Big Red TRIANGLE, and other warning lights, wont go into Drive/Reverse.

I have a 2005 Prius with 107K miles which I had taken off the road for about 2 months. Car ran fine previously. I just replaced the old 12v Battery with a new Optima replacement battery, changed the oil and filter, and have 1/3 tank of gas. Inserted the key into the slot, foot on brake, pressed the Power button, and, just about every warning indicator light is On (Brake, Red Triangle, Check Engine, (!), ABS, VSC, Traction Control) and the yellow exclamation mark with "Problem" message appears for a second on the Display, then a Red Car (!) appears in the upper left-hand corner of the display. Car will Not go into Drive or Reverse, and engine will not run, even when gas pedal depressed.
Am I doing something wrong, or did I let the car sit too long?

Any help would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks,
Mark

 

Here is what was done over the past week, prior to posting the problem. Replaced the original OEM 12v battery due to weak readings and age. New Optima 12v battery is good. Reads 12.2v with a multi-meter. MFD (Multi-Function Display) shows 12.2v also. Even (pre)-charged the new 12v battery outside the vehicle with a Schumacher battery charger to verify proper charge. Installed the battery, changed the oil and filter, then ran into these symptoms when I tried starting the car to move it. I have an Actron CP9145 OBDII Scanner that I use on my other cars, but ran into 'communication errors' with it and the Prius, quickly learning through internet searches that my scanner wont work on the Prius' vehicles. I was able to get into the diagnostic mode on the MFD to view codes under LAN Monitor - EMV and took a photo of the screen before clearing the codes. I figured that if the car wouldn't start due to certain codes being set, and I cleared the codes, that I'd be good-to-go, but that's not the case. I went as far as testing the HV battery voltage to see if the max voltage was good or to possibly find a bad cell, but the max battery voltage at the output terminals with my Fluke meter is 209v and each cell reads exactly 7.5v. (I understand that max voltage should be 201.6v/7.2v per cell). Anyhow, I had 7 codes previously set under the LAN Monitor - EMV screen as follows:
01-D5 178-34-B
01-D5 190-34-B
01-DA 178-84-2
01-DB 178-F9-1
01-DC 440-C3-6
01-DC 190-37-F
01-DC 1C6-F9-F

If anyone can define these codes and direct me through steps to some possible (low-cost) solution, I would be extremely greatful.

Thanks,
Mark

 

Also, when I try starting the car first thing in the morning and observe the Energy Monitor screen, the battery voltage starts-off with blue bars in the middle of the battery monitor then after about a minute I'm down to two pink bars at the bottom. Just wondering if the HV battery voltage is around normal but the amperage is low due to the car sitting for about 2 months, and if the system monitor is sensing the low current on the current sensor on the positive HV cable during start-up?? And IF that's part of the problem (low charge on the HV cells), can I just charge the cells in pairs (14.4v) safely, without damaging the DENSO Battery Computer Assy. (??)

Thanks again,
Mark

 

(Thank You HTMLSpinnr for re-directing me to the Gen II T/S Forum!)
Yup! I'm a Newbie

 

No sparks known of when replacing the 12v battery. Polarity was not reversed (accidentally) during battery replacement. All the fuses appear good. Tested all fuses (and checked links with a flashlight) under the hood with a meter (also visually by pulling all fuses out) including the 5 amp fuse (and the fuseable link) at the positive 12v battery connector. I did have the HV plug removed but was sure to re-install firmly with latch all the way up. I took note that there are two small pins on the HV plug assy. that fit into a small switch.
Ill try those steps you gave me very soon and report back.
Thanks!

 

I removed (30 sec.) and reconnected both plugs at the 12v battery positive terminal block to re-boot. Tried starting car, same symptoms. With car OFF and using dvm, voltage at fuse terminal block under hood read 12.3v. Pressed power button twice, voltage now reads 11.9v under hood. (still within spec, I believe).
Is there a code reader available from any of the auto parts store(s) that will read prius codes?
If its the Converter/Inverter, do you know what codes are generated that indicate a problem with it? You would think that Toyota would engineer these components a bit more robust from being affected by a simple battery change.
The MFD shows that all systems are still [OK] in Diagnostic Mode. (??) I'm wondering if the car has to actually start and run in order for a new fault or code to be set. ...or if a code reader will even read a diagnostic code if the system shows [OK] on the MFD....

 

Hi Patrick,
Thank You! You got me thinking about the 'full' operational positions of reinstalling the Traction Battery Service Plug.
I though the two small pins on the Service Plug "engage" when the lever is pushed 90 degrees down. I had simply forgotten the 3rd position, which is to slide the entire lever "Downward" as the final motion to engage the two small pins for the "Low-Voltage Interlock Loop".
It took about 3 power-ON-cycles to get the car to "realize" that the Service Plug Interlock Loop was made, with each try, I heard more relays clicking-in, especially from within the Traction Battery. At this point, all the warning lights went out, the "READY" message appeared, the engine started and I was able to switch into Drive and Reverse.
Yahooo! What a relief!
Thanks again Patrick!
I also want to thank EdTheFox5, nh7o and HTMLSpinnr for earlier help and correspondence.
regards,
Mark