A file-directly-with-IRS program was piloted by the Biden administration, available in a subset of states to begin with; it got a couple hundred thousand users the first year and something like 350k users the second year if I remember right. The next administration killed it.
Ditto; Since the first Trump administration - it isn't worth my time to itemize. I backdated 3-years of returns and they all came out to less than $75 - $100 in tax savings - Not worth the additional time, effort, and possible mistakes or audit review. I'm always in the middle or slightly to the right of center on the programs' audit risk gauge - So I guess I have a lot of outliers - but I've got receipts for each and every one of them.
I understand that, new for this year, there's to be some provision for deducting charitable giving when there's otherwise no benefit to itemizing. Interesting question, does deductibility work as an incentive to giving? Might say no, 'cause when the standard deduction went up so much I stopped itemizing, I didn't stop giving. So allowing (a limited part of) it to be deductible again could be seen as a needless incentive for something I was going to keep doing anyway. On the other hand, my habits were formed earlier in life when the tax code materially encouraged them. So maybe there was something to that.
It certainly encouraged procrastinating giving, because it applies to 2026, not 2025 contributions. They tricked me when there was a similar exception for charitable contributions during covid times, which I assumed would continue the following year, but it didn't.
Tax Hawk (not $0, but relatively inexpensive) does cover incomes over 89K, capital gains, capital loss carryovers, etc., and probes for additional deductions.
Just used it. The federal is free if you don't opt for the extras like outside support. It includes the full form, not just the EZ, though I can speak on how it handles investments. It charges something like $15 to file a state return. Whether it is worth that depends on the state. Pennsylvania is single flat rate with few, if any, deductions. I just use the state's site to file.
Maybe I should have been a manual writer. I got a low-end, cheap thermostat for the furnace, here's the manaul's explanation for how to adjust temperature: I finally figured it out, put this little note by it: (I know, don’t give up my day job. )
Sounds like Steve Wozniak, when he kept pressing speed on his Prius cruise control. The car took so long to increase speed, after he stopped it just kept going up until it hit max, and he thought he had unintended acceleration
Adding an outlet in our garage today, fiingers-crossed, a first for me. I'm putting it in between the last in the run, and the one feeding it (in parallel). Have been reading up, watching videos, practicing wire twisting/capping. Hopefully goes smoothly. Anyway, there's a complete dearth of non-tamper-resistant outlets at my local hardware store, so I purchased some (Leviton) on Amazon. Thinking I'm breaking the law?
Don’t know Canadian law. Here, it’s state by state. You need a permit, but even the pros don’t pull them for smaller jobs, nor do they always follow code. I’ve been doing my own electrical work for 50 years, even a new house once. It’s pretty simple if you read up on. Originally, I purchased a guide from sears roebuck from the fifties, still have it. I haven’t burned anything down yet
Wife does not let me do much electrical work anymore. I replaced, oh, some part in the clothes dryer and did not get the wire nut on tight enough.. Melted the cap. No serious damage done. She lets me replace outlets where it is wire to bare screw and do wire connections that can be done with the new wire connections with the lever -- WAGO
I soldiered through with twist-caps, but those wago’s look like a walk in the park. One of the outlets the new one was “butting in between” was on a 9’-6” high ceiling (for garage opener). Tackled it first, tiring and hard, being overhead work on a step ladder. In the attic above had to do some painstaking lever-up of Romex cable staples and rerouting, running new cable. Got it done and miraculously all works. Tried my best to get all connections securely twisted and capped. Some of the squirreled-away plywood project left-overs up there helped, more comfortable than balancing on the roof truss bottom chord edges. And putting my 20’ extension ladder at the hatch proved a LOT easier than hopping up off 6’ step-ladder; my diminishing upper body strength was making that perilous. The old-work box for new outlet worked a charm, good design. You trace box on drywall (away from studs), cut opening (oscillating tool a Godsend), push/pull cables through clever, trap-door flaps in back (that grip it tenaciously). When it’s in the opening you turn two screws, that rotate tabs on backside, clamp it securely to drywall. Still need to restore some drywall, secure Romex, but it’s mostly done.
I use those too. I understand they are mandatory in Europe. Stick with that brand though. I had some cheaper ones fail.
I don't know about Canada, but here in the USA, outlets in the garage have to be GFI. I learned this years ago when my master-electrician neighbor helped me install an extra outlet in my garage. (So dumb for home constructors to only install one outlet which is in the front...no outlets on the side walls. You, did, put it on it's own breaker, right? (We tend to use pretty big tools in the garage so you don't want to share amperage with anything else.)
Of course. Guess I should employ emoticon as well, just assume I'm guileless, mostly, lol. No, wouldn't have a clue. There were only four outlets on that line, FWIW. None of the other outlets in the garage have Ground Fault Interrupter, maybe safety in numbers, lol? House built around 1980. I've learned from experience not to run electrical space heater at same time as table saw.