Prius breaks down 20 days after purchase... help!

I'd go with the used inverter and Toyota dealer install for a total of $1,500.
Dangerous/lethal voltages involved in and around the inverter- and if it takes Toyota 9hrs... it's can't be an easy job like changing the oil.

 

You don't say in your post where you are located, if you give out that information (city and state) perhaps someone here will know of a good independent shop who can help you fix your car.

 

i'm sorry you had trouble so soon, but that can happen to any car with 100,000 miles i would go with a used inverter and search for shops who might do it cheaper or diy if you feel comfortable after reading the service manual. search here for inverter threads, all the best!

 

1) it is very rare for the inverter to go out. You need to verify if your inverter coolant pump is working first because that's the most likely reason your inverter failed. You do this by turning the car on and verifying coolant flow in the inverter reservoir.
2) The inverter is really pretty easy to replace. You can DIY. I see tons of inverters on Ebay for less than $250. Even if you screw it up the first time, you can order another one and spend less than $500.

 

how old is the 12v battery?
and did you happen to get an oil change recently?

i think its either your 12v or the oil may have been overfilled. it cant be over the full line.

your codes seem more like confusion from bad signal than something major failing. if it was the inverter, i would assume you would see hv inverter voltage/amparage error codes.

 

Good point V8Cobrakid. Check the easy stuff first. After a closer look, I also believe it is the 12V battery.

 

Just so you know, dealers are notorious for telling you you have a good 12V battery when you don't. Remember, they want to upsell you on service. The first thing you need to do is get it away from them. Then you need to test your 12V battery and replace if necessary.

 

with a prius 12v its better to replace it than guess.

i asked about oil lvl because if its too full it will end up in the intake which will stall the car due to wrong pressure till its mooped up. (potentially damaging the battery in the process from too much drain from failed starts)

my other possible idea was fuel pump but i think that would have more codes too

dealer should be accurate... they have pretty extensive readouts. like i said, i would think the inverter would throw more codes if it was the problem.

i just replaced my hv battery for 650. anything less seems like a deal at this point

 

for a quick 12v test. with the car in accessory mode (1 power button push with no brake applied)... are the windows quick or are they slow? how about more than one window at the same time

or turn on and off the car while keeping the doors shut

 

P0A0F engine failed to start (Due to no fuel?)
P0A7A Generator Inverter Performance (Many causes, need to get the "INF" data as well. Could be overheating due to coolant pump failure.)
P3000 HV Battery malfunction (A general code meaning other things have failed. Possibly the battery drained after the engine ran out of fuel.)
P3193 Fuel Run Out (This is a smoking gun, if you ask me. Was the tank low?)

C1241 Abnormal Battery voltage (This ABS code can appear due to bad 12V battery)
C1259 HV System Regen Malfunction (Something is wrong somewhere else)
C1300 Malfunction in HV System (More general "the sky is falling" messages)
C1377 Capacitor Malfunction (This is especially diagnostic of bad 12V battery)

The tire codes mean that a couple of the pressure sensors in the wheels are not responding. Check you tire pressures in any case.

The "transmission codes" ? The Transaxle codes are all in the PXXXXX group. I don't see those codes anywhere in the service manual. The C group is "Chassis".

I think you are getting the right advice so far. What ever you do, don't be "at the mercy of the dealer". There are some that are good, but many techs have very little experience with the Prius and don't know how to troubleshoot. You are not yet assured of inverter failure.

Once you have really made sure of the 12V quality, all connections tight, including the bolt to the body (which corrodes a bit over time), then make sure the inverter coolant pump is running (turbulence in the reservoir). And make sure there is fuel in the tank!

 

Could be a 12 v battery and the coolant inverter pump!!
Check that first.

 

if its not the 12 volt battery Id start looking for a short in the wiring harness with all the codes in different parts of the car at once....has it been wrecked? did you run a carfax?

 

The gas meter could be off, there have been mention of people running out of gas with 2 pips remaining.

Fill the car up before changing the battery, then the entire system will reset itself when you put the battery in.

SM-N900P ?