My version of Li-ion modules for Toyota/Prius NiMH

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Vencedor, Sep 19, 2025.

  1. Vencedor

    Vencedor New Member

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    A year ago I met the owner of a Toyota Auris hybrid who challenged me to make something to adapt lithium to his car, and as the owner of a lithium battery manufacturing company, I accepted the challenge.

    I was already familiar with NextPower Cell, but in Europe (I'm from Spain), it's almost impossible to find. I bought a couple of individual modules to see how they did it, but I didn't like either the cell type or their construction.

    I decided on 21700 high-discharge Li-ion batteries with copper screws. After passing all the tests required to be sold in Europe (CE and IEC), this is the result.

    We come from this thread
    Lithium or sodium for replacement | Page 5 | PriusChat
     

    Attached Files:

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  2. Vencedor

    Vencedor New Member

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    we were discussing this project in another thread. I'm leaving a screenshot of what I'm responding to in this message.

    The car only measures voltage every 12 1.2V series. If that isn't a problem, it isn't in my version.

    Many have criticized me in other forums regarding the lack of balancing and the risk of the cells exceeding 4.2V. The truth is, this is the result of not understanding everything that's happening overall.

    Project Lithium uses Lifepo4 technology because it's safer than Li-ion. This safety comes from its lower energy density, which makes it safer compared to other technologies, but it has certain problems. Lifepo4 has a very long lifespan, but its maximum discharge is about 2C (if a battery has 10Ah, its maximum discharge is 20A). The car can demand up to 100A for a few seconds of discharge and about 50A for charging. It's simply a technology that can't tolerate the usage it's being put to. Furthermore, the voltage doesn't match. An original module has a nominal 7.2V, while LiFePO4 has a nominal 3.2V. You can either use 2S and get 6.4V, or 3S and you end up with 9.6V.

    LiFePO4 has another problem: it doesn't tolerate overvoltage well. When exposed to overvoltage, the battery tends to swell and even explode, something that doesn't happen to Li-Ion. Plus, Project Lithium modules don't respect the car's cooling system.

    The bottom line is that Project Lithium's bad reputation stems from insisting, insisting, and insisting on a "safer" technology, which ceases to be safe when they demand 5 times what the battery can offer.

    Now my version: My idea was to create a cheaper replacement for the original Toyota replacement, not to improve fuel consumption, not to make the car more responsive, nor to create a BMS system with active/passive balancing. I just wanted a cheap replacement.

    Seeing the problems Project Lithium had, I decided on Li-ion. Why?

    1st: It matches the voltage perfectly. An original module is 7.2V (6 cells of 1.2V). Li-ion has a nominal voltage of 3.6V, 3.6*2 equals 7.2V. Perfect fit, no problems with the BMS.

    2nd Discharge: 3P of 21700 cells rated at 50A deliver a peak discharge of 150A with a capacity of 12Ah. The car requires a maximum of 100A, so the margin is healthy.

    Furthermore, since the cells are cylindrical, the module has vents both at the bottom and top, allowing air to flow through while respecting the car's cooling system. Tested during the Spanish summer, and with the temperature sensor inside the module, it never exceeded 45°C.

    Regarding the danger of not having a balance, a well-made battery doesn't need any kind of balancing, and cheap plates like the ones that could fit inside the module are so poor and slow that, in my experience, they damage more than they fix. My project wasn't about creating a new BMS; that would only make the project more expensive and prevent any workshop from wanting to install it.

    It would be nice to be able to upgrade your new car with that technology, yes. But it's not necessary in this case. Since the voltage curves of Ni-Mh and Li-Ion are the same, if there were any errors, they would pop up just like they do in the original battery. I've been testing for months without any errors precisely because they meet all the above requirements.

    Furthermore, Li-Ion doesn't explode, burn, or combust under overvoltage. For example, this appears in a datasheet.

    9.1 Overcharge test
    Test method: Cell is to be discharged at a constant current of 0.8A to 2.5V. The cell is then to be charged with 20V and 18A. Charging duration is to be 7 hours.
    Criteria: No fire and no explosion.
    Overcharge test must be performed with the UL1642 standard.

