More trouble, help appreciated. I was driving along and the p-lock warning came up for about 1/2 second and immediately changed to (!), ABS, VSC, and brake lights. Turned the car off and back on, but still there. Checked fuses and relays associated with ABS system with an ohmmeter. The fuses were good, the little relays had 105 ohm, and the bigger ones 84 ohm coils. I didn't energize them, but there N.O. contacts were open and the N.C. contacts (smaller) were closed. Brake fluid is near max line. I discovered my scan tool can't read brake codes so I did the jumper of pins 4 and 13 of the odb port trick. Initially had the following blink codes. It's a pain reading these. Surprisingly I can't find a list of these here or anywhere else. Anyone one have a decoder ring? Drink more ovaltine or buy a new car? (!) ABS VSC 36 33 43 56 39 45 59 53 62 63 Tapped the brake pedal 8 times within 5 seconds to reset. This cleared some codes, but now have the following. I suspect these are the root error codes, the rest come from driving around. (!) ABS VSC 36 33 43 Disconnected the battery for 20 minutes, but lights are still there. I'll need to find out how to get the driver window auto down to work again, but thats minor. By the way the car drives fine and regens. I've recently had the following two adventures with my car. I mention the p-lock issue because I briefly saw it before brake lights. Also I dressed the battery terminals with dielectric grease and had sparks while messing with the battery terminals. The rear axle bushings and new tires obviously exposed the wheel speed sensors the disruption. We had strong rain a few days ago and maybe water got into a connector or sensor. /!\ Caution The transmission P lock mechanism is abnormal | PriusChat Rear axle carrier bushings | PriusChat Does anyone know if the car can pass inspection like this. My guess is no. 2005 with nav. 145k
Good work. Now the next step is just to look up the troubleshooting steps that go with them. You must not be counting techinfo.toyota.com as "anywhere else." You'll find them in volume 1 of your service manual there. The reason you don't easily find short decoder-ring versions is they wouldn't be very useful. (Sometimes if you have a scan tool, it will show the codes with little one-liner descriptions that help you about as much as a fortune cookie would.) When you look them up in volume 1 you'll find a page number next to each one, and when you turn there you'll find anywhere from one to eight or ten pages or so of checks you can make to find out what triggered that code. That's the useful stuff. Cheers, -Chap
1. Check the right rear speed sensor for damage or a bad wiring harness connection. 2. What is the voltage across the 12V battery when the car is IG-OFF?
Problem fixed. It was the right rear wheel bearing hub. The hub includes the sensor. Apparently the sensor gets destroyed when the bearing goes. I took it to my local garage. Part $292.48 Labor $110.50 I've only got one original bearing left. Thanks Patrick for telling me where to look.