Break down today. Pulled codes. Need feedback on it.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by TechBill, Mar 4, 2026 at 1:04 PM.

  1. TechBill

    TechBill New Member

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    I had a breakdown today with my 2007 Prius and got the red triangle and the car icon with the exclamation mark on the MFD. The car shut down and I had to pull over.

    I pulled the codes with Dr Prius and this is what I got.

    P3190
    P0171
    P0420
    P0A0F

    The P3190 is confirmed and the others showed as pending earlier. The Dr Prius full battery test also showed P0A0F which says engine failed to start.

    From what I can see the hybrid battery seems balanced. Voltage difference around 0.04 to 0.13 and internal resistance around 21 to 23 mΩ. Temperatures around 90 to 100°F.

    Here are the numbers I saw during the battery monitor.

    Pack voltage about 205 to 232 V
    State of charge about 48 to 58 percent
    Block voltages mostly around 14.5 to 14.8 V
    Volt diff about 0.04 to 0.13 V
    Internal resistance mostly 21 to 23 mΩ

    I was trying to run the Dr Prius full battery test but could not finish it because it kept asking for accelerate then decelerate. It did show P0A0F during the test.

    Does this look more like an engine issue than a hybrid battery problem. Anyone seen this combination of codes before on a Gen 2 Prius. Any suggestions on what I should check first would be appreciated.
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Definitely engine. That's what all the codes are about. Nothing there about the traction battery.
     
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  3. TechBill

    TechBill New Member

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    I am googling it now to see which engine issue is more likely cause this. It leaning me toward to dirty or bad MAF or throttle body.

    Bill
     
  4. saneesh8

    saneesh8 Member

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    P0A0F - I got it on my 2009 few months back. It also had throttle body error. Replaced with junk yard unit($30), worked for few months and then failed. Replaced with new one from local dealer. So far no issues after that.

    There are some rebuild units available on ebay which is cheaper like $100. Dont know how long they will last.
     
  5. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Yes, but trying to start an engine that won't start will drain down the hybrid battery to the point of it needing to be re-charged with a grid charger.
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The P0A0F code itself doesn't tell you much; it's just the HV control ECU saying "hey, I asked the engine to run, and it didn't." To work out what the issue might be, you have to look at the codes specifically from the ECM.
     
  7. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    So is the engine actually running or idling - or is it just the traction battery cranking the engine????
    How many miles and when was the last engine tune-up/fluid checks?
     
  8. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    For any engine related issues on a gen2 car, I would first make sure it has enough oil in the engine. That seems to be the new killer for these older cars, burning oil to the point it dies.
     
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  9. TechBill

    TechBill New Member

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    Update
    Today I had my brother come over to listen to the engine since I am profoundly deaf.

    He drove the car around and immediately asked how we know how fast the car is going. I told him it should show on the dash, but surprisingly the dash was completely blank. There was no speedometer, no shift indicator, nothing at all. Just a blank display, but the car was still driving normally.

    We drove back to my house and then another problem appeared. I could not power the car off at all. The coolant pump was still running and the infotainment screen was still showing status. I pressed the start button repeatedly and even held it down but the car would not shut down.

    I asked AI and it suggested holding the brake pedal down while holding the start button for more than 5 seconds. It said the computer might not be able to determine the car is in the Park state. Doing that finally forced the car to shut down.

    After that I checked the 12V battery. It measured about 12.3 volts on my voltmeter. I also noticed the ground terminal was loose. I could rotate it by hand, so I tightened the ground terminal bolt. The positive terminal was already tight.

    After tightening the ground, we started the car again and the dashboard finally came back on and everything appeared normal. We drove around a bit, parked, turned the car off and back on again, and the dash still worked.

    One thing I noticed is that the engine never seemed to stop running while driving, even during regenerative braking. However, when the engine actually stops running the RPM on my scan tool still shows around 1200 RPM, which I assume is because the electric motor is spinning the planetary gear set.

    So now I am wondering:
    Could the loose 12V ground terminal have caused all of these problems?

    On a Gen 2 Prius, when the engine stops while driving, should the RPM show 0, or does it still show RPM because the motor is spinning the system?

    Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
     
  10. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Your problem is the combination meter has failed. There is a capacitor that needs to be replaced (the cheap fix). You can google the problem or do a search on this forum. Known problem for these cars.

    To shut down the car, Toyota has advised to hold down the power button for up to 10 seconds and wait for the car to shut off. This may or may not work all the time. The only correct repair is to replace the capacitor or buy a used/new working combination meter.
     
  11. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    The motor may continue to run after stopping, but should shut off after about 50 seconds after becoming stationary. That is provided the car has run for twenty minutes so is warmed up, that is is not extremely cold outside and you have the heater running.

    It may do something different to this for one or two start/run cycles following you fixing the battery terminal situation. It may also take several drive cycles to recalibrate the engine control module (ECM) before things normalize.

    In regards, to what you see on the scan tool, if you are looking at live data, then yes, if you see 1200 RPM, the engine is running. If you're looking at freeze frame data in the trouble code section, then no, the 1200 RPM is as at the time the code set.