Wrapping stock intake with tinfoil bubble and then heat resistant wrap?

Your using your cabin heat exchanger like a small radiator. As I stated in post #15, you'd see at least a 2x+ improvement by manually toggling the cooling fans in the engine compartment. Larger mass radiator and two giant fans.....

Any performance / fabrication shop can do both for you...

 

Why would it take forever to warm-up in the winter? Did you remove your thermostat or jam it in the open position? That car should only take about 5 minutes to warm up.
Please re-read what I posted in #15 more carefully. There's no need to be insulting, I'm just making suggestions so you can achieve your goals.......

 

That's pretty straightforward: if you set cabin heat to high it'll help drop engine coolant temp.

 

1. NO; it wouldn't - thermostat opens up @ around 180F. Check your coolant pathways with the thermostat closed!!! Coolant loops through your cabin heater core but doesn't go to the radiator until it gets up to around 180F.

2. It's easy to modify the fan control temperature sensor. You just need to figure out the sensors resistive trip point, do some math and place the outcome resistor value in parallel. If you want it reversible, just wire it in as a pigtail connector.

Don't dismiss other people's ideas; just because you think your smarter than everyone else............ Some people may actually know more than you......

 

When someone tells me "engine bay heat" I take that literally; meaning cooling down the engine bay - NOT engine coolant. The discussion was wrapping the intake manifold to avoid heat soak. Heat soak would be external and environmental (area around the intake manifold). So you can easily see my confusion.......

 

I guess you can use 'redline' to mean whatever you choose it to mean; it just doesn't help other people understand you.

In fact the heat will transfer at the same rate (for a given fan speed) for any temperature setting from HI down to a few degrees above the current cabin temp. The air mix door is sent to max hot whenever the setpoint is more than a little above the cabin temp, and only begins to modulate when the cabin temp is getting close to setpoint.

But higher rates of heat transfer go with higher fan speeds.

 

This thread has been very entertaining. I can't wait to see where it leads to the rest of today and then tomorrow.

 

Some people just do not understand how the engine cooling system works in their car.

Since this thread is so entertaining to me, I wanted to add the following:
There are people that do not know the purpose of a thermostat in an engine cooling system. Here is a post made on August 1,2023 in a different thread made by a member (whom I will not name) of this forum:

 

That may be what it means to you, but to others it has a much more specific meaning.

This is easy to check by watching the air mix servo while changing the temp setting. There isn't anything else that changes the heat exchange into some other creature.

What's different about HI is it will treat the setpoint as higher than the cabin temp no matter what the cabin temp is. A setting of 85 will begin to modulate the air mix back as the cabin temp gets close to 85, but for lower cabin temps that are not close to the setpoint, the door stays at max hot.

 

The first sentence from the link you provided. "The redline is the maximum engine speed at which an internal combustion engine or traction motor and its components are designed to operate without causing damage to the components themselves or other parts of the engine." The third sentence in the link is "Redlining is riding or driving an automotive vehicle above the redline." That is pretty much the same as the link that ChapmanF posted in post #57.

So your use of redline in post #53 (Literally anything over +2200 RPM in lower gears in high rpm, redline is just higher than average operating RPM.) is very different then the link you posted to.