Do I need to do anything special to bleed front brakes only?

Did you open the hydraulic connections at some point of your pad-replacement job? Bleeding is only needed if you did and air could have entered.

The system is electronically controlled front and rear. What's different about the fronts is that there are two front hydraulic circuits: the one used when the brakes are operating normally, and the one used as a fail-safe during fault conditions.

The fail-safe circuit behaves like conventional car brakes, when the car is off. If you "pump the brakes with the car off and just open the bleeders" you're bleeding that circuit. That's not the one used in normal operation, though.

If you're sure the only air in the system is down at the caliper ends of the lines, it can still be enough to get that air out.

 

I'm glad we agree on not needing to bleed the brakes when changing brake pads. Suspect cars a 1/2 century ago probably weren't as reliable with hyrdalics and flushing and bleeding was part of every break pad change.

 

I often will open the bleed screw while pushing back the piston for a pad replacement, so I am not forcing the fluid from the caliper back upstream into the high-rent parts of the brake system.

But if I'm going to do that, I start with an upward loop of fluid-filled hose attached to the bleeder, so when I open it there will be no air going in, and only fluid coming out. Then I can just close the bleeder again, with no need—as I guess we agree—to do any brake bleeding as a follow-up.

 

I do similar on these abs car

 

I have a hard time believing that forcing the fluid back to reservoir with the 12v battery disconnected is going to be a problem? I've done both gen2 and gen3 with the simple tool to press the calipers apart with a thumb screw and it's always been an instant increase in fluid in the reservoir. It's kind of like that rule of cracking the reservoir fill cap before you push the caliper pistons back. It's a good idea, but the fluid going into the reservoir isn't goign to compress much air.

However your method would make sense one time I did brakes and the fluid was topped off in the reservoir and the new brake pads pushed the reservoir to overflowing. But a turkey baster could solve that faster than a hose on a bleeder nipple, especially in climates that are prone to rust and corrosion.

 

Just crack the passenger side front bleed screw first let drip 3 min do other side front same amount. Should be

 

Not sure there’s any need to do this, replacement of front pads and rotors wouldn’t necessitate any expelling of brake fluid. Some like to, to flush debris. Ive never bothered (over the years, various cars), with no apparent downsides.

a full brake fluid replacement is something to consider though: while Toyota USA says nothing about it, Toyota Canada now recommends tri-yearly or 48k kms (~30k miles), whichever comes first.

there’s a link in my signature regarding brake fluid change (on a phone turn it landscape to see signatures).

(there’s a mention of “pint bottles” (16 oz) of Toyota DOT3 fluid, in fact they’re 12 oz. A couple of those is how much I’ve used, seemed sufficient. You might want to use more, especially if it’s never been done.)