2008 Prius will NOT move + Code P0A90 Drive Motor “A” Performance

This is what you get when a dingbat is working and looking at something it's been a half an hour digging a screwdriver into three holes rather than showing the inside of the transmission bell housing and I'm doing the five or six 12 mm bolts and letting the plate fall off trying to see what's been slinging around in there and getting shredded it should be some silver or something somewhere that shows what helped to grind up the metal or aluminum should be in the bell housing edges or something and what's behind that plate when you dump it out.? I'm assuming this is what happens when you keep driving with the rattle going on into Oblivion you're not smart enough to turn the car off or what have you your mind won't allow it or something like that even our 2013 Prius persona which rattled itself until it threw a rod the torque plate sitting in the yard and perfect condition and I have the one off to JDM motor in the same condition sitting next to it and that engine threw a rod through the side of the block and was completely ruined everything else in the engine was in beautiful condition by looking at it camshafts everything else that rotated didn't even look like they had 190,000 miles on them.

 

Is that not the vvti valve in the picture that controls the oil going to the cam phaser? I'm not positive of this but that's what it looks like and the PA 090 or whatever that's the problem with the DC to DC converter which charges the 12 volt battery if I'm not mistaken so then when you ready your car right now and nothing started are you seeing the normal 13.5 to 14.5 going to the 12 volt battery? If so then it would seem the DC to DC converter might be working not sure why it's reporting it's not or maybe because of the grinding and the problem in the transmission the DC to DC converter can't function properly not positive of that but you will get the sub code I imagine at some point and see the areas you need to be looking in usually when this happens I just change the inverter because it's a pain in the nice person to get the DC to DC converter out of the bottom of the inverter and they're so plentiful they're almost free but that DC to DC problem maybe because of the grinding business whatever is going on possibly in the transmission. But if it's putting out the right voltage I would say wait till everything is done with the grinding and all that is sorted and see if that just goes away.

 

I'm really interested in what you see when you pull your transmission back or your engine forward or whatever has to go on here I hate doing this because I have to take the drive axles out and all that nonsense I'd rather pull the engine out practically and leave the transmission and all sitting in the car with the drive axles connected and so on me personally I have an electric voice I can almost pull the engine out quicker than I can or lift it up quicker than I can undoing all the drive axles and having all that stuff hanging it seems like anyway I obviously haven't had to take the transmission out of any of these Prius. So I'm very interested to see what's going on with the torque plate and I know what it looks like I've seen them apart I just can't imagine what is going on to cause all this grinding rattling whatever is happening whether it's right there or further in the transmission is basically what I'm trying to see here hear about.

 

So when the second video where the car doesn't sound quite as bad and you show the purple bar or the magenta bar down at the bottom what would happen if you put the car in gear stepped on the gas and tried to force charge it will the engine get louder like it was in the first video or will it smooth out and start charging the battery? Just curious

 

I was looking at the video similar to this or a guy had the same maybe the same guy and he was pulling metal shavings out of the side cutouts where the flange of the transmission bolts up to the engine and had similar damage behind that output shaft of the transmission so obviously very limited clearance there so I don't know if those springs and pieces of the springs popped out and we're grinding away against that back area behind that output shaft and then got shaved in the little curls and they settled in those cutouts on the transmission flange it but like three and 9:00 or whatever it is there positions are and he was pulling those pieces out but he didn't say whether that was shards or shrapnel of aluminum or steel it was very silver looking so tends to look like aluminum to me but I know the springs aren't aluminum so I guess he pulled it apart very fresh before any of those shavings started to discolor or turn Rusty or whatever would happen and then he showed his springs when he turned the camera around and they were in pieces every one of them he was pulling out sections of maybe one two possibly three coils out of the what five or six that are in the spring on all three of them and then basically the video ends.

 

I don't know I might quit running it One bars no worry not for a couple of weeks it'll still start the car it'll crank the car whether it starts or not is another story so I guess engine or something is coming out transmission whatever

 

Where are you looking to find the subcodes?

I don't see in the repair manual where the crankshaft sensor is implicated in the P0A90 DTC.

The HV control ECU monitors the energy balance of the hybrid vehicle motor (MG2) system. If the HV control ECU detects a malfunction in the amount of electrical energy while the MG2 charges or discharges electricity, it illuminates the MIL and sets a P0A90 DTC.

Seeing as the MG2 is directly involved with this DTC, I think you are continually hoping against hope, trying to start the car to charge the HV battery, all the while causing further damage, grinding up whatever is broken inside.

You should just focus on repairing what is broken, then deal with the HV battery after that.

 

The ap200 will give you the sub code immediately for $68 I use it everyday almost pulls the three digit sub code immaculately so damn but older scanners yeah they they won't do it that seems to be factual. But the AP does it Toyota does it I am shocked the $1,700 scanner does it but I can't remember what brand it is and I don't want to look back most of them above $400 should read some codes $400 and made by modern manufacturers not a $400 6-year-old snap on necessarily it can get tricky.

 

I have the work up sitting right here in front of me for the three subs and you're not going to be fixing that without a complete teardown of the transaxle and there's a bunch of thrust washers and spacers and a bunch of measuring to do and all kinds of fun stuff not happening when the rebuilders do this they have go no go gauges and jigs and fixtures set up to make this go fairly reasonable doing this in the field like in Africa or in your carport I'm going to be a lot of fun measure three times make sure it's accurate order the shims the shims come you made a mistake got to do it again wind up with a bunch of shims he can't send back and so on or it can be that not saying you can't get it right but why there's millions to get for near nothing at least in my part of the world and I'm in the USA these are 20 year old cars in the grand scheme of thing they're pretty much worthless except to a few outliers us folks here on this list and a few others but I've just read the two work-ups or the three rather and yeah they'll be seriously involved considering you can just go snatch another transmission almost guaranteed not to have that problem because this problem you look over the years it's not been a very regular thing. But if this kind of thing is fun and you enjoy it well there you go it'll be really fun I did this to a manual transmission way back in the day never again that was like a Toyota w58 5-speed.

 

Usually on these newer scanners you have to go into the next menu to see the sub code it'll be down there in a list I'll try to post a picture of one from like an autel. I didn't see nine I didn't think but I'll have to look again I was just looking in the manual physical paper manual right in this business and also looking at the torque plate which is like no information on at all Mount the torque plate make sure it's a line that's about all you get

 

Those suggestions are crowd-sourced. It's generally not really useful as most people reporting "fixes" are just firing the parts cannon, and if they should get lucky, one of the parts might fix the problem. However, they don't know which one fixed it, so they just mention all the parts they changed.

You need to find out how you access freeze frame data and look for the Detail Code X fields within.