So I was planning the trifecta: change engine oil change transaxle oil and get a sample change airfilter I had all the tools, supplies and parts and headed over to the auto-shop on base. I show up and 'sorry, our lifts are down, can you come back next week?' . . . I should have. No problem, I'll just raise the car onto jack stands and 'get dirty.' At least I won't be at risk of a rain shower predicted that afternoon (showers never showed up!). So I raise the car and gingerly remove the fasteners, several are gone and one obviously broken. Still no problem so I fetch the oil capture pan. But I didn't realize as I walked the length of the bay holding it by one hand that it was leaving a trail. . . . Ok, dry-sweep it up. The drain plug was very, very firm. So rolling off the creeper to get a good angle, UGH, it is loose. I began to suspect the Toyota Service Center let the 'gorilla' mechanic do the last one. No problem, capturing the oil. Now to replace the oil filter. None of the shop wrench worked . . . none! All I was doing was reshaping the cap. But the guy in the next bay was replacing his lower ball joints using hammers, power tools, and Marine vocabulary. So I picked up the ball-peen and a punch and with persistence and taps, after two revolutions, I could remove it. Replacing the filter was easy enough and with the new "O" ring, back together again. Ok, I then started to work on the transaxle oil but was looking on the wrong side. I could not open the Allen plugs and that was a good thing. I'll go back when the lifts are working and bring my tools. But gosh I was disappointed. I still have to replace the air filter but this can be done anytime. So my 'lesson learned' is have a hammer and punch. That will free the grip of the oil filter cap. Bob Wilson
A man had a diesel Jetta that wouldn't run and after exhausting all options, visited the local shade-tree mechanic. He looked it over and said,"I'll fix it for $101." Not having many options, he said,"Ok but I only pay if it works." The mechanic fetched a heavy tool box, opened the hood, and took out a huge sledge hammer. Before the man could say 'boo' . . . BLAM the hammer came down and the mechanic said,"Start the car." Sure enough, the engine started right up and the man got out to pay the bill but asked,"Why the $101?" The mechanic said,"Well the $1 is for the hammer blow and the $100 is for knowin' what to hit." Bob Wilson
The AST tools TOY 640 oil filter wrench is totally worth the $20 or so at Amazon. Makes it so easy to get off the filter cap on our Corolla and Prius.
The Snap-On version has better grips than the AST tools version. http://image.snapon.com/international/pdf/ofwtoy3kt_npa.pdf
Hey Bob, I actually used a magnetic carpenters level on top of my Prius to make sure it was level when jacked up. I made a mess, but all the WS fluid went in and in the right amount. Nothing like trying to complete the "Trifecta" before thunderstorms are due to show up. Fun stuff.
Besides a 64 mm socket I have on hand an over sized vise-grip, purpose built for clamping on various diameters of oil filters. I've never had to use it for that purpose, mainly use it on stubborn pickle jars, LOL. Also have a tradional band clamp style wrench. With the latter if you get it a bit wet and sprinkle pumice grit on the inside it will really grab.
My concern for Bob is that after hitting the cap, he may have compromised its structure. It is known that plastic caps will sometimes shatter if the wrong tools are used for removal.
I am not too worried about the cap. Worse comes to worse, I'll order a replacement from the Toyota parts counter. Bob Wilson
That will handle front/back. What about lateral or is it not as important? I went by the auto shop and the lifts are still 'down' pending inspection. So my alternative is to four-point lift . . . not something I'm looking forward to. Thanks, Bob Wilson
^ I never thought of lateral being an issue. I use the front jack point with a floor jack, put in two safety stands, then 'round the back and repeat. As long as you have left and right safety stands on the same notches, and your slab is more-or-less level. While for the rear support points I follow the Owners Manual, the front support points do seem flimsy to me, like a knife edge. I put the front stands inboard more, at the front end of the longitudinal rib. It's about a foot inward from the rocker panel lip. Here's a pic, the red circled zones: