After Gasket repair, got "Check Hybrid System..." error

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by adrtho4, Jun 24, 2025 at 6:48 PM.

  1. adrtho4

    adrtho4 Junior Member

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    ... and not the car won't even start.

    I've replaced the Gasket, Water Pump, PCV valve, and I cleaned the EGR. I followed the gasket masters video. I've checked, double checked, triple checked, quadrupled checked ALL of the connections. Nothing is loose, nothing is not connected.

    I went to start her up this morning after getting the the cowl back on and that's when I saw the error. I know there is a faint buzz sound in the back. I don't know if that's due to the 12v battery being low or the hybrid system going out. I checked the fuel and I have ample fuel in the car. I unplugged the battery, the orange pin in the back, and disconnected the large wire with the white clip for 10 or so minutes, plugged things back in, and the same error persists.

    Using my OBII scanner, I see a cylinder misfire, but the engine didn't turn over so this may be a false positive. Looking at the error, I went and used the old coils. Still the hybrid error, then used the old spark plugs, just to check if the engine will turn over, still the same thing so I've ruled out the spark plugs and coils despite what the obii scanner said.

    I checked the fuse box, there are no burnt fuses.

    So either this is the inverter that's the problem, the hybrid battery that's the problem, or the 12v battery that's the problem. I don't have a batter tester so I guess the only thing I can do is see if my neighbor can jump the car. If it turns over then I guess the 12v batter is the problem.

    Could any of you recommend anything else to try? I ordered a bluetooth obd scanner so I can use the dr prius app to see if the hybrid batter is faulty, but I think I need the car engine to turn over and run for me to test that.

    All that work for the head gasket and now this thing lol.

    At a loss.
     

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  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I agree that getting a better scan tool is a good move. Dr Prius would not have been my first choice, because it doesn't give you full access to what the car is trying to tell you. It has a lot of very special functionality for people preening their traction batteries, but otherwise gives only a very limited subset of trouble code and live data access.

    The Autel AP200 is an option that has been getting decent reviews around here.

    Definitely if "CHECK HYBRID SYSTEM" is showing on the MID, you are chasing shadows when using any scan tool that doesn't show you the hybrid system codes. Looking at engine codes isn't going to be much help.

    Because there are so many possible hybrid system trouble codes, it is definitely way early to be telling yourself things like "either this is the X or the Y or the Z." It takes more work than that to narrow a couple hundred possibilities down to three.

    While we're waiting to find out what your trouble codes really are, and even though you've already said all the connections are done up right, you might search around here for the code P0A0D and how that gets fixed. It crops up pretty often after people have been doing extensive work, even when they're positive they've done everything up right. So maybe it's worth thinking it might be that ... while waiting for a good scan tool to arrive.
     
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  3. adrtho4

    adrtho4 Junior Member

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    I ordered an NEXAS NexLINK Bluetooth OBD2 scanner. I saw that one was compatible with the dr prius app, which I saw on a search while researching this fault. Should I just cancel that order and order the Autel? And yeah I'm just doing some "basic" troubleshooting. Until I get a tool that can tell me what's going on, I'm just guessing which isn't wise to do. Kinda in panic mode atm as this is my only vehicle and I need a car.
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Yes, I think the Autel will be more all-around useful.

    If you're in a hurry, and while you don't yet know what codes you really have, it might just be worthwhile to proceed as if maybe you could have a code P0A0D, and look for the many threads around here describing what to do for that.
     
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  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Get the Autel
     
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  6. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    My persona did same buis at an engine change.my issue was a very trashed HV battery changed w rebuilt imed started and ran 20k and blew second engine
     
  7. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You should charge the 12v battery for several hours. After you disconnect the charger,
    wait 30 minutes then check the voltage. I should be at least 12.6v.

    Are you SURE you pushed the safety plug on the hybrid battery, (orange thing) all the way in,
    then slide it to the right, then press the lever toward the battery?????

    It's a common issue for that plug to not be installed correctly.

    Won't hurt to check... The 12v battery is another issue.

     
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  8. adrtho4

    adrtho4 Junior Member

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    I'm sure I've pushed the safety plug into the hybrid battery all the way in. But I can check again
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Make especially sure of the pair of small contacts that don't mate until you push the handle sideways.
     
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  10. adrtho4

    adrtho4 Junior Member

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    Yup just checked a few minutes ago.

    That I did. I at least know that's not the issue.

    Update: Had neighbor use his van to jump the prius. The prius still didn't enter Ready mode and the Check Hybrid System warning is still displaying with no engine turnover. This is def pointing strongly towards the hybrid-side issues. BUT still need a good obdii tool to arrive to confirm this. To really be sure about the 12v battery, might just replace it with a good one from Autozone. Will need to uber there and back but hey, gotta do what I gotta do.

    In the intrim, I could check the inverter HV input voltage too insure that the inverter is getting power. Gotta rule everything I can out.

    Might also invest in a mini vci and techstream software.
     
  11. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    If you have to just jump it to get it to start, the 12v battery is weak or dead.
    The first thing you should do is CHARGE it up full, like overnight.

    Then you must clear the codes. I "think" that leaving the 12v battery negative cable disconnected
    while charging may reset the codes.


     
  12. adrtho4

    adrtho4 Junior Member

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    That's just it though. It starts just fine without the jump but the engine doesn't turn over and the car doesn't enter the ready state. It turns on, I see the warning error. The ac works so there's that. lol
     
  13. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You said you had to jump it to get it started....

     
  14. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    I missread.... sorry
     
  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    That's exactly to be expected. The power management control ECU is waking up, going through its normal checklist, finding a reason not to go READY, telling you the reason with a trouble code, and not going READY.

    That's the exact way it's supposed to behave. Now to just read its trouble code(s). There are a couple hundred. It's not something to guess at.
     
  16. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    It might be useful to describe what was disconnected during the hg job. Was the ac compressor unplugged? Were the inverter cables removed?

    A common failure quickly diagnosed with a capable code reader is a high voltage isolation fault, typically caused by the ac compressor's high voltage connections getting wet or dirty.
     
  17. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    Have you checked all the sensors that was disconnected in the HG process? Crank position sensor? Cam sensor?

    I’m curious at what is the issue…
     
  18. adrtho4

    adrtho4 Junior Member

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    This was the exact vid I followed while replacing the head gasket.



    The job in total for me took about 8 hours. Only because I went really slow, double checked everything before I did anything to ensure I was going it right. Labeling everything, etc...


    I unplugged all of the sensors on the coils, disconnected the egr, disconnected the oil pressure, crank position, and o2 sensors, as well as the water pump, knock sensor, throttle body, and ac compressor.

    I put in fresh engine coolant and topped off the oil. The coolant is no longer draining. Again, the AC works. I honestly don't think the head gasket replacement is a contributing factor to this issue but what I'm seeing may be an entirely new issue.
     
    #18 adrtho4, Jun 25, 2025 at 7:40 AM
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2025 at 7:48 AM
  19. adrtho4

    adrtho4 Junior Member

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    See above for which cables were unplugged. I had all of the cables draped over the right side after they were all removed. Everything was done in my garage and nothing got wet.
     
  20. adrtho4

    adrtho4 Junior Member

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    Right. Well I'm just waiting for the scanner to arrive. Still I'm going through and checking other options and eliminating those i.e. cables not properly seated or disconnected, 12v battery having a charge, fuses aren't blown. It's not so much guessing but just systematically narrowing down the fault.