    For all these reasons, it infuriates me at the bad reputation this type of project has received due to poor chemical decisions from the start.
     

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  3. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    I have copied and pasted the posts from the other thread into this thread so that everything is together.

     
  4. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Seems like high energy density like lithium-ion equals more safety issues not less? Maybe you're saying its a more reliable high energy density for this application? But in terms of a fire that destroys the car I always thought the higher the energy density the greater the risk?
     
  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    So we're yo get one?? I'll run the shiet out of it.
     
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  6. mudder

    mudder Active Member

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    This is a false equivalency. NiMH's end of charge behavior is drastically different from lithium. Specifically, NiMH cells can 'perpetually' turn excess charge energy into heat, whereas lithium cells cannot.

    We aren't criticizing you, we're advising you that safety issues exist with your product as described (which I will do in more detail below).

    Many LiFePO4 ('LFP') cells can handle more than 2C.

    While I agree NexPower's V1 through V2.x cells were undersized for traction batteries, they could probably still handle at least 20C.
    I certainly agree with you that NexPower used their LFP cells beyond the manufacturer's specified C rating.

    Right, which is why NexPower created a 2xBlade (i.e. the width of two OEM blades). This allows a 5S LFP 2xBlade to approximate two 6S NiMH blades.

    The bigger issue with LFP is its REALLY flat midband voltage curve (e.g. from 30% to 70% SoC). This makes it difficult to estimate Voc->SoC.

    I agree LFP cells don't tolerate overvoltage very well.
    But this is also true for ALL lithium chemistries (including LFP, LCO, NMC, LTO, LiS, etc).
    In fact, of the commercialized lithium chemistries, LFP tolerates overcharging 'the best' (but still not well).

    The short answer here is that all lithium chemistries are damaged by overvoltage. That's why a per-cell BMS is absolutely critical for safety in lithium systems.

    I don't think NexPower exceeded the LFP cell's rated charge/discharge by 5x.
    In my estimate, they were more like 1.5x. Your point still stands, though.

    If your only design goal is 'cheap', then I suppose little effort was spent on 'safe'?
    A lithium pack without a BMS is not going to age well.
    I recently worked with another company who defended their lithium product's lack of BMS by saying "it will last at least until the warranty expires"... their warranty period was just one year. Yikes!

    Which specific cell make and model are you using? Or what specific chemistry is it? Note that your answer is irrelevant because ALL lithium cells require a BMS when sold as products to consumers. However, knowing your cell chemistry will at least let me advise you on exactly how dangerous what you're doing is.

    OK, but what happens when a cell fails and the OEM BMS doesn't catch it until the cell goes into thermal runaway? This is the exact issue I harped on for months with NexPower's lack of BMS.

    IIRC, Toyotas can easily pull 150 amps.
    In my reverse engineering, I note that the OEM current sensor in a Gen3 Prius can measure up to 205 amps of assist. Seems odd that Toyota would go through the additional engineering effort to measure 205 amps if they only ever pull 100 amps (as you claim).
    I am not a Toyota person, so I leave the actual current values to those who know in this community.

    This is only the case when the cells are new, and even then it's not guaranteed. That's why you need a per-cell BMS with supervisory control.

    While a well-made battery doesn't require high current balancing, per-cell balancing is absolutely required to handle cell aging/heating/etc. Typically you only need C/100 passive balancing on a well made pack.

    I don't understand your statement. Please elaborate.

    It would also make your product safe (if properly implemented).

    You haven't convinced me that your lithium pack is safe without a BMS.
    A properly designed BMS is required for safety on all lithium batteries sold to consumers.

    No, this isn't the case. "Testing for months" isn't long enough. Think about your customers ten years from now. What's going to happen when those cells degrade at different rates for a decade? The OEM NiMH BMS will only alert the driver when a 1.2 volt delta is measured. Please watch this video I made last month for a better explanation, including example scenarios the NiMH BMS won't catch:


    Please post the datasheet so I can explain how you are misinterpreting what they're saying.
    NMC lithium cells will absolutely go into thermal runaway if you overcharge them.

    Please send me your cell and I will record a video of it going into thermal runaway. I have all the test equipment to do this safely.

