My 2016 V has 120,000km and it will sometimes vibrate at idle. This spring I'm planning on doing a full cleaning of the cooler, pipe, and intake plenum. I don't have another car and I'm a little worried about how long the actual cleaning part of the job might take. Is it better to try to source replacement parts and have them cleaned before hand? Or am I just worrying too much. I could set aside a few days to complete the work. I'm planning on replacing the spark plugs and PCV valve at the same time with OEM parts. Anything else I should do for maintenance? Since buying the car last year I've changed both air filters, brake fluid, coolant, CVT fluid, and kept the hybrid battery vent clean. I want the car to last me as long as possible. TIA
You should be able to knock it out in a weekend, easy. Without any any parts preplacement, other than the pliable gaskets on the intake manifold. Even those would likely be fine, but might as well. Prepping helps immeasurably: 1. Amass the tools required. 2. Have both Oxi-Clean and crystalline lye on hand, for EGR cooler cleaning. Also have a white rubber stopper suitable for 21 mm diameter hole (smaller of the two EGR cooler end holes), it'll make caustic solution soaking the EGR cooler much easier. You want to start this soaking process as early as possible, it takes time. 3.In advance: remove the nut and stud on the lower EGR cooler bracket, and leave them off. 4.. Also in advance: remove, clean/lube and reinstall the nut/stud combo at EGR valve, ditto for the bolt going through EGR cooler upper bracket. 5. Remove the engine underpanel, and acquire replacement fasteners for any missing/broken. You may not even need to raise the car, but it's best to be ready. Read through the two EGR cleaning links in my signature, plus the engine oil change link (has tips on engine underpanel removal). Also this: Professional EGR Cleaning Resources | Page 9 | PriusChat
Very helpful tips, Thank you. I'll try to remove that rear EGR bracket soon to make things easier on myself. I'm still worried about the degunking process on the cooler, since it looks harder to mechanically brush clean. But I will follow the tips and hopefully it works out. Now I'm thinking about the catch can mod. It seems popular with third gen owners. I thought it was only necessary on GDI engines. Do you think it's a good idea? This will be a good time to install one.
It's the nut and stud at the lower EGR cooler bracket. Visual aid: 1: EGR Cooler lower bracket nut/stud 2: EGR Valve nut/stud 3. EGR Cooler upper bracket bolt Notes: You will need an E8 Torx socket for the studs. The nuts/bolts are 12 mm socket size. The #1 nut is hard to get a socket and wrench on,, just due to all the stuff in vicinity. Forget what I used,, it did invove a swivel head ratchet, a possibly a 1.5" extension and deep socket. It's got to be just the right length, flexible to get through the forest of hoses and cables, and you're going mostly by feel For the stud at same location (#1) I used a compact 1/4" ratchet, with the E8 Torx socket. It was a bear to break loose, and was stubborn all the way out. Could only accomplish one ratchet click at a time, and I was sweating that I would strip the head on it. Be very patient, and keep the socket firm and square on the stud head. Lube the threads on everything when they're off (light/thorough skim of anti-seize compound, apply and wipe most off), and of course leave the #1 combo off, permanently: ^ leaving this off means you don't have to remove the studs at the connection to the exhaust manifold, and the gasket there will hang up on the studs, not drop down, and be MUCH easier to keep in place after the job, when you're reinstalling. When cleaning the cooler it'd be good to remove the studs, clean lube the thread and reinstall though, just to keep them from seizing down the road. Note also the torque values: The two nuts and one bolt are 15 ft/lb, and the studs are 84 in/lb (aka 7 ft/lb). A 3/8" or even 1/4" torque wrench is suitable for these. One more: the "visual aid" above is a screen-grab from one of the pdf's linked in the EGR tips link in my signature.
I would say, also look at replacing the EGR cooler, I tried cleaning mine when I did the head gasket. It was totally plugged up, found a reasonable priced one, Dorman 886-001 and used it. My time messing with cleaning it vs putting in a new one to get the car back in up and running wasn’t worth it. Also have on have a container to put all the bolts, nuts and clips to keep track of what goes where. Also get some flexible brushes to clean the intake tubes. I used ones for cleaning reusable straws to help get the junk out of the runners.
After doing a bunch of research about catch cans I decided not to install one. Is it necessary to replace the gaskets on the EGR and manifold? Trying to keep this to a budget but if it's definitely necessary I will replace them with OEM. Hopefully I can get this done only buying the cleaning products, spark plugs, PCV valve and E8 Torx socket. If it's really dirty I'll probably clean it up each year. I don't mind spending the time on maintenance.
The EGR components are metal, and quite durable, I wouldn’t replace. DO note their orientation very carefully when removing, maybe take pics for record, or make a sketch. Their holes dimple down in one direction, not sure how important it is to keep it thus. I lost track when first disassembling mine. it’d “probably” be worthwhile to replace all the pliable intake manifold gaskets. I did that mine the second time ‘round. That’s interfacing with: Cylinder head (17177-37030) Throttle body (22271-37010) EGR pipe (25628-28010) Gasket part nos in brackets, do verify. My purchase through Amayama for all of the above was $31.56 CDN, all-in, with shipping, nothing extra. A few years back though. Yeah best to address another day; it’s a sink hole. It is worthwhile. I’ve yet to replace mine. I have removed, cleaned and reinstalled it. IIRC Torque is 15 ft/lb. I cleaned the threads and applied Permatex ThreadLock Blue Oil-Resistant. A 3/8” and 1/4” drive torque wrench would both be handy. Throttle body hold-down bolts are 7 ft/lb IIRC. AKA 84 inch/pounds. Info in my signature.
Thanks Mendel, You're a gem. Now if the warmer weather would hurry up so I could get the job done. In the meantime I'll be getting my parts and supplies together and continue doing as much research as possible.
Socket size is 22, and torque is 15 ft/lb. More info in attached. The Permatex is not per spec, but worked fine.
Worth noting: if you're buying the Toyota PCV valve (and that's a good idea, they're all tuned differently), it comes with threads pre-coated. Something like the Permatex is only needed if you're cleaning/reusing.
Yes, I am a big believer in always using OEM parts and fluids, apart from things like engine oil and brake pads. I even get my oil filters and air filters from the dealer.
