Need help with Custom PIDs for Gen 3 Electric Water Pump (21D7) in Torque Pro

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Asfand, Apr 28, 2026.

  1. Asfand

    Asfand New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2026
    7
    2
    0
    Location:
    Pakistan
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Hi everyone,

    I’m currently troubleshooting a potential overheating issue on my 2010 Prius (Gen 3) and I need some help verifying the custom PID settings for the Engine Electric Water Pump.

    I’ve been using Torque Pro with the standard Prius PID lists, but the Electric Water Pump (Actual vs. Target RPM) isn't showing up correctly. I’m specifically trying to monitor PID 21D7 on Header 7E0.

    What I’ve tried so far:

    Header: 7E0

    Command: 21D7

    Current Equation: (D*256)+E

    The Result: I’m getting very high raw values like 18176 (Actual) and 8449 (Target) during normal driving.

    I suspect I have the wrong multiplier or byte offset for the Gen 3. Does anyone have the verified Equation to convert these raw values into actual RPM?

    Also, if anyone has the verified PIDs for the Water Pump Amperage or Duty Cycle to help me see if the pump is cavitating or hitting a blockage, that would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance for the help!
     
  2. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2012
    13,189
    5,337
    0
    Location:
    Pacific Northwest, USA
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    Torque might not have that PID, but its a smart one to have. Basically anything that can monitor the details of the electricity going to that pump would be helpful.

    I know CarScanner Elm app does better at communicating with all the system and Torque is a very old system that doesn't get updated much (if at all). Also the Autel AP200 OBD2 reader does complete diagnostics equivalent to Toyota Techstream.
     
  3. StarCaller

    StarCaller Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2014
    1,283
    732
    0
    Location:
    Cedar Crest, NM, USA
    Vehicle:
    2014 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    The raw values are high because the equation is missing the 0.25 multiplier /
    Use ((D*256)+E)/4 for the correct RPM /

    At 16 years old, that pump is at the end of its service life /
    A new pump is cheap insurance; a warped head or a replacement engine is not /
    Do not risk the car to save a little money /
    Just replace it with an OEM unit /
     
  4. Asfand

    Asfand New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2026
    7
    2
    0
    Location:
    Pakistan
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Hello there, thank you for the reply.

    Appreciate the advice and the corrected equation! I'll update my Torque Pro settings to /4 and see how the numbers look.

    I’m struggling with a persistent overheat on my 2010 Prius and need some advice.

    What’s been done:

    1. Cleaned radiator, thermal valve, and all coolant pipes.

    2. Found a faulty pump rotor; replaced it with a known good one.

    3. Car still overheats on long trips in high heat.
    Since the lines are clean and the rotor is new, could the pump's internal electronics be failing only when heat-soaked?

    Moreover, I tried with car scanner app also, but the water pump parameters it doesn't respond to them. Rest of the parameters the app responds. even that i created custom PID for the water pump parameters but the app (scanner pro) doesn't read at all. see snapshot please.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Asfand

    Asfand New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2026
    7
    2
    0
    Location:
    Pakistan
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Hi there,
    Thank you for your reply too. In fact, i tried with the car scanner app at first place but it doesn't communicate or read Water Pump related values at all and interestingly other values of the engine it reads and variate just fine. see snapshot please.
     

    Attached Files:

    PriusCamper likes this.
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    28,248
    18,697
    0
    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    ISTR some discussion of this before, and looking up the big PriusChat spreadsheet of gen 3 PIDs, and seeing none for the engine water pump. An odd thing to be missing, but the scan tool vendors like Autel license all of that data from Toyota, and the rest of us (and the scan tools that don't license the data) have to figure out the PIDs by reverse engineering, and it might be that nobody has gotten around to those couple PIDs yet.
     
    Asfand likes this.
  7. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2012
    13,189
    5,337
    0
    Location:
    Pacific Northwest, USA
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    It's also history of the app itself... During the early days of Gen2 Prius the Torque app was a really big deal and lots priuschat-like enthusiasm was going on among the app users. But then, by the time Gen3 users were getting started Torque lost popularity and folks started using Hybrid Assistant / Reporter and Dr. Prius App, so there wasn't as much of a Prius community on Torque to build more PIDs.