    Sorry science infuriates you...
    ...as I said at the onset, we are trying to educate you as to why your product is unsafe as described.
     
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  7. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    It's for EU not for the so called "new world." And I'd love to see proof that EU certified this product for sale. I mean why not a link to buy if OP isn't lying about EU certification?
     
    #7 PriusCamper, Sep 19, 2025
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2025
  8. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Well at least if it catches on fire it's in the back of the car and I'm way in the front all these electrics burning the batteries go the length of floor pan. Open the windows pull over get out take fone and video
     
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  9. mudder

    mudder Active Member

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    @Vencedor, any thoughts/response to the concerns I outlined on Friday? Maybe you don't work weekends?
     
  10. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    "Regarding the danger of not having a balance, a well-made battery doesn't need any kind of balancing"

    :eek::eek::confused::confused::confused:

    I'm buying a bunch of Apple MBPro batteries and hook them up in series and get rid of my GREAT
    Newer Technolgy Sodium ION battery and use the older lithium Apple batteries!!!(y)

    It will be cheaper, lighter, and smaller! (y)(y)(y)(y)(y):whistle::whistle::whistle::whistle:
     
  11. Prodigyplace

    Prodigyplace 2025 Camry XLE FWD

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    Right behind the driver, with the back seat materials to add to the resulting cabin fire. Not a good scenario.
     
  12. Vencedor

    Vencedor New Member

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    Working on a version with a BMS and balancing, the battery can't be made in one piece. But 2/3 modules can be made, each with its own BMS and active balancing.

    I hope to have a version in two weeks.
     
  13. mudder

    mudder Active Member

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    If you outline your BMS strategy before designing it, I'll let you know if your plan is unsafe. Unfortunately, I'd need to look at the finished product to determine whether it's safe... but I can certainly tell you beforehand if something is unsafe. My goal here is to prevent you from wasting your time designing something you think is safe, but isn't.
     
  14. Vencedor

    Vencedor New Member

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    Divide the 56S into 2/3 groups to use commercial BMSs (up to 32S)

    https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005006153585201.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.4.1f59626f9jSjmj&aem_p4p_detail=202510011505126587220080414740009862244&algo_pvid=c7e71826-352c-46de-9733 -6af194aec9fb&algo_exp_id=c7e71826-352c-46de-9733-6af194aec9fb-3&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%22 290%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22search%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%2155.68%2 125.35%21%21%21454.90%21207.11%21%4021038df617593563128481998e8c94%2112000036010953540%21sea%21 ES%210%21ABX%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3Ae48a452d%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895%3BpisId%3A500000018 7636413&curPageLogUid=v2t1nMyWLytD&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005006153585201%7C_p_origin_prod%3A&search_p4p_id=202510011505126587220080414740009862244_1

    This type of product. This protects you against overcharging and overdischarging, allows for individual cell balancing, and allows you to limit use at low temperatures.
     
  15. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    That's great to hear... Would love to support that! If we had an affordable open-source BMS with an app that would allow us to read/write code there would be almost no limits to what kind of aftermarket battery packs we could use. Of course I bet Toyota has lots of authentication pitfalls buried in their source code that are going to light up the dash board in warning lights in confounding ways... Honda is way friendlier to hacks and spoofs than Toyota is.
     
  16. Vencedor

    Vencedor New Member

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    I don't intend for it to communicate with the car, nor do I think it's necessary. It will work in parallel, allowing the user to review battery data and ensure everything is within the car's normal values.
     
  17. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Yes, that makes sense at first... But if you're successful there could be some really interesting additional opportunities at a later date. :)
     
  18. mudder

    mudder Active Member

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    Without communicating with the car, how do you intend to tell the OEM Toyota computer to stop charging/discharging a too full/empty pack?
    Relying on your customer to stay in the safe operating area is a recipe for disaster.

    My LiBSU PCB will be mechanically identical to the existing BSU, but won't contain an onboard BMS. Instead, it will have multiple open source serial protocols with reference open source hardware/firmware designs, thus allowing anyone to bring their own battery and/or BMS. I will probably also sell an open source plug-and-play BMS for DIY crew, which will essentially be page2 in my existing LiBCM schematic (albeit with serialized isoSPI, rather than my existing single parallel isoSPI bus).

