I have posted seperately about my 'supposed' dead HV dead battery. The charge was down to one bar and the the system didn't allow ICE to start for recharge. I finally got a reading of a about 207 volts today and when I fiddled with the start button on and off a few time today, the ICE started. After about 15 sec. it indicated it was pumping juice into the battery. When it finally got up to about 4 bars it turned off. I had to move the car off the tow dolly (it's home for the past week) and did so in electric mode even though there was a Ready on the display the engine never came on. Before manouvering it around much I tried to get the ICE to start again to recharge the battery, now down to 2 bars. By pressing the gas in park and nuetral, it would start and rev up but never generatated any power to the battery. Fiddled around with the power button some on/off/on, etc. until I got the ready light and sometimes it would start charging but only once did it charge to 6 bars and usually stopped as soon as there were 4 bars. Doesn't seem normal to me. Although, in my gen1 the battery seems always be full unless I run it down in stealth driving. I don't have an operators manual for the gen2 and I'm not sure I understand all I don't know about the Power Button. After putting the key fob in the slot, I press the button and its green indicator light comes on. I get a whole string of symboles on the dash and the MFD come on. However, before I can get a Ready light, it seems I have to turn the button off and on again before the symboles go away and I get the ready light. Then and only then can I shift into D or R. If I get the ICE to start by pressing the gas pedal, I would think it would be charging?? No indication of that. Also there doesn't seem to be any corrolation between the displayed SOS and the actual when I read it at the battery terminal. One bar on MFD and meter reads 207 vdc, while 4 bars will read 220 on meter with ICE charging. What is going on here or what don't I understand about this charging issue?? Steve
what if you put it in drive, foot on the brake and press the gas? i don't think it charges in neutral.
That did it!! Seemed a bit 'counter-intuative but it works. And came to full charge in about 20 mins. Checked charge SOS at the battery termials and got 237 vdc. Now to figure out what is drawing down the accessory battery. I think it must be the damaged hatch back that won't close completely. I see the "door ajar" and "hatch open" indicator on now. Any idea where that hatch close switch or sensor is located?? Steve
i assume it's part of the mechanism, but don't know for sure. if the hatch light isn't on, what would draw down the battery? how old is the battery and what voltage is it starting at?
Steve, I believe the hatch closed switch is in the lock mechanism. In your post you do not mention putting your foot firmly on the brake pedal to get the car to ready mode as this is required. Without putting your foot on the pedal the first push of the start button gives the use of the radio the second push is accessory mode a third push will turn off. A single push with your foot on the brake will give you ready mode. John (Britprius)
I'm (slow) and slowly figuring these things out. A owners manual would have covered all of that but I still appreciate the opportunity to share my learning progress with you all. I also notice that if I lock the car with the smart key and later walk by it, it unlocks and beeps at me. Kool! Or at least that what I assume is suppose to be happening. Steve
it actually shouldn't unlock unless you touch the door handle. do you know what package# it is? if it has sks, you shouldn't have to put the fob in the slot to start it.
I had believed that (foot off brake) one push gives you accessory mode (which isn't much more than the radio, admittedly) and a second push is KOEO (Key on, engine off) mode. A third push either turns the car off (no brake pedal) or brings it to full READY (foot on brake). That second push without the brake is how we are encouraged to do such things as listen to the radio, in order to avoid discharging the 12 battery.
The car's interior cabin lights should come on when the Smart system detects the fob in range. However the car should not unlock or beep unless you place your hand at a front door handle or the hatch opening switch. Is it possible that your fob unlock button is stuck? Whomever is encouraging you to use two pushes without the brake pedal is wrong unless your intention is to place a heavy drain upon the 12V battery. If you want to listen to the radio, starting from IG-OFF, use one push without the brake pedal to enter ACC-ON mode. Two pushes puts you into IG-ON mode which will quickly drain the 12V battery.
As for your trunk, that latch can pivot, so you cannot close the trunk. You can pivot it to the right position with a screwdriver. Now, you had better check your 12V good as the trunk being open runs down the 12V and causes starting problems....and eventual HV problems.
