Hello! Looking for advice. I have a 2004 Prius. I have it stored and sometimes 12 v battery drains and I have to jump start it. Don't know if that is the case with this issue, but perhaps so: went to open the door with FOB- got nothing replaced battery in FOB just to make sure that was not issue (still nothing) I removed the hidden physical key in the FOB, and tried to manually unlock the door. When I turned ket to the left, slight "thunk" noises came from inside door (s) [sounded like noise came from back door too, [but not sure] though the 'thunk' noises sounded like door was unlocking, it remained locked. I'm baffled. What expected to happen was physical key would unlock door, I'd climb in back and open rear hatch from inside, charge 12 volt, and be good. I have AAA, assume they would have a way to open door....but wanted to see if there was anything I was missing. Any help appreciated! [in the future I'll leave one of those trickle chargers on 12 volt]. Thanks!
Spray some lubricant in the lock mechanism and try the key with pliers, both directions, not too hard!
It's weird because you'd like to think leftey-loosey, but turn the key to the right to unlock the door.
Much thanks Bisco & Chapman! Little WD-40 in lock....and Chapman is right, clockwise opens door. Come to find out, the problem is not with drained 12 volt, but worn out casing on the FOB. The plastic is clearly worn, so despite a new FOB battery, the lock/unlock buttons don't work. Checked out Amazon, and found this. Seems to have good reviews....looks like simple operation of transferring FOB innards to new FOB shell. Thoughts welcome.
Of course when you turn the top of key in one direction, the bottom of the key goes in the other direction, so it can still be confusing if you don't say counter-clockwise rather than clockwise.
don't follow.....when you turn key to right, top of key goes clockwise, and bottom goes clockwise. am I missing what you said?
I thought you said your buttons didn't work so this is no help no buttons or board the green thing it states so in add. So your existing green board goes in this plastic Black cover so you'll have new cover but no working buttons but it'll look nice . Pay the 425 at dealer programmed ready to go . Or you can mess around with dingbats and save about $75 in a waste about two three days of your time depends on what you'll put up with . Good luck . They're some emulator like remotes folks have gotten to work . Are you SKS?
ok, Im confused. Not sure if SKS. If I use the Amazon FOB shell referenced above, and transfer battery/ circuit board from my current FOB, are you saying the lock/unlock buttons wont work?
SKS: button on driver's door handle and the car will start without having to put the fob in a slot in the dashboard. SKS always has the 45Ah 12V battery and nonSKS might or might not have the smaller one, as many people have upgraded to the larger battery.
If you have SKS, you will have the little black buttons on the front door handles and (if stock) a silver Toyota logo on the back of your current fob. Tom is making assumptions based on what he thinks you mean by "so despite a new FOB battery, the lock/unlock buttons don't work." The physical lock/unlock buttons on the board are likely fine. One last point that no one has mentioned, in addition to transferring the circuit board over, you will need to transfer the RFID chip over as well. The RFID chip is what allows the car to start when you insert the fob in the slot.
I thought you stated that you're unlocking locking buttons on your messed up remote don't work so buying this case won't fix . If you didn't say your buttons aren't working my bad.
I think that's what Camper was getting at—clockwise always means clockwise, and counterclockwise always means counterclockwise*, but right or left depend on whether you're talking about the top of the key or the bottom of the key. OTOH, I don't think I've ever in my life seen anyone say right or left meaning the bottom of the key, so I was pretty sure I knew what you meant. * It was tradition at Thanksgiving dinner while I grew up for anyone asking for something to be passed clockwise or counterclockwise to also specify: as viewed from above or from below the table. So we could also talk about whether to turn the key clockwise as viewed from outside or counterclockwise viewed from inside the door. We'd just have to hold hands and say grace first.
my nomenclature is likely off. I'll try to be more clear. my old, very worn non-SKS FOB :- has new battery, and starts car once inserted in slot. But, does not lock/ unlock car door when buttons are pressed. I plan to buy the new Amazon FOB shell and transfer over c.board, battery and chip. With this new case, I'm hoping lock/unlock button function will then work. Does this sound right?
Why would a black outer case make the lil white buttons on green board work again ? Explain that logic please?
If you change the case, don't forget to transfer the chip as well. I did this and had to dig out the old case from the refuse.
ok great! your comment pinpointed our communication glitch. I have yet to open case, so am unaware of the white buttons on green board....but I know what to expect now. My attempt at logic: I'm hoping the little white buttons on green board actually do work! ...and that the problem lies with the disintegrating FOB plastic shell. The new case is like $15 ...so not much risk to try. My dad owned the car before me. Toyota snake charmed him multiple times into replacing the whole FOB ($300+) when the plastic case shell became worn out. I'm hoping the white buttons work, that they are just not being properly pressed due to worn FOB shell. That is my attempt to employ pure logic.
It's possible that the receiver on the car is busted, and that's why the buttons don't work. Check the relevant fuse? Don't know if this is relevant but easy enough to try:
