTCs. Which OBD2 scanner are you using?

Here is the workup for DTC P3190 (P3191 and P3193) : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/2054m/cip3190a.pdf

Here is the workup for DTC P0A0F (with INFs 204/205 and 533/534) : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/0a0f204.pdf

Here is the workup for DTC P0A0F with an INF of 238 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/repair%20manual/04pruisr/05/21bpm/0a0f238.pdf

Unlikely if your HV battery is currently an issue, since you don't have any related OBD2 codes (DTCs). Do you notice any change in the HV battery SOC (state of charge) from when you park it and when you start it the next day? Do you see wild fluctuations while driving?

 

how much are you willing to invest?

 

Do you have emissions testing in your neck of the woods?

If you have a laptop, you could pick up a "mini-vci cable", then install techstream (the same diagnostic software dealer technicians use), and save yourself $100+ by not taking it into the dealership.

Assuming the catalytic converter is still OEM, the vehicle must be worth at least 2k, and likely more. Your old catalytic is worth 1k+.

What has the maintenance history been like over the last 9 years and 175k miles? (or 293k if known)

How much oil does it drink between changes, the catalytic converter could be clogged. $130+install, then sell the old for Profit$
Have you ever changed the upstream A/F sensor? (they don't last forever, $100+install)
How about changing the plugs? (some can last for 200k, manual says to change every 120k, $50ish + install)
Have you ever cleaned the MAF sensor, or the HV battery fan? (either could be considered an easy DIY)
The trickiest part could be DTC P0441 and P0446, but either could be an easy fix or even a gas cap sealing issue.

You could use a 'grid charger' to recondition the existing HV battery, but at 300k a new HV battery would last 10+ yrs and be resalable. New OEM HV battery starts around 1650+tax+install, and NEW aftermarket starts at 1600 all-in, DIY install.

 

Given a budget of 500, and your current mpg with no emissions requirements, I would first start by running some detergent (PEA) in the gas tank, then replace the plugs (local retail purchase only), then replace the upstream A/F sensor for 100+ (go with an OEM from the dealer or a denso equivalent), then replace the catalytic converter for 130+ (from canada, then sell the old cat for serious profit), which leave us with the cleaning of the MAF sensor and the HV fan (easy peasy). Check the codes along the way. For DTC B1423, it could be time to service the AC (professionally, aka hybrid ac professional). C0205 left front speed sensor signal malfunction, is it dirty, or does it need replacing.

Skip that greenbean option, and go for a DIY grid charger ($30+), which will balance and recondition the existing "ancient" HV battery.