With a leaking ABS braking issue is there any way to find out which of the 2 assemblies that make up the system (accumulator/MC or pump assembly) is bad? 2010 model.
Yes there are ways to do it Read the codes for one. Then shut the car down move the remote away from the car leave the doors closed after the brake pump stops pumping using mechanics stethoscope and listen for the internal leakage that's generally the culprit The part that goes on the firewall that simulate the strokes or whatever basically a master cylinder is usually seemingly not the culprit It's over there in that assembly that houses the pump and this canister called an accumulator that tends to be where generally the problem is that's also seemingly where all the electronics are that put on the lights and do the dances go figure although the master cylinder stroke simulator whatever you want to call at the part that your pedals connected to can go bad it seemingly would be to me the more rare part to actually go bad how many master cylinders have you replaced on Toyotas in your years of driving them in my 45 years of driving Toyotas I can think of three master cylinders on brake boosted front disc rear drum Corollas of the '70s.
Thanks, that’s interesting. I was assuming the pump assembly was the least likely. My code was C1391, abnormal leak in accumulator. Unfortunately, deafness prevents me from being able to use a stethoscope.
Well maybe the kids or the wife You're just listening for a kind of a hissing noise kind of like what would happen if your pressure cooker was leaking but you can't see the seal like you could on the pressure cooker because it's inside of this big aluminum block. But both pieces can be leaking or can leak down or what have you most of these things I find from salvage cars I buy the both pieces together for like $4,500 bucks out of a car that doesn't have the brake lights on or any funny business going on that anybody can readily tell usually they check this before they completely dismantle the car and make it so the electrics won't turn on anymore. This is why I try to get to these cars before batteries come out and amnesia sets in.
. I cleared the code with my Carista OBD. The brakes seem to work normally except for the pump cycling. The only time the code returns is when I’m at interstate speed. Is there a danger of complete failure if the car is driven in town occasionally until I can resolve whether I want to DIY replace or just get rid of the car?
I drove mine for 2 years with the lights on but the brakes feeling normal on pedal depression they never got hard never became like you needed two feet or extra stopping distance. Then all of a sudden one day I went to put on the brakes and the car felt like one front caliper was working and the rest was pretty much not I even drove it for an afternoon like that to finish up my calls and the next day changed the break actuator accumulator pump assembly whatever it's called bled it manually because I didn't have tech and it's been working great ever since now I have tech and was going to bleed the brakes properly but they working so well I don't want to fool with them stop on the dime collect $0.05 change and keep on going they work that well so I don't mess with them.
No-one can tell you definitively there is no danger. All we can relate is our experiences. Your risk tolerance may differ. I drive Priuses with the pump cycling all the time. I drive slow and carefully. I drive in B mode for max engine braking, and I slow down early. I drive slow on the highway (so everyone hates me ;-) When I want to get really slow, or stop I often use the emergency foot brake (on my car it works manually on the back wheels) If you were close to me and wanted to get rid of your car I wouldn't hesitate to buy it, at the right price. I have never had a complete brake failure. I have had a front wheel brake pad fall completely off the car. Good luck.
Thanks. I’m a goodly distance from you in Arkansas. I may list it here later. Not sure what it’s worth with this problem plus some body damage because my wife of 51 years loves scraping fixed objects like curbs and my riding mower while leaving the garage.
Most of the breaker and salvage yards today are up on this part they generally remove both parts from a car and sell them together for like $500 That's really common now or you buy them both new from the dealer but online and pick up at the dealer and each part is about $700 so you have 14 in the mess something like that or if you walk in and try to purchase and get roped into that price goes up to about probably around 17 or you pay the salvage yard $500 and hope they knew what they were doing when they checked and said this one is good meaning there were no lights on in the car so on and so forth they may be scanned the vehicle before they completely break it and make it so it can't be then those parts are tagged bagged and cataloged.
