Don't mistake this noise for the inverter coolant pump

I can't edit the title. But the main issue is MPG. I get from - This - video

If what he says is true- The guy says that if your inverter pump makes that noise, its bad.

Does this mean, if it EVER makes that noise, its bad? I'm wondering, mine does do that. i hear it on occassions randmonly. Somtimes after turning it off i hear it doing this as i get out of the car. And yesterday as I was stopped at a red light, which I think I have heard on a few occassions before too. No codes from my Creader Elite T- last time I looked.

after getting the car, a few months later I got the red triangle of death. I took the battery out, reconditioned multiple times all of the little packs and found one with low voltage and replaced it. Mileage did come back up again to around 50ish mpg in town driving and still got 45+ on the interstate.

Lately, it seems to come and go. But not over 50mpg regularly in town driving like it was not long ago. Im sometimes at the pump seeing @50MPG, but not often, and on my inside dash gauge, tells me im getting 45mpg most of the time. And its usually pretty on.

I know running the heater lowers mpg. And that moves onto another problem- So even if I turn my heat off, I have air from the outside coming in; not recirculating. And I feel air coming from the vents. If i turn it on recirculate i dont feel any air but, the problem is is I cant tell if its hot or not. So, if heat is OFF, then whyy would i feel any heat? So I checked the heater screen, and so my temperature is set at 77 or something. but its OFF. So I turn on the heat so i can adjust this temp, and if i turn it down to 70 or lower, no heat will, as its blowing out while heater is off, will come out. But I still thinks its a tiny bit heating up. The problem is, is if the car thinks the heaters on, it runs the motor more often; lowering MPG, to make the temperature of the air coming out warm. So for some reason the car thinks heat is on, gets it to the temperature set- and by doing this, rujns the motor more often, also killing my MPG. That doesnt seem right and I cant find no way to completely eliminate this.

I do think I have mostly eliminated it but I dont know if 70 means heat on or not. If its comparing it to outside temps of like 50, wou9ld that mean heat on?: is it ocmparing it to outside temps to decide to turn it on or is it at a certain number it turns on and off?

But somtimes just to go back to my mpg problem and me thinking its (at leat part) an inverter pump issue, i do get close to regular mpg. but it seems lower than usual.

So 2 questions - inverter pump. Is it bad if I EVER hear that noise? and how much is too much? And 2, is something wrong- and can you pinpoint me to it, with the heating system actually running, and My theory is default it will run the engine more if it thinks the temperature needs to be raised of the hvac, and doing this means running motor= lower mpg.

 

The video says 'inverter coolant pump' and the noise it has it the noise I'm hearing from my car. So I don't know what to think. What would show me if the coolant inverter pump is going out? And what does that noise have to do with if I have an issue that it needs fixing?

The guy in the video seems to be a professional at working on the Prius'.. so I dont know what to think. Does this indicate a problem? Or nothing, but maybe something I can check to see. Its really a MPG issue.

 

What I'm seeing, which I dont think is normal.. but My thoughts on how this would work makes sense, but this way its doing it makes me sense its broken.

You turn heater on. Car engine turns on more often to keep the radiator fluid heated up to get the temperature youve set your heat to to reach that temp. MPG drops.

But I would think, turn off hvac- its like in analog systems, you move a valve that shuts the fluid from running through the heater core off. If air is blwoing through the vents - like because of some leak, doesnt really matter-(unless it does in this case but if so, i can shut that off by turning on recirculate but it doesnt make no difference because mpg still sucks) the valve seeming to in conjuction with sending fluid through the heater core still after hvac is turned off, the temperature number setting, is still got the car turning hte engine on and off to regulate and get any air through your hvac system- through the heater core- to reach the number of temp you set it on.. even with Hvac OFF.

This doesnt seem in some ways, to be the normal operating procedures. And some system - my guess that tells if water is running through hvac- then it detects the temp number and tells the engine to produce that temp of radiator fluid that would equate to that degrees coming out of the vents- is stuck on. Something operates the engine turning on and off. Sure the number Temp does, but the ON/OFF switch- is off on the screen, but how the engine or whatever sets this to on- turning motor on and off, how it detects ON/OFF might be from soemthing different, could be if fluid passes through heater core or not. Im guessing its that. If its that or the thing that turns the water to bypassing on or off through the heater core that might be broke.. Or it could just be teh brains that tells it to turn it on and off- but it will turn it off if AC is on. So it wouldnt be just stuck, it would be turned on heat. I think also it may get stuck on AC if i turn the temp down too low. Havent rechecked it lately been pretty cold, but "thought i remembered" turning it way down to bypass any of that speculative -compares temp on screen to outside temp- to decide whether to turn on heat or AC. but that would make my AC on off button basically useless. IDK if anybody knows anything more about this weird- turns on engine- system operating procedure that could fill me in on the possible problems.