    My goal with LiBSU is to allow 3rd party lithium battery companies to use my LiBSU product to make their products safe. In a parallel universe, even NexPower would use LiBSU... but I'm not sure Jack would ever get onboard. One of the latest BMS-less lithium blade products I recently found has an external 0.1" header with per-cell voltage taps... which makes it compatible with LiBSU.

    I don't intend to design an app for LiBSU, but it will have a USB serial interface for data logging, etc. I already have this feature on my LiBCM project; LiBSU's implementation will be nearly identical. Team Jack may laugh that I use Arduino, but I find that laughable because their offering is a blank sheet of paper. It's like the kid who didn't do his homework laughing at my bad handwriting. I don't mind using crayons when the alternative is throwing caution to the wind.

    Toyota doesn't encrypt or authenticate anything I've looked at, which (probably) includes every NiMH vehicle they've designed including and after the Gen3 Prius. The earlier BSU CAN-based serial streams also don't appear encrypted/authenticated, but I haven't researched them as much (yet).

    However, you are correct that Toyota's serial stream is more complicated than Honda's. This is because Honda's BCM (same as Toyota's BSU) abstracts the data from the 'main' hybrid computer, whereas Toyota's BSU simply measures and relays tons of data to the main hybrid computer.

    For example, Honda's BCM only report's the overall pack state (e.g. "wants charge", "doesn't want charge", "wants assist", etc); whereas Toyota's BSU relays every single blade voltage, temperature sensor, etc, to the main computer, which must then process all that data itself (e.g. to calculate blade ESR, pack SoC, etc). Honda's implementation gives its BMS agency to decide what the pack wants, whereas Toyota's implementation is similar to a micromanaging overlord that wants every single detail.

    Fortunately, I've deciphered the entire RS485 protocol used on Gen3+ Toyota hybrids. My implementation only uses ~400 lines of code to generate the QTY384 byte serial data stream. I've actually spent the past couple weeks working on my LiBSU product for Toyota. I even bought a Prius last week ...meh... I prefer the Honda Insight, but obviously I need a Toyota mule to test the firmware.

    For my prototype, I've already installed my existing 10.4 kWh Honda Insight battery into the Toyota's spare tire well. With a custom tray, I suspect you could fit these QTY5 2.07 kWh modules in the same volume and location as the existing NiMH pack (i.e. not in the spare tire well). We've come a long way since Hymotion's design 15+ years ago.

    Assuming I finish up my firmware MVP over the next few days (crosses fingers), I intend to show off the prototype sometime next week in a video titled "Mudder Doesn't Even Own a Prius". Ideally the firmware will work the first time I test it in the car, but that's probably not going to happen... we'll see. Stay tuned.
     
    #18 mudder, Oct 1, 2025 at 10:01 PM
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2025 at 10:43 PM
  19. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Thanks for clarifying your research... I need more time to process this info above tomorrow...

    But for starters, why have Honda mods been so successful at the race track for decades, with even first hacked Jpeg posted on a Honda car screen around about 2001being celebrated in the NYtimes and piggy back chips controlling engine ECU have been available for Honda near just as long so you can have a laptop running your ECU mods when racing/testing at the track?

    Meanwhile Toyota mods like these seem to be near non-existent? Do you have any links that can help us better understand why its not as easy with Toyota? Seems like true to your self-described "Honda-Boy" view of the world you've haven't logged many hours trying to modify and spoof Toyota signals to prevent warning lights and hybrid system shut down?

    And granted, I've spent less than single digit hours on developing these skills but I'd love to help everyone better understand why Honda is way more popular than Toyota when is comes to ECU hacking, mods and spoofs?
     
  20. Vencedor

    Vencedor New Member

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    It's a standard programmable MOSFET-switched BMS, with protections that you have to configure. The car will always try to use the battery at 40-80% capacity, so the protection should prevent charging above 4.2V (100%) or below 3.0V (0%) individually. It also provides active power to each cell and would prevent charging, for example, in sub-zero temperatures.

    For example, I don't know if its LiBSU would be capable of the latter.