2007 Prius Bricked by Techstream

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by ZillahG, May 18, 2025 at 1:26 PM.

  1. ZillahG

    ZillahG New Member

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    Hello!

    I had an "engine light on" that my plug-in OBDII reader could not read. So I got Techstream on a Virtual Machine and connected it to my car, I turned my car on fully (ready mode) prior to having my Techstream App connect to the car. It ran for a single second, until the car engine turned right off, and then the Prius Monitor gave me the "engine problem" message before all the lights including the Red Triangle of Death turned on :))))))

    I have NO issues prior to this, I ran the car a few minutes before connecting Techstream in that same parking spot and it worked.

    I think my techstream/laptop might have miscommunicated with the ECUs and completely disconnected my Prius Computers from each other. Why? These are the list of codes I got, after re-running Techstream on a clean install, and connecting to the car before fully turning it on.

    Engine
    U0292
    P1121
    P1116

    Hybrid Control
    P0A1D
    P3000
    P3108
    U0100
    U0111
    U0129
    U0146

    HV Battery Live
    U0100
    U0293

    EMPS
    U0073
    U0121

    All having to relate to lack of communication between the ECU's Engine, Battery, ABS, etc...

    Has anyone had this issue before? Or better yet, how can I repair the Prius System to recommunicate with each other?

    Thanks and Godspeed.
     

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    #1 ZillahG, May 18, 2025 at 1:26 PM
    Last edited: May 18, 2025 at 1:34 PM
  2. ZillahG

    ZillahG New Member

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    I found another thread and discovered the issue was that I fully turned the Prius on before letting Techstream connect!!! Though, the thread does not propose a solution. Ah, the joy of Techstream. | PriusChat
     
  3. ZillahG

    ZillahG New Member

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    Discovered the solution.
    CLEAR THE CODES!!!
    Then check all batteries. Mine weren't as good as before in voltage so I suspect some draining.
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I was just coming here to tell you that you're 12 volt is the problem when you have communication problems on the can bus in a car like this your text stream even though it's hacked and you're using a funny cable and all the nonsense usually will not break a car I'm not sure about the turning on the text screen before the car that doesn't seem right usually I have the car on sitting there ready or sitting there in accessory mode with all the lights on the dash I have text stream up on the cf-13 toughbook with the VCI cable plugged into the USB port and the other end that goes into the OBD2 port in my hand and then I stick that into the OBD2 port and then I look at my screen and then I click on the nonsense connect to text stream or whatever it has to detect the car and blah blah blah throw up the serial number it has to ask me if it has SKS or not and all that and so on and then that's it if tech can't connect to the can bus it's usually not a car problem it's a 12 volt battery problem if you discovered this is usually one of the first discoveries for us owners get to make or hear about if you're 12 volt is not above 12.5 in this AGM group size you're starting to lose voltage get down in the 12.2 and the 12.1 range and you are low and beyond that you might be in all those u codes or whatever they are I don't know those that well I only know the codes that come off the scanner off the MFD have no idea I have to look them up manually it's quicker for me to plug up the scanner and get the real codes I know a lot of those pretty well
     
  5. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    I've not read of techstream bricking a prius before... And sounds like you got it out of being bricked, which raises the question of it ever really being bricked?

    Once you have full power at 13ish volts and ideally a full charge and balance of hybrid voltage battery and reset and see if those codes return, let us know?

    If they do, It points to bad plugs and wires or the boxes they plug into.
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The thread doesn't say much about what dongle was used with Techstream.

    I had a gizmo once built on a cheap J1962 connector with no plating on the pins, and it worked great for a few years, but then got to a point where just physically plugging it into the car (before even trying to send any signals!) would instantly produce a pile of comm errors. The same gizmo built on a slightly more expensive J1962 plug with gold-plated pins doesn't do that.
     
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  7. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Seems to me a lot of these not known manufacturers are just doing whatever they want with these j standards so the number you have for the j standard that they're manufacturing a cable to they've altered wires and pins like just haphazardly see if something would work or not weird stuff like that just kind of makes no sense then they're no longer standards and that's the whole point I guess
     
  8. ZillahG

    ZillahG New Member

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    It was at 11.8v yesterday after techstream, though I checked the diagnostic menu again and it said 14v just now. Maybe this was just a techstream issue.

    I'll keep that in mind. So far I'm good.

    Yeah I have a cheap dongle. At the same time I don't regret it. I will upgrade in the near future based on y'alls experiences with cheap cables. Techstream itself though, for being an old piece of hardware that's janky and expensive, can't be justifying it's price. Like Tom said the cheap ones cut corners. Lesson learned.
     
    #8 ZillahG, May 19, 2025 at 11:47 AM
    Last edited by a moderator: May 19, 2025 at 11:51 PM
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The main thing I ran into was just that the connector was so cheap it used completely unplated pins. It worked great for the first few years, until they oxidized and made poor-enough connections that noise on the comm lines resulted from just having it physically plugged in. Nothing else was changed, and it didn't have anything to do with altered pin assignments or anything.
     
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  10. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    The 14 volts is probably with the car ready no 12 volt battery is going to read 14 volts just sitting there after the car is turned off generally even right after it would be down to 13 volts by the time you got your test meter out and or it would be falling while you're looking at the screen 14 is usually ready take it out of ready mode and the charging stops from the inverter to the 12 volt then you'll be seeing 12 volt realistic voltage in non ready so two presses of the button with the brake not touched all the lights on the dash on an accessory mode now read the 12 volts in any scanner Toyota software included you should see the battery at 12:00 something and probably falling a 10th every few seconds or whatever until it stabilizes it whatever it's going to be at
     
  11. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yes I didn't mean yours necessarily rewired but it seems some of these companies are flying very loose with the j standards it just seems that way it seems it would make it hard to keep the standard a standard by doing things like that I don't see the financial benefit or any reason to do that somebody thought maybe or they tested one car and something kind of sort of worked and they said oh this is the way it needs to be oh boy