Hi PC'ers, I have lurked on here for a long time and appreciated your insights and tips. The hatch on my 2007 Gen 2 is completely unresponsive when I lock / unlock the doors either manually from the door switch or via the smart key fobs. The locks on the other four doors respond as they should and I replaced batteries in the fobs last week. I have examined the hatch lock and even removed it from the car to see if anything looks wrong but all appears normal. The wires leading off of the lock are in fine shape and harnessed as they should be, at least as far as I can see them from the hatch area. Many Gen-2 owners have had problems with the rubber on the outside of the hatch deteriorating -- no issues there, but I can't seem to find other threads with my same problem because "nonfunctional hatch" leads me to threads about this rubber deterioration issue or else ones about the key fobs. As a stop-gap solution, I have tied a cable to the emergency release in the hatch lock, snaked it through the back seat, and connected a carabiner to the other end. I can duck in and pop the hatch by tugging on the cable, but it's annoying. I'm wondering if I inadvertently disabled the hatch lock somehow. Any ideas for DIY solutions before I bring it in? There's no warranty on the vehicle. Thanks in advance!
I can only open the hatch mechanically, by pulling on the emergency release lever embedded in the latch. It is completely nonresponsive to door lock/unlock commands. The small, square external lock button on the outside of the hatch *does* work, but only for the four doors (not the hatch). Yes, I'm thinking it's an electrical problem unless the latch somehow lost its ability to receive the signal from the wires attached to it. My initial impulse in posting this (and reason why I hadn't checked the voltage yet) was because my guess was I had disabled the hatch somehow, like bumped some childproof lock switch (not that a rear hatch would need such a thing) or accidentally pressed the fob buttons too long and changed their signal, etc., and PC would immediately know the fix for that. Sounds like that isn't the case.
Here's the wiring diagram I have. If you can tell which terminals are 3 and 4 on the motor, try putting 12V across it and see if it operates. If it works, there's a problem with the ECU or wiring.
Thanks, but we're operating just out of my depth. I understand fuses and basic wiring, and I do have a multimeter to check voltage, etc., but I don't know where terminals 3 and 4 are located (unless we're talking about something labeled "3" and "4" in the fuse box) and I don't know how to "put 12V across" them -- I'm guessing you mean connect wires to a 12V battery and touch the terminals? Sorry.
Thanks, but we're operating just out of my depth. I understand fuses and basic wiring, and I do have a multimeter to check voltage, etc., but I don't know where terminals 3 and 4 are located (unless we're talking about something labeled "3" and "4" in the fuse box) and I don't know how to "put 12V across" them -- I'm guessing you mean connect wires to a 12V battery and touch the terminals? Sorry.
Yes, I'm talking about using a jumper from a 12V DC source to the motor terminal on the latch (#4 above). Numbers might not be physically marked on it. One might have to go by wire colors. Another good thing to check would be continuity to from terminal #3 to ground.