2010 Prius still shakes after head gasket job and EGR + intake cleaning

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by infinitepub, May 7, 2025.

  1. wukong sun

    wukong sun Junior Member

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    I'm not throwing out my questions
    His cylinder head gasket has been replaced
    There is still a problem
    I asked him to look at his EGR_ERR data
    Troubleshooting the EGR valve
     
  2. infinitepub

    infinitepub New Member

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    Sorry it's been a few days. Finally got a hold of the borescope and a coolant system pressure tester. In the video I attached you can find the main issue I'm facing (the violent shaking). Like previously mentioned, the shaking is continuous and doesn't go away as seen at 0:10-0:16 seconds at the start of the video.

    I went ahead and plugged the EGR pipe completely off with a flat spade I had. This resulted in a smooth engine idle which I experienced after doing the headgasket and prior to doing the EGR/intake cleaning. There is an intermittent shake that is minor that can be heard at 0:54 seconds. This intermittent shake was the same shaking which lead me to do a deep clean of the EGR system and intake.

    My thoughts as of now... I think there might be an issue with my EGR valve. Plugging the EGR pipe with the spade has replicated the condition of the car prior to my deep clean. Could the reason why my car is now violently shaking after the deep clean be due to some exhaust gas being let back, but a blockage somewhere is causing issues b/c inadequate exhaust gas is being sent back to all 4 cylinders? For example, before the deep clean there was so much blockage that no exhaust gas was coming back which is the same as plugging the EGR pipe completely with a spade. Now that it's clean, some gas is able to pass, but not equally in all 4 cylinders?

    From the 1:00 mark to the end of the video I show the condition of my cylinders and check for leaking coolant. I pressurized the coolant reservoir with 15 psi which is about the same as 108 kPa which is suggested on the cap. All four cylinders seem to not be leaking any coolant after 30 minutes of pressure. As of writing this reply, it has been about 2 hours since I pressurized the coolant system. The pressure still holds at 15psi and there is no indication of leaks.

    tldr: Car doesn't shake when EGR pipe is blocked with spade & runs exactly as it did before doing an EGR & intake deep clean. Coolant system pressure tested for 2 hours and borescope showed no leaks in headgasket.

    Should an EGR valve solve my issue? Please offer your expert opinion before I splurge on a new EGR valve.
    Thank you so much for your time!!!
     
  3. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    By using the putty knife to block the EGR valve off from the intake manifold, you have proven that your EGR valve is stuck partially open when it should be closed. At idle and full open throttle, the valve should be closed, and no exhaust gases should be flowing into the intake manifold.

    Your options are to try to get your existing EGR valve functioning properly or replace it with a used or new valve.
     
  4. wukong sun

    wukong sun Junior Member

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    If you have disassembled the EGR valve, please confirm whether there were any errors in the assembly.
    After I disassembled it, I pressed the valve and it went in and out smoothly. After installing the rotor, it was not smooth when pressed. In the end, I installed it. But I can't tell what's going on.
     
  5. infinitepub

    infinitepub New Member

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    Thanks! Will be taking it apart to see if it's salvageable.
     
  6. infinitepub

    infinitepub New Member

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    Thank you, I'm hoping the EGR valve is salvageable bc a new one is about $180. Do you happen to know the part number of the E8 torx stud that runs through the EGR valve? I accidentally stripped the top of it.
    Screenshot 2025-05-13 at 7.12.29 PM.png Screenshot 2025-05-13 at 7.13.04 PM.png
     
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  7. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You don't need to replace the stud. Screw it in all the way until it bottoms out, then back it
    out a full turn. The nut will provide the tension to keep it in place.
    Then next time you remove the nut, either it or then will come out loosely.

     
  8. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    ^ +1. I do not think you need to buy a new stud. I would screw it in finger tight. Then use the nut to tighten up on the valve.
     
  9. wukong sun

    wukong sun Junior Member

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    It's not a big deal if this screw is missing, as the EGR is already fixed with many screws.
    I haven't had this screw since I bought a second-hand car.
     
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    #30 Mendel Leisk, May 15, 2025
    Last edited: May 15, 2025
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  11. infinitepub

    infinitepub New Member

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    I ordered a new EGR valve assembly straight from toyota and put it in today. The problem still persists and I'm not sure what else it could be. Blocking the EGR pipe still remedies the issue. Anyone know of something else I could try?
     
  12. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    I would look for a bad or missing gasket either where you are blocking egr flow or on the valve or cooler.

    There is also a specific direction for some of those gaskets.
     

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  13. infinitepub

    infinitepub New Member

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    All gaskets are new, fitted properly, and there's none missing.
     
  14. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Then you have a hole in the cooler, pipes or valve. It makes better sense one of the gaskets are the problem or a bolt is loose if your flow blocking is solving the issue.

    When you have checked everything and the problem remains, one of the assumptions is false.

    Another test is the egr step test while monitoring map pressure with Techstream. It forces the egr open and close while in maintenance/inspection mode.
     

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    #34 rjparker, May 23, 2025 at 9:25 PM
    Last edited: May 23, 2025 at 9:47 PM
  15. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Does the new egr have this number embossed in it?
    IMG_8359.jpeg
     
  16. wukong sun

    wukong sun Junior Member

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    I have a similar problem. The idle speed is stable and there is no shaking. Once the high-voltage battery starts to charge, it will start to shake.

    It is the same when driving at low speed. If you step on the accelerator, there will be no shaking. You can't feel it when driving at high speed.

    In the above shaking, as long as you step on the brake, it will return to normal. I suspect it is a circuit problem.
     
  17. infinitepub

    infinitepub New Member

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    Yes, my new EGR has the same number
     

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  18. infinitepub

    infinitepub New Member

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    Hmmm, I'll triple check again if it's the gaskets, but I swear they're on right and not blocking. There certainly isn't a hole anywhere and I torque all the nuts to spec. Will check gaskets in the morning b/c I don't have the energy to clamp the hoses and pull that EGR out again

    Will look into egr step test too
     
  19. infinitepub

    infinitepub New Member

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    My prius does the shaking when the engine is idling. I'll try to pump the breaks like you say. I don't feel comfortable driving just yet because I don't want to keep the car in a prolonged shaking state.
     
  20. infinitepub

    infinitepub New Member

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    Is there such a thing as a faulty EGR valve command. For example, is the computer telling the EGR valve to remain open when it shouldn't be during idle which is the cause of my issue? If so, how can I test for this?