    As in, the 2004-2009 era of the Prius Community was a golden era in terms of technological excitement about Prius when their was lots of crowd-sourced innovation, as well as start ups selling plugin hybrid kits.
     
    #7 PriusCamper, Apr 29, 2026
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2026
  8. Asfand

    Asfand New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2026
    7
    2
    0
    Location:
    Pakistan
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Hi everyone,

    I wanted to share my troubleshooting journey regarding a persistent heating issue on my 2010 Prius Gen 3. After a long process of data logging and deep cleaning, I finally identified the culprits. This case study might be helpful for those who have replaced the water pump but are still seeing "heat signs" on the odometer.

    Problem:
    - Occasional "Heat" warning sign appearing on the dashboard.
    - Warning appearing even when OBD2 sensors showed relatively normal temperatures.
    - Localized overheating during long trips (200km+).
    - High engine load and poor thermal recovery.

    Initially, I suspected the electric water pump. Upon inspection, I found the impeller in terrible condition i.e. swollen, damaged, and clearly failing. However, even after replacing it with a known good impeller, the overheating issues persisted. To get to the bottom of it, I used Torque Pro and an OBD2 scanner to monitor the car during a 200km trip. Despite inconsistent pump data, the steady, unrelenting rise in coolant temperatures confirmed that I wasn't dealing with a software glitch, but a system-wide circulation and heat-exchange failure that went far deeper than just the pump motor itself.

    Comprehensive Cooling & Exhaust Service:
    To solve this, I performed a "Deep Detox" of the cooling and exhaust systems:

    1)Professional Radiator Cleaning: Disassembled the radiator professionally to clear internal impurities and scale.
    2)EGR System Overhaul: Cleaned the EGR pipe and found the EGR valve unit completely blocked with carbon. I used professional chemicals to restore flow.
    3) Catalytic Converter Cleaning: Disassembled the silencer and chemically cleaned the catalytic converter, followed by high-pressure water and drying.
    4)Exhaust Flow Control Valve (The "Smoking Gun"): Found this valve was stuck. This was likely the primary cause of the "heat sign" on the odometer, as it was trapping heat in the exhaust loop.
    5)Thermostat Check: Verified the thermostat expansion in boiling water to ensure it was opening at the correct temperature.

    Result:
    I just completed a 200km test drive with the AC on 60% of the time.
    - Max Temp: 194.99°F (90.5°C).
    - Average Temp: 193.96°F (89.9°C).
    - Performance: The car reached its destination without a single warning light or heat spike.

    If you are chasing an overheat issue on a Gen 3, don't just stop at the water pump. Check the Exhaust Flow Control Valve and ensure the EGR system is completely clear. A clogged radiator can also hide its symptoms until you are under high load on a long drive but this valve (Exhaust Flow Control Valve) can "mimic" a water pump failure by dumping massive amounts of heat back into the coolant loop that the pump simply can't keep up with.

    for reference, see log image which i took it from torque pro data and plotted it for your understanding.

    I thought my journey would benefit anyone having similar issue. Any other suggestion for me would be highly appreciated.
    Thank you,
    Regards,
    Asfandyar Ali (driving 150K+ mileage Prius 2010 Gen 3 in Pakistan)
     

    Attached Files:

    CR94 likes this.
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    28,248
    18,697
    0
    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    I assume what you mean here is the exhaust heat exchanger, which is the third 'lump' in the gen 3 exhaust pipe counting from the engine end, coming after both catalytic converters and before the resonator. I assume you chemically cleaned the coolant path through that exchanger. Would that be right?

    I have also heard of chemical treatments for actually cleaning catalytic converters, such as to resolve P0401 codes, but I assume that is not what you did, is it?

    You did a great deal of other work, but happily, your thorough approach did lead you eventually to the cause of the problem.

