P0A80 P3022 P3023

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Lastarbucks, Apr 9, 2022.

  1. Lastarbucks

    Lastarbucks New Member

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    My gen 3 , 2010 battery died at 217,000 miles.
    I assume P3022 means block 12 is bad. I tried swapping the cells around. I put the old block 12 batteries into block 5. However, doctor prius app is still showing error code in block 12. How is that possible? The bus bars at 12 look good so there is not corrosion. Please help.
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I let the hybrid doctor get me a battery within 3 delta . A rack f cells balanced I think 576.. nice guys too. Send core boxes etc
     
  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Block 1 of a Toyota HV battery always starts where the heavy orange cable connects to the (-) terminal of a module. Block 12 would be the 23rd and 24th module from the correct end of the battery. Perhaps you started counting from the wrong end of the battery.

    On another note....
    What good does it do to move a failed module to another location? That's a lot of work just to still have a failed module in the battery. The car isn't lying to you when it says there's a failure.

    and another note...Did you reset codes after switching everything around? A code is going to stay locked in until its reset. The new code may not show until after driving the car for a bit..
     
    jerrymildred and Lastarbucks like this.
  4. Lastarbucks

    Lastarbucks New Member

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    Yes. I did try to reset the codes. I still get P3022 AND P3023.
    @TMR-JWAP In the Gen 3, the negative cell terminal is the block 1. This is the closest to the ECU.
    Can you drive a prius without fully installing the battery cover and assembled fan modules for a few days? Just to test out how the battery is working.
     
  5. Moomoo69

    Moomoo69 New Member

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    Lord no! Do not drive with the hybrid battery exposed or without the fan working!
     
  6. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Why not sir I was driving around for about a week with Neil metal cover off the sails but I kept the cover on the relays with the high voltage wires outputs going up to the car transmission whatever I had no problems just I was doing this during the end of the winter just about 3 months ago here in North Carolina my battery never even gets warm or I'm not feeling it in the right places I run my hand across the bottom and then when the cells were exposed I'd run my hand across the top of the cells . Never an issue fan was connected duct work hap hazardly in place unclipped black covers over nuts. Tools even fell on. And then on reassembly I only have four bolts holding the battery to the floor of the car so I can whip it in and out in about 18 minutes at any given time fans all reconnected the plugs been given its final waterproofing and everything back there is great and perfect . But is setup for almost instant removal. Hasn't come loose breaking traction with the car sideways so I think I'm okay
     
  7. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    There's many different ways of doing a job....