Is there any reason I should not slow charge my 12V from the front jumping location? It just seems simpler and quicker to get to, plus the cabin is not left open for the cord. Any particular considerations?
I see no reason why you shouldn't. I plan to use those points for supplying my 230V~ inverter with 12V until I find a better solution to get some electricity in my recently bought garage...(which is devoid of electricity, windows, water, etc.)
I wouldn't use the front jumps to hook up an Inverter. It was not designed to do that. You have an extra 10 feet of wire and if you blow that 100 amp integral fuse in the fuse box there its a hassle to replace it. Keep it short as possible and as big as possible dc leads right to the 12 volt in the back.
No reason not to use the front jump point for slow charging. Whenever you attach the charger limit it to 4A maximum.
You might want to consider a solar charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter/aux 12v outlets. Also, you may want to consider an Odyssey PC-680 dry cell battery ($114 from Amazon) if you're in the market for a new 12v cell.
The 12 volt outlets are not connected with the car off so the solar charger will not work if using these outlets. The Odyssey battery is way over priced. You can get a golf cart/mobility battery of the same size and and deep cycle use with 22 amp/hr capacity instead of 16 amp/hr for around 1/3 of the price.
Hmmm...I don't understand; what are they connected to? I am new to the Prius world so let me know where I am mistaken. Also, please provide a link to the battery you mentioned.
The 12 volt outlets are only connected in ready or accessory mode. For the batteries look for 12 volt mobility batteries on Ebay. Or golf cart batteries. Lots of sizes to choose from and they are all AGM deep cycle batteries. I use a 60 amp/hr capacity to run my Prius exactly the same dimensions as the OEM battery with 50% more capacity.
My currentdraw would be 5-10A or so, just to have some light in my dark garage. I wouldn't be doing this to get the full 600W from my inverter! I have considered adding an extra output on my 80A amplifier-fuse on the battery, but haven't found the right plug to do this. In an old car I used a Speakon speakerplug for this (rated at 30A per contact, 4 contacts, so safe for up to 60A (+12V and GND) and I did use it to run a 500W watercooker on said inverter, eventually probably helped cause the premature death of the 55A Peugeot alternator) If I take it from under the bonnet, I can face the car with the exhaust away from the garage AND lock it while in ready mode (second key), so no fear of people stealing it. I agree on the hassle of blowing the fuse, but I think it is highly unlikely I will blow it with my intended useage. So until I do blow it and find you guys to be right the advantages outweigh the disadvantages for me.
Anderson type connectors should work. Three models, rated at 50A, 125A, 175A, crimp or solder them to the wire.
Thanks, I know them, but I'd rather have something build into e.g. the cover of the battery instead of 'lying around'. The Speakon below would probably work, but since it is not its intended use, you always run the risk someone will misuse it... In my old car it was hidden away under the seat, so I risked it. (My brother had his graduation party (~1980) at home and a 4x3x4' folded horn type speaker that my dad bought in the 60's was going to be used for music. Unfortunately the guy that had build it had used a 220V~ plug and the matching socket on the tube-amp driving it all. Someone spotted the 220V~ plug lying around and plugged it into the wallsocket . )
Thanks to all for this information. I thought it would be ok but wanted to check. An interesting side note. Checking the unloaded voltage with the display indicated .4 volts less than checking with a volt meter at the jump point. I wouldn't have thought there would be that much difference running a minimal load in the acc state.
I have found by checking a number of Prius cars the voltage on the MFD to be out by as much as .5 volt varying from car to car, and this is why I have always advocated the MFD should only be used as a base for reference. In other words you know it under reads by .4 volt and can use that information in the future to check the battery rather than taking the reading as gospel. John (Britprius).