    I wish I could have made this suggestion before you did all of that work, but anyway: the gen 3 Prius has two coolant temperature sensors, and either one can light the overheat warning. One is in the cylinder head and reads the temperature of coolant exiting the engine, and the other is in a coolant hose near the wiper cowl, and reads the temperature of coolant coming up from the exhaust heat exchanger. Techstream or another suitably-capable scan tool can show you both readings. If the high reading is coming from the EHRS sensor, a stuck exhaust flow valve is a very likely explanation.
     
    Asfand and Brian1954 like this.
  10. Asfand

    Asfand New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2026
    7
    2
    0
    Location:
    Pakistan
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Hi there ChapmanF,
    Below is the image I get it disassembled and cleaned with the help of catalytic cleaner. The valve you see in the image was stuck and dirty and it was one of the main culprit. As a matter of fact, there is a small cap which was also damaged (just like a toothpaste tube cover) and the mechanic did replace that also. According to him, that faulty cap wasn't allowing the valve to open or close properly to allow the coolant to flow.

    upload_2026-5-5_11-10-44.png

    Can you please guide what is EHRS sensor and if you know it's custom PID so that i could put it in my torque pro to monitor again when i go back 200km this weekend.

    Regards,
    Asfandyar Ali
     
  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    28,248
    18,697
    0
    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    Your car is a gen 3, is it not? That drawing isn't the clearest picture of the gen 3 exhaust pipe; this illustration shows more clearly what it looks like.

    [​IMG]

    (Of course, in a real car, it isn't polished and shiny, and doesn't have a sign reading "Exhaust Heat Recirculation System" stuck on the heat exchanger. ;) There also may be some heat shields around it that were left off for display.)

    In the display picture, you can clearly see the car's two catalytic converters (the first two bulges, counting from the left), and next the exhaust heat exchanger (the third bulge), which is not a catalytic converter, but has coolant pipes attached, and finally the resonator/sub-muffler (the fourth bulge), which is also not a catalytic converter.

    I am not sure what you cleaned "with the help of catalytic cleaner". That is more often something people attempt when there is a trouble code for degradation of the catalytic converter.

    For a coolant overheating issue, I would have my attention foremost on the path followed by the coolant—which does pass through the heat exchanger, but does not involve either catalytic converter.

    Following the coolant path, of course, takes you to the faulty valve that you found, which is not an uncommon failure item, and does lead to the overheating you experienced.

    Using the information in ➡this post⬅ (and the first link within it), you will know as much about it as I do, which isn't everything.
     
  12. Asfand

    Asfand New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2026
    7
    2
    0
    Location:
    Pakistan
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Hi there,
    Sorry for any confusion! I was referring to the entire polished EHRS part shown in your image. What they do is remove this assembly and pour a catalytic cleaning chemical (like the one pictured below) directly into the opening of the honeycomb structure. They let it sit for 15–20 minutes and then drain it.

    upload_2026-5-6_11-17-24.png

    Thank you for your feedback. Below is an actual photo of the valve. We believe this valve was triggering the overheating warning on the dash, even though my OBD2 scanner showed that the coolant temperature was normal.

    upload_2026-5-6_11-23-56.png

    Regards,
    Ali
     
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    28,248
    18,697
    0
    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    The entire polished part is not the EHRS, it is the front exhaust pipe assembly. It consists of two catalytic converters, followed by the EHRS exchanger, followed by a resonator (or sub-muffler), all welded along a stainless-steel pipe.

    So when Cataclean is poured in the front end, it does flow through the first and second catalytic converters (which it is intended to clean), and also through the EHRS exchanger (which it probably has little effect on) and through the resonator and out the back end of the pipe.

    The usual reason for trying Cataclean would be a P0401 code, indicating that the catalytic converter effectiveness has been reduced by chemical fouling of the catalyst honeycomb. It is not a likely suspect in coolant overheating.

    The thermostatic valve of the EHRS exchanger is indeed a known suspect for coolant overheating, as you found.

    Yes, that's what was happening. The overheat warning on the dash was being triggered by the EHRS temperature sensor reading, while your OBD2 scanner was only showing you the cylinder head temperature reading.
     
    Asfand likes this.
  14. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2008
    10,656
    6,686
    7
    Location:
    Texas Hill Country
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius v wagon
    Model:
    Three
    As Chapman noted, we have been down this road before with a stuck Exhaust Heat Recirc System (EHRS) Valve.

    The "Car Scanner" app can display both temperature sensors without modification and can generate graphs. Techstream has two but they are both called Coolant Temperature, one in the Combination Meter ecu, the other in the Engine ecu.

    Two temperature sensors from Car Scanner app (graph configured from default data scan)
    Exhaust Coolant  7C0 and Engine 7C4 Temp Sensors.jpeg

    Car Scanner Graphical Trend with Normal EHRS thermostat followed by stuck closed thermostat. Normal Exhaust Heat 7C0 sensor is almost always lower than Engine_Block 7C4 sensor v red exhaust recirc temp vs green engine temp.jpeg
    priuschat overheating capture.jpeg
    The stuck closed graph was on a vehicle experiencing occasional high load temperature warning lights (>248f) while the block temperature remained normal.

    A no cost solution employed by the owner was to force the EHRS open with a small piece of metal shown with pink highlight on end

    Exhaust Heat Recirc Actuator 2of4JPG.jpeg

    prius gen3 Exhaust Heat Recirculation Extended Open.jpeg
     
    #14 rjparker, May 6, 2026 at 10:23 AM
    Last edited: May 6, 2026 at 4:43 PM
    Asfand and Brian1954 like this.
  15. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2012
    13,189
    5,337
    0
    Location:
    Pacific Northwest, USA
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    Why the hell has @Mendel Leisk or you never mentioned this valve before? Seems ridiculous with the amount of hot engines blowing head gaskets in Gen3 that no one has ever documented how to do regular maintenance on this component to prevent it from failing? Why would it never be a point of emphasis? Does anyone have a legitimate link on how to clean and inspect this system?
     
    Asfand likes this.
  16. Asfand

    Asfand New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2026
    7
    2
    0
    Location:
    Pakistan
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Brilliant depiction rjParker. Thank you too for such a great input. Is this pink metal welded?
     
  17. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2008
    10,656
    6,686
    7
    Location:
    Texas Hill Country
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius v wagon
    Model:
    Three
  18. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2008
    10,656
    6,686
    7
    Location:
    Texas Hill Country
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius v wagon
    Model:
    Three
    I have several threads* mentioning the subject including one with the graphs shown above.

    Keys to understanding the situation is there are two separate coolant temp sensors, one of which is immediately downstream of the EHRS system output. The other is on the block coolant output feeding the radiator.

    IMG_1007.jpeg

    The stuck valve does not overheat the engine. It is a relatively minor volume feeding into the egr cooler. Even in a normally function EHRS system, coolant flow always continues through it.

    BUT the EHRS system's thermostatic valve moves to allow a straight through exhaust path as illustrated in the smaller attachment above. It does not control coolant flow.

    The major engine to radiator flow is not impacted. Which is why the op mentioned the engine block sensor never overheated.

    Net result of a stuck EHRS valve? Exhaust is forced through more of the heat exchanger warming it up enough to trip the temperature sensor on the dash. On very high load conditions. Without overheating the engine.

    * When I was moderator of a large car forum, I or the op would have retitled certain threads to make future searches easier. No editing restrictions. I would also ensure sales and disruptive dialog were cleaned up. Unfortunately the loudest voices here sometimes prevail to the detriment of future users.
     
    #18 rjparker, May 6, 2026 at 4:25 PM
    Last edited: May 6, 2026 at 4:49 PM
    PriusCamper likes this.
  19. PTS

    PTS Member

    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2020
    95
    44
    0
    Location:
    Austin, Texas
    Vehicle:
    2013 Prius v wagon
    Model:
    Three
    If I remember right, Priuscamper blocks anyone that pushes back on his rhetoric. Which might mean he never sees rjparker's content on subjects like this.
     
  20. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2012
    13,189
    5,337
    0
    Location:
    Pacific Northwest, USA
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    Wrong again...