Logging to see trigger conditions for p0a80 p3000 - which process?

Electrons are weird... Back in my NiMH rebuilding days when doing diagnostics I could get a P3000 several times in a day then go several weeks with no warning lights at all.

You can watch Dr. Prius app data as you drive if you're curious. And you can clear codes as much as you want as long as battery temperature doesn't get too hot.

Beyond that, rebuilding or replacing your pack is the correct answer to all your questions.

 

The P0A80 code triggering algorithms are considered proprietary intellectual property of Toyota.

However if still under warranty (10 years 150,000 for all newer models and for older models in CARB states) that code is enough for Toyota to replace the hv battery free.

 

Your Prius keeps a record of many parameters when the P0A80 code is triggered. To retrieve the data, you need a scanner that can read the freeze frame data for the P0A80 code. As long as the P0A80 code is active, use Techstream or other scanner to look at the freeze frame data for the code.

 

Too hot is when the white plastic end caps of the pack get so hot the overheated pack pushes on them and warps them and then shortly after that the tops of the modules start popping off and blowing electrolyte everywhere. I'd guess 130' or hotter...

And congratulations! If the battery pack has serial numbers that indicate a date of manufacture of a year ago you don't have a problem with the pack at all, you have a problem with corrosion inside your battery ECU that needs to be cleaned and you also have corrosion in your voltage sensor wires. Use my link in my signature to get a 10% discount on higher that OEM quality voltage sensor harness.

 

Open Techstream. Run a Health Check. If the results of the health check scan show a current P0A80 code, there will be "snow flake" just to the left of the P0A80 code. Double-clicking on the "snow flake" will open the freeze frame data. It will look similar to the link I posted below. Once you have the freeze frame data, create screenshots or take pictures of the screen and upload them in a post.

Here is an example of the freeze frame data for the P0A80 code,https://attachments.priuschat.com/attachment-files/2024/08/253941_Freeze_Frame_Data_08-03-24.pdf
If you open the linked PDF and scroll down to page #3, you will see that battery block #2 has a much lower voltage than the other battery blocks. In this case, one of the battery modules that make up block #2 is bad.

FYI, the columns labeled "-3, -2, -1" are before the trouble code was triggered. Column "0" is when the trouble code triggered. Column "1" was after the trouble code triggered.

 

ECU and Relays and sensors and mounts bolt to the side of the battery pack. It's a different part/assembly than the battery pack.

No need for more help on ECU Corrosion just open it up and clean it if you go it...

 

Battery ECU secrets and teardown (warning: geek content) | Page 2 | PriusChat

I've been replacing these connectors for 8 years now. If the circuit board is good the connector can be de-soldered and new one soldered in it's place.

 

Have you ever been able to find the connector? Got a link? Because I got a box of Gen2 ECUs with fried connectors and have been looking for years for that plug socket so I can repair these ECUs and have never been able to find them.

 

There are often (but not always) part numbers of some sort on sockets - but it might be stamped on the part facing down onto the motherboard. If you have an ECU which you are willing to sacrifice desolder the socket (or clip all the leads going into the board) and then go over the socket with a big magnifying glass and lighting from various angles. (Maybe try your hand at desoldering first, since it is a sacrificial part, because you may find that it is very difficult to get all the solder out from around the pins without delaminating pads on the board.) Any text string that is found on the socket can be searched on the web and you may get lucky that way. Or not. This could easily be a custom socket only for Toyota use, supplied only by Denso, subcontracted to some other Japanese electrical parts manufacturer.

I had suggested in post 14 of this thread:

Gen 2 Traction Battery ECU board connector replacement | PriusChat

that one approach would be to work out the exact geometry of the leads going into the board and the socket, then buy both a socket and plug that are compatible, and modify both the ECU board and the wiring that connects to it.

 

I have never done business with these guys, but they sell these:

Toyota Prius (2004-2009) Battery Control Module - ELECTRON

for $149 with a 1 year warranty. These are supposedly "remanufactured" - don't know if that means replacing that connector or not. They are in Orange, California, so maybe they don't see too many corroded connectors.

They also sell these:

Toyota Prius (2004-2009) Cooling Fan Motor Assembly - ELECTRON

for $105 with a 3 year warranty and are "remanufactured". On most fans that would mean changing the brushes but I could never figure out how take these blowers apart - the cage is press fitted somehow permanently onto the motor shaft. Anyway, that is a much better price than a new one from Toyota.