Unknown problem after some work i’ve done, please help

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by ToyotaCoyotta, May 15, 2025.

  1. ToyotaCoyotta

    ToyotaCoyotta Junior Member

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    im confused which one is it, because i took out one connector at the side and 4 bolts before removing throttle body
     
  2. ToyotaCoyotta

    ToyotaCoyotta Junior Member

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    Sorry I didnt understand what you meant
     
  3. ToyotaCoyotta

    ToyotaCoyotta Junior Member

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    Sorry But i didnt understans what you meant
     
  4. ToyotaCoyotta

    ToyotaCoyotta Junior Member

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    im confused which one is it, because i took out one connector at the side and 4 bolts before removing throttle body
     
  5. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    Now I am confused. You have been talking about the EGR valve in this thread. You said you took the EGR valve apart, but you had herd that it was calibrated at the factory. I responded that the EGR valve is not calibrated at the factory, so there is no problem taking it apart.

    Are you now saying that you do not know the difference between the EGR valve and the throttle body? Take a picture of the part that you are taking apart and post it.
     
  6. ToyotaCoyotta

    ToyotaCoyotta Junior Member

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    The problem now seems to be fixed,

    I have bought a used EGR Valve + Cooler and replaced without cleaning them or unscrewing something, the question now is how to properly clean EGR Valve without damaging it
    like I did

    I didnt touch the throttle body, only EGR valve + cooler
     
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  7. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    The egr valve was probably damaged to. begin with and you taking it apart did nothing.
     
  8. ToyotaCoyotta

    ToyotaCoyotta Junior Member

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    Maybe I could have damaged the Cooler because i used with really strong pressure ?
     
  9. ToyotaCoyotta

    ToyotaCoyotta Junior Member

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    Doesnt make sense, look.

    1. Everything was working nice but I wanted to do cleaning before problem appears since its a car i have recently bought

    2. I Bought additional egr valve + cooler and cleaned them ( when cleaning I unscrewed the two bolts of egr valve electronic part, one bolt has broke, inside was spring with bearings) I put back together and went on

    3. I replaced the old egr + cooler with the ones i have cleaned and shiny

    4. when I took off old egr + cooler I decided to check the inside how dirty it was out of curiousity so I unscrewed the two bolts of which one broke again

    5. after puting everything back and starting the car the problem appeared

    6. I deciced to put initial egr cooler + valve (dirty) back thinking I might have done something wrong when cleaning this way damaging the parts, That didnt help because engine was still not running good

    7. I bought another set of egr valve+ cooler and i just replaced them without cleaning or unscrewing anything and this solved the problem.

    I highly believe that by opening the electrical part with bearing spring I might have done something wrong

    When I come back, I can take a video and share it so you understand exactly what I did, ok?
     
  10. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    When you put the EGR valve back together, it probably wasn't completely closed.
     
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    Did you replace broken bolt?
     
  12. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Old egrs get worn ramps. Cleaning it finished it.
     
  13. ToyotaCoyotta

    ToyotaCoyotta Junior Member

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    Update: Now I know what was the issue, I have successfully replaced clean EGR cooler + valve

    It turned out that the mistake was that I left the valve open when I put back the EGR.
     
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  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Yeah, slightly open is the natural result when you have spun the rotor all the way down against a spring, but have to let go at some point as you reassemble the stator over it, the rotor spins back a small way, and then you end up pushing the valve slightly open as you tighten the stator down with the screws.

    If you have the valve off and in your hands at that point, you just push the pintle closed again with your thumbs. In fact, that's a good test that you have a good reassembly with nothing binding: you should be able to push it somewhat easily with your thumbs, but you will feel and hear that you're spinning the rotor inside by doing it.

    More at this post (and even more at those linked from it).

    Of course if the valve is attached to the cooler at that point, you've got no way to push the pintle with your thumbs.

    Wouldn't expect it to matter much if the valve isn't fully closed when you put it back on, because the repair manual suggests the car is always sending pulses in the "toward closed" direction when it doesn't want the valve open, so even if you put it on slightly open, that should be fixed in a split second when you go to start the car.

    But there have indeed been reports of rough starting/running right after putting a not-fully-closed valve back on.

    Might make me think of using a scan tool's active test to explicitly send the valve to step zero before trying to start the car (if I hadn't already pushed it closed with my thumbs).