Brake/!/ABS/VSC continuing problem...

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Rapid Dog, Jan 24, 2014.

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  1. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog Member

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    maybe just the sensor?...hmmm....
     
    #41 Rapid Dog, Jan 30, 2014
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    If you want to DIY this issue further, I suggest you subscribe to techinfo.toyota.com so you can obtain the repair manual pages relevant to this and see what is required to test the sensor, etc.
     
    #42 Patrick Wong, Jan 30, 2014
  3. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I'm wondering if the orange plug in the back of the hv battery might be loose or the contact has a problem? Try to remove it and put it back in? I got U0100 today as I was playing with the orange plug in the back.
     
    #43 JC91006, Jan 30, 2014
  4. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog Member

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    Where's the orange plug located?
     
    #44 Rapid Dog, Jan 30, 2014
  5. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    It's on the HV battery. Looking at it when you open your trunk/hatch. It's on the left hand side of the hv battery. If you remove it, it disconnects all power from the hv battery. When you take it out, make you sure put it back in correctly. There is a Lever that flips up 90 degree to put it in place, but after that you would have to press down on the lever to lock it.

    Take out the plug and look at the contacts, make sure they are all clean. I believe that's not your problem but it's free to try.
     
    #45 JC91006, Jan 30, 2014
  6. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog Member

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    Not doubting but is this advisable?
    I'll check the connection for sure either way.
     
    #46 Rapid Dog, Jan 30, 2014
  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Since the car is able to become READY and can be driven, the orange safety interlock on the left side of the traction battery is not the issue. However if you want to remove it and reinstall it, just do that when the car is IG-OFF.
     
    #47 Patrick Wong, Jan 30, 2014
  8. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog Member

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    Today I had no problem at all. I can tell that the ABS and traction control are working since I took it to the mechanic yesterday. When the lights where on, not so.
    The 12v battery diagnostic is still 2.8 on On and 13.8v in Start.
    Fingers crossed.
     
    #48 Rapid Dog, Jan 30, 2014
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  9. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog Member

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    Well, it's been over a week and no lights are coming on. Everything works as it should.
    Don't want to jinx it but, after securing the 12V battery connection and having the mechanic clear all the codes....I'm a happy camper.
    He spent a good 1/2 hour going thru all the menus and did a complete code clear.
    Maybe that's what it needed in the first place.
     
    #49 Rapid Dog, Feb 6, 2014
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  10. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Did the dealer do the original install on the 12v battery? I'm glad it's all working out.
     
    #50 JC91006, Feb 6, 2014
  11. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog Member

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    Yes, I'm afraid they did.
    And that poorly spliced positive cable that caused the original problem they told me I needed to replace at $1400?...it was loose, they didn't bother to tighten the splice clamp...
     
    #51 Rapid Dog, Feb 6, 2014
  12. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    How much was the total repair bill from the dealer to solve this problem? Not $1400 right?
     
    #52 JC91006, Feb 6, 2014
  13. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog Member

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    $1400 was the quote to replace the entire left side wire harness because of the cut positive cable.
    $850 for the Harness
    $550 Labor
    ..and that was just so they could insure that the codes would not be caused by the harness in question.

    My otherwise charges where.
    First visit - $125 diagnostic plus a fan belt
    Second visit - $75 diagnostic (I complained) and a brake bleed
    Third visit - $175 diagnostic plus a $210 12V battery
     
    #53 Rapid Dog, Feb 6, 2014
  14. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    If it is possible, would you post a picture of the so called "splice" along with a view of the area the splice is in?

    Your case is not normal and would add to the knowledge base here on Prius Chat.

    I hope you don't have any problems in the future, but knowing that the wiring harness is damaged and has been spliced is really not a good point. It would be better imo to replace the harness as was suggested by Toyota. Yes, that is a expensive repair but you would have peace of mind knowing that you won't have to worry or deal with problems in that area in the future similar to what you have already experienced.

    Either way a picture of the splice and the area the splice is in would really help in this scenario.

    Best of luck to you.
     
    #54 dorunron, Feb 6, 2014
  15. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Which visit did they do the original splice work? I would ask for a refund of all the visits after the splice work was done. That work should be covered under a repair warranty, you shouldn't have to pay for their incompetence.
     
    #55 JC91006, Feb 6, 2014
  16. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog Member

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    I nearly opted to pay for the harness if it would indeed solve the problem.
    But when I asked to talk to the 'technician' and he told me that it would not guarantee anything other than eliminating the possiblity that the code was caused by the harness, I thought twice.
    I asked if they'd replaced the battery which turned out to be 7 years old. 'Not yet' was the answer.
    I said 'let's try that first and see what happens'...

    The splice is the aluminum positive 12V cable, cut about 4" from the plug end.
    I used an aluminum cable-specific splice clamp found at Lowe's hardware.
    I'd take a pic but it's already neatly bound with electrical tape which I'd have to remove.
    If I ever have to go back in that hole I'll post up a pic.

    The clamp is similar to this...
    [​IMG]
     
    #56 Rapid Dog, Feb 6, 2014
  17. Rapid Dog

    Rapid Dog Member

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    No, no, the splice was done before I bought the care, little did I know til many months later.
    Dealer had nothing to do with it.
    It was just taped together.
    I did a fix by using a U-clamp, in hindsight not the best way as it did loosen up, threw the codes, lights on, nearly wouldn't start. (see the first few posts).
    Now, after the dealer foray(s) I've got a purpose-specific clamp on the splice along with the new battery and all the codes have been cleared.
    I assume I was in some sort of trial and error loop with te ECU... ;)
     
    #57 Rapid Dog, Feb 6, 2014
  18. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    The splice though is of interest to me as this is not a normal thing.

    I am not asking you to un tape anything, just take a photo of the splice and the area where it is. But don't make a special effort at this point.

    Best of luck to you.
     
    #58 dorunron, Feb 6, 2014
  19. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    Thats a good clamp for executing the splice you suggest. You should have no future problems with that and $1400 to fix that is just unconscienable (I think thats how you spell it but, I am from KY :)).
     
    #59 usnavystgc, Feb 7, 2014
  20. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    I agree with Usnavystgc that clamp is more than adequate to splice the main cable. The current carried by that cable is small compared with a vehicle with a starter motor.
    If I were going to replace the cable I would not use an OEM Toyota, but replace the cable from the front jump point back to the battery with copper wire and some crimp or solder on ends. This would be a better and far cheaper solution to the OEM aluminium cable.

    John (Britprius)
     
    #60 Britprius, Feb 7, 2014
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