So ok back to question 1 too, how can i tell if the inverter pumps blown? Any videos. I can trust the vdieos i can trust information here. That dude he seems to be a Prius' specialist. in my perspective ive got information on both sides. Ive heard a video where it showed the CCV making noise, but it seemed to be simliar but slower. Mine is exactly like in that video in OP. Cant find this other one that talked about the slower similiar noise. but thats what made me go for the inverter is bad guess.

 

Ok found some info in the comment section. Also a possibility of what it might be.
so anyone have any idea.. what sensor their talking about exactly? Would that lead to my heater problem? What does this valve operate exactly? Just the hvac system heater side?

 

the heater has to work off of this somehow, to tell when to turn the engine on and off. Heater use and mpg correlate.

 

or maybe its possible, even if i cant feel it, -example when i turn off vent from outside and turn on recirculate(cant feel it) the fans still blowing anyway... yea idk how im not hearing the fan from the inside- but the mpg is still down compared to what temp i set the temperature at on the heater whether on not i turn it on vent from outside or recirculate. but air blowing over the heater core would also lower the engine temp and cause it to turn back on to hold coolant at a certain temperature, too.

 

ok. You sure its not some type of sensor before I start throwing the parts cannon at it? Something is triggering the motor to stay on to hold the temps maybe theres some other way of adjust the temps that come out but, the engine has to stay hotter or the heating coil is like upping your radiator cooling abilities which causes the motor to run more. Everyone knows this- using heater on these ev's = less mpg. What causes this my theory I think everyone would agree is the engine runs more often. Either the heater control- on the dash-or one of the things it is connected to, is telling the motor to run longer to keep coolant temps higher or, the heater coil not being bypassed, whatever triggers it to shut down when i press the OFF button on heater controls isnt switching. The temp adjustment seems to may be part of it or could be another mechanism to control the actual temperature. But engine temps have big deal to do with it. EV's run less cause of hybrid.

Anything else I could test before loading up the parts cannon anyone might have an idea of? I have the one OBD2 scanner that lets me actuate parts that I can and maybe test them, the CREATE Elite thing. I was checking codes and accidentally was tipped off, that there is a possible inverter coolant sensor temperature thing- but maybe not since this code wasn't actually this thing- it was ABS and cause my battery got low- from updating the obd2 thing

 

my cars temperature sensor seems to report correctly to my OBD2 scan tool. This could then instead be a couple of issues.

this isnt an inverter issue- the main issue isn't the inverter- it was mpg- inverter could make this happen. Im not harping you just pointing out to
Why I can't follow along. The issue is Im

I must have missed this post.

Well isn't that contradictory. how does 1 fan ... no way. Think this is wht i saw and got lost

ANd for that linked topic, all they know is it runs to 50C turns on, 60C and turns the engine off when the heaters ON. Mines OFF though. ANd their results of draining electric was even worse??. So IDK.

Hehehe AHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

 

Ok I guess the CCW part inside it that tells it to turn that on and off. Pentiometer .. piece of junk, why not use hall sensors? never fail. If anyone has another note- let me know. Im gonna shoot this at it.

quick question, does the sound as in that video, should it be making that kind of continous sound too often? Mine does it like that, idk maybe for 10 seconds at a time at points. from the original post video.

 

Should my car necessarily be giving a P1121 code for the CCW to be confirmatively that its bad? cause i'm not getting a DTC of P1121. I dont have an o2 sensor (on the cat) but i dont know if this would affect it any? So summary, can the CCW be bad if it's not combined with a P1121 DTC? or does it need to have the code to conclude the CCW is bad or can it be bad, and not have a DTC set? I mean certainly.

the page you listed, mentioned checking for that DTC to troubleshoot and check and see if it's alright.

Remember I'm getting heat blowing through the vent depending on what the temp was set on before I turned the Hvac control OFF. I suspect that water shouldn't be direceted to the heater coil if I turn the Heat controls OFF because, in a regular car it doesn't cause the motor to turn on when doing so. The digital controls if OFF should turn off any Hvac stuff like directing water to heat coils or AC compressor on/off, this OFF button on heat controls should be all in one. Or ... man, have u got a Prius? i would wonder.
>too low of temp turns on AC compressor.
>too hot (?whatever that means) directs water to the heater coil- i guess automatically turns on whatever makes the engine run more often- if not by the cooling from the extra radiator(heater coil) itself. -making less MPG