4th generation EGR cooler removal/cleaning (100k service)

Is there a step-by-step for the EGR cooler removal on the 2016 through 2018 models? Is there maybe a procedure on how to clean it without removing it? I have seriously thought about getting a can of compressed air with a small straw nozzle and going in there just to blow crap out...

TL/DR:
Unless there are some magic search terms other than "4th generation Prius EGR cooler removal," there seems to be precious little about the 4th generation on YouTube and in these forums. Using the term "2ZR-FXE" any in any of the searches just brings up nutzaboutbolts' great stuff on the 3rd gen. There's so much more room in those older engine compartments, talk about a hot dog thrown down a hallway!

While the engines are incredibly similar, it's like the same house plan on two different lots, an acre and a quarter acre.

My 2018 Prius 3 is about to hit 100k. I've already changed the spark plugs (and actually saw a slight improvement in MPG) 20,000 miles ago... Toyota had an online sale of 20% off, combined with the dealership discount, I paid only $10 per OEM spark plug.

My 100K service will be to:
• Change the PCV
• Clean the intake manifold (replace the gasket)
• Clean the EGR pipe (replace the silicone and metal gaskets)
• Clean the EGR cooler
• Test the brake fluid and coolant
• Change the oil
• Drain and fill the transmission
• Run the A/C refresher kit and replace the cabin filter
• I cleaned the mass air flow sensor and replaced the air filter at 95k

This will be the last major service on it with the hope that it'll carry it another 100,000 miles without a head gasket going out. Don't laugh! I can dream...

Without the winter blend of 10% ethanol here in California, my P3 typically will get 60 MPG over an entire tank most of the year. With the ethanol blend, it's usually more like 56.5 to 57.5 MPG.

Along with that, I understand the heating/cooling cycles that the gas engine will go through are greatly increased, I am keeping an eye on exhaust gases getting into the coolant. I also understand that, once the coolant starts to go acidic, the head gaskets go bad faster. I've already changed the coolant for both systems at 5 years with pretty good pH and glycol readings.

I will also be doing a drain and fill on the transmission as I did back at 52k. I strictly use OEM parts and fluids (try using the 91945 ZIP code using Toyota's parts website and check out their pricing) except for brake fluid and motor oil. I have been changing the oil every 5,000 miles starting at 27.5k. I learned a big lesson about Toyota's horrible recommended service periods when I checked the dipstick at 27.5k and it was black. I have also learned a lot about the Atkinson cycle engines.

I exclusively use TopTier gasoline with PEA additives and will still add Gumout Multi-Sytem Tune-up every 10K. I will be using Valvoline Restore and Protect just to clean up the low tension piston rings since the engine doesn't continuously run to burn off contaminants like a regular internal combustion engine would.

I will also be switching to my third accessory battery. My car is equipped with a Viofo A129 Plus Duo that utilizes parking mode (which has done incredible things for us, including getting us out of two campus parking tickets!) After my OEM H4 battery lasted about 3.5 years, I went with a 26R battery that I bought at Costco and is made by Interstate. It had higher CCAs but is a traditional lead acid battery. It is starting to go bad under warranty. I will be going with a Walmart H4 AGM battery made by Clarios under the EverStart name. For this model, the battery is in the engine compartment and is not required to be an AGM. I looked at buying a Toyota H4, but they do not offer it in an AGM format as far as I can tell. That is one of the very few things that my favorite Toyota Parts Department will not ship.

I loved the ride of the original Dunlop Ecosave(?) tires although they only lasted 38k. At 62k, the Costco Michelins are still over 5. Tire pressures are checked every second gas tank fill, every 10° of weather change or every month, whichever comes first. I checked the spare tire twice a year. If the tires are hot when I am filling, I typically will add 5 lb of pressure during the winter and 4 lb of pressure during the summer

 

PS I am fully aware of the video linked and mention of this topic in another thread. It does not do the step-by-step that I am looking for.

Removing EGR Help Please | PriusChat

 

@Mendel Leisk - Thank you! While I will still disconnect the EGR line during the manifold removal, I'm leaving that cooler in there! As for the piston rings, that is also good news. My 2012 Prius V had sooooo many problems...

I hope the head gasket problem has died down. I do believe that I have heard of a reference on YouTube to it happening on one of the art deco tail light models, so between 2016 and 2018. Ultimately, the Prius does tend to attract those who do not maintain their vehicles with the same fervor as, say, a 4Runner.

I go through the old oil during my changes and, on two occasions have found chunks of metal over the last 30,000 miles or so. I make it a habit to pry the drain back valve and drain the oil from there. One was probably a good .3mm round and, More recently, a narrow piece 0.75mm long and maybe 0.1mm wide.

I do worry that that first 27,000 miles might have done some permanent damage. I always check the dipstick after somebody else does my oil change, but I was certainly ignorant to monitor the color and level down the road.

Thanks again!