I was trying to run the Dr. Prius battery test but when I hold the brake and gas down my engine revs and bogs down repeatedly, I was concerned this may cause damage so I did not complete the test; is that normal? I do not recall hearing that when watching a video demonstrating the test. The car is new to me and I have not done a tune up yet, I plan to do that soon but I don't know how much affect that may have. I did get a P0A80 code the other day so I am getting a diagnostic done so I am not super concerned about the Dr. Prius test, just the weirdness with my engine. Thanks
Can you give a little more detail about what the engine is doing exactly? The Prius is throttle-by-wire. Your go pedal is nothing but an input to a computer. When you hold the brake and gas down, this is not like a normal car where the brakes are holding the car stopped and the gas pedal is moving the throttle. In a Prius, there is just a computer saying "hmm, brakes are on and go pedal pressed, owner must want to do battery force charging" and the computer controls the engine RPM for doing that.
Oil, air filter, plugs, coolant, clean IAC, new PCV, new EGR + cooler, clean EGR tube, new intake and probably an oil catch can. I'm also getting a diagnostic on my HV battery tomorrow and having my 12v battery checked. Edit: there are next to 0 maintenance records shown on the carfax report so I am trying to knock everything out in one go. 223,000 miles
Yes, that's what the app said to do. Basically the engine revs up then drops RPM quickly about every other second.
Are you holding the go pedal part way down? All the way down? Moving it any? Does the app show you the charging current in real time while you do this, or does it only give you some kind of report at the end?
Holding both pedals all the way down. The app gives a percent of charge but I didn't make it past that step because of the noise I heard. At the end it gives a report of the battery health but I'm not sure what happens between those two points.
I'm not sure I've ever done that in mine, so I couldn't say how mine acts under those conditions. I've done force charges occasionally, but usually I'm watching the charge rate on a ScanGauge and only holding the go pedal part way down. I'm pretty sure if you push it all the way down, the ECU will go for a higher engine RPM, but it will also limit the output to what the battery can handle. That might show up as the kind of hunting behavior you've described.
Dr Prius does state the engine will slow down and you have to let up and press both pedals several times until the charge percentage shows 100%. It does make noise on a level you are not used to especially with no road noise or radio to drown it out. Overall the P0A80 code is more definitive than the Dr Prius test.
My advice to you is to stop experimenting with this hi-tech hybrid vehicle, lest you want to cause yourself a headache. It has 223,000 miles and no maintenance history; I'd be treating this thing very carefully. Stop bouncing it off the rev limiter.
Ok, I'll watch the video again before re-attempting. Somehow I didn't gather that you had to cycle the gas pedal, I got the impression you just pegged it.
What model year does the video use? Was it a 2010-11, or was it 2012+? I seem to remember that there was a programming change regarding simultaneous brake and gas pedal application with the 2012, as a response to the earlier Toyota Sudden Unintended Acceleration outbreak. The Prius was already better behaved in this situation than other Toyota models, but I was thinking that it still received some change compared to earlier model years. Can others with better memory or documentation clarify this, or straighten out my memory?
In the video they were running the test on a 2010. I just re-watched it and they do mention letting off of the gas he just explained that it was to give the battery a bit of a break during charging.
I have run the Dr Prius tests on my 2012. The forced charging will bring it up to a minimal level just like if you were parked in Ready for long periods. Cycle the pedals and you get more forced charge. There is no practical purpose for forced charging outside the questionable utility of these tests if the hv battery is decent and the engine is not pinging on acceleration with low charge. On the other hand, if your battery is coding, the mpg is down and it discharges at a traffic light, the test may confirm what you don't want to know.
Yeah, I'm sure you're right. I suspected I would have to replace the battery eventually I was just hoping that it wouldn't be so soon. Fortunately I did budget for